Petersubaru

for those who have been following my problem... I went to the subaru dealer and mentioned I installed a new coolant sensor and new thermostat with no change ...(the fans just keep on turning)...off the start the mechanic in training said most likely the A/C fluid could be low and would also make the fans to run continously...a few minutes later after useing his laser temp gun, he returned and said the problem was the thermostat, which was slightly closed, thus causeing both cooling fans to stay on and being able to keep the temperature at normal.... also, what complicated the situation is the replacement of the thermostat...I went from one "slightly closed" thermostat to another mal-functioning thermo right out of the box...well, that makes 3 subaru thermostats all from different places for the year (22K mi), but all is well now...

I wonder if there is some truth to the above statement because the previous owner of my car said that at the first spark plug change there some leakage already at 30K mi...now at 60K they definitely need changing

...I have had a problem with the ngk's ..brand new out of the box

You'd would think the person who did the headgasket would have put in new "well" seals???...anyway, I will be doing mine next week...its not that bad to do..remove the stuff to get at the plugs...4 plug "well" seals, 2 valve cover seals and 10 washers for the valve cover bolts and maybe some new plugs

I just attempted to test the unit..unable to do it with my equippment..a tight spot

A new twist and my mistake..I thought the fans were running continuously..But only in the driveway ...But when driving on the road the fans go out and I know this to be because within 2 seconds of stopping at the corner, the fans are back on..it has to be a rather quick stop to determine the fans coming back on

Thanks Cougar, but I think it will become only more confusing since the running temp of the newer cars are 170F...rockauto.com has a sensor for $14..

I couldn't find any info either...perhaps a new relay and sensor fix the problem

I will give CTS a check..also