RallyKeith

The light only goes on when it senses a problem. If the problem goes away the light goes off with no resetting required. So, if the light is on there is a problem. Best thing to do is stop by a Major Autoparts store like AutoZone and have them read the code. They should be able to do it for free.

If you buy your Stereo from Crutchfield ( http://www.crutchfiled.com ) it will come with everything you need to install it, including detailed instructions. All Subarus need is the wiring harness. To istall that it's just a matter of hooking up like colored wires to one another. This may require a $15 wire stripper and crimper from your local hardware store. Other than that it's just a matter of popping the dash trim off, undoing a few screws and then reversing it all with the new stereo. All of which Crutchfield shuld tell you how to do. Check out their site and feel free to call them and talk to them. Once you consider the things like the free wiring harness and instructions they seem to have the best prices. Keith

Just a thought for you. Most cars made since the late 80's have a "Fuel Cut" in them for accidents. A device somewhere sees a big enough shock and it kills power to the fuel pump. This is most likely what the box is you are searching out and it probably has nothing to do with overboost. If I remember correctly from what I read years ago the ECU senses the overboost and shuts down Injectors. Also, I believe the ECU senses the overboost based on readings from the MAF based on RPM. Keith

Yup, I've found the same thing in the past when looking in easern PA. BUT, don't forget that the slaughter-matic isn't a true 50:50 all time AWD like the 5spd is. That makes a difference in the overall feel of the car. The Automatics I'v driven feel much more like a FWD car, where as the Manual cars always feel like a solid AWD. Keith

Maybe try going to a local dealership and have them program a new remote to your car and try that first. Hopefully they will have one that they can use to test this sort of thing. With all the abuse the transmitter sees I would expect it to give you problems before any of the brains. Keith

I beileve we had a heated discussion on the ADBV and it is not to keep oil in the filter, it is to keep oil in the Engine. The oil and oiling system is the single most important thing when it comes to making an engine last, so I'd spend the extra $2

I just did three cars using a sets bought at my local parts store. It's made by Fel-Pro and was very nice. The seals were high quality rubber and it came with all the little bolt washer seals. The entire kit was something like $25. I see no reason not to use it. There are lots of parts that the Dealer just charges too much for, and for something as basic as a valve cover seal I'd need to see some real hard evidence against aftermarket to not use them. Keith

http://www.car-parts.com is just a listing service. Lots of different junkyards list on there. Sorry to hear it's the 2.5 They are much harder to come buy due to lots of differences through out the years. Keith

I'm not sure about your particular year, but most of the engines do have hydraulic valve lifters. Depending on how the car was treated, and the oil in it, you could be having an issue with a lifter not inflating. If that is the case it could be caused by a combination of things, including sludge buildup in the the lifter from previous poor maintainence, and oil that is too heavy, which in Maine doens't necissarily mean they put the wrong oil in. As stated by someone else, the engines call for 5w30 as a year round oil weight. For some reason, my subaru dealer puts 10w30 in all of their cars. Also, these hydraulic lifters are fairly small little things( about the same diameter as a AAA battery but half the height), with very small openings to get the pressurized oil in them. If the oil wasn't changed at proper intervals before you bought it, sludge and dirt could have built up in the lifter to cause it to no longer want to inflate. So, as you can see it could be a combination of things that was agrivated by the oil change. As for possible damage, there isn't anything to worry about. I drive about 90 miles each way to work and I've been driving with this noise on and off for about a month. I actually just fixed it for good tonight. In my case the engine has 170,000 miles on it, and the lifter was just bad, and wouldn't inflate at all. Luckily they are easy to get at, and I have spare motor lying around that I could steal one from. So, since it only happened after the dealer did the oil change it's not a bad idea to take it back to them, and it shouldn't be a problem to continue driving it until the weekend. To be safe I would suggest trying not to rev the engine really high unless you have too. Worse case, if you can't get to the dealer, or the dealer isn't willing to do anything, adding some Marvel Mystery oil (as reccommended on the bottle) to your engine oil may resolve it. Marvel MYstery Oil had some detergents in it and it also thins out the oil just a bit. Another Brand of magic mixture like this is called Sea Foam. Same basic thing. God Luck, post back here with your results. Keith

Biggest difference is Size. The Legacy is flat out bigger. More cargo area and more rear seat leg room are the two big things that are noticable. Other than that the drivelines and engines are all basicaly the same. There are even common parts in things like the brakes.

Well, the other thing is that I live in a bit of a battery capitol. I live in viewing distance of Exide's original plant (still running, still poluting) and 25 minutes away from a Deka Battery Plant. Exide was the company involved with the Sears thing, and I just hate exide. I think after that Sears dropped exide, but since there are so many other choices, I just stay away. Bottom line, if it works it works.

Personally, I wouldn't buy the Sears. One of the reasons why: http://myfloridalegal.com/newsrel.nsf/newsreleases/AB074ADBA39A36E28525674B00459DEA (It was a big thing in the news a few years ago, but this was one of the first links that came up when I searched in Goggle) I've been going to Advance Auto for my battereis lately, and I've been Very impressed. They test my system for free, and then install it for free. Plus they seem to have good prices on strong batteries. Keith

Good to know. My only knowledge is from my '04 Impreza. Sounds like things changed somewhere in between. Keith

1st off, I don't think you are supposed to hold the button. 2nd, You have to press once to unlock the driver's door and press immediately again to unlock the remaining doors. Is there a chance that you just aren't pressing it soon enough? It could actually be a combination of the two things. If you hold the button too long the receiver may not process the command until it sees the button is released, and therefore the sequence isn't occouring fast enough. Try two short pushes of the button from a reasonable distance and see how that goes. Keith

Not if you put the car in gear and use the parking brake. That's how I do mine. With the belt on.

http://www.rallylights.com The biggest Hella Dealer on the east coast and probably two days max Shipping time to VA. Keith

Yeah, it's as simple as he said. If you want to help get the relatively thick fluid out faster you can jack up the front end of the car to tilt the diff back, but to fill the car should be sitting on level ground.

I'm not familiar enough with that car, but what is the boost pressure supposed to be? In other words I'm not sure if it's overboosting sometimes, or under boosting sometimes. Either way it sounds like something with the wastegate control. Have you ever driven the car with the windows down while this happens? I'm wondering if maybe you have an intermittant exhaust leak before the turbo that would cause it not to build up enough boost. Just throwing things out there to think about. Keith

Some more information on your car would be helpful. Year, model designation (WRX, WRX RA, WRX STi....) Also, is it only when in a specific gear? Keith

AH! That's right. I knew, I knew the name. I'll most likely be out there for the Dec. 5th event, but I probably won't get there until noon. I'll be using it as a testing ground for a new suction cup camera mount I'm buying. Keith

So refresh my memory... which one of you is Ben Roth and did you enjoy the autocross? There is a Ben Roth driving an XT-6 listed in the results for the BMR region autocross this past weekend, and I know I know that name. Help an overworked man remember someone! (PS, you took 3rd overall in PAX times, and the times are up on our website http://www.bmr-scca.org ) I'm the rally director for that region and usually attend every event, but I was at a rally in Canada this weekend and couldn't make it. Keith

I think it's a direct swap, but you may have to use the 1.8 intake due to some differences in the sensors. Do some searching on here as I believe some of this was discussed recently. Keith

Uh yeah, so what kind of car, or more importantly what motor and year are we talking about hear? It is a well documented fact that reading the dipstip on certain engines is difficult. On many of the motors the dipstick comes in at a steep angle which makes for wide variation on the reading from one side to the other because of skining. Also, oil can lay in the dipstick tube and get on the stick as it is pulled out. There are several threads on here about this and it is common. I would say there is a 90% chance your oil level is fine and you are just having common issues with reading it. Keith

Does it go away if you are on the brakes or is it there all the time? Keith

Is the Tranny/rear diff the ones that came with the car? They made a change to the final drive ratio and it almost sounds like you could have a mismatch in final drive ratio. Keith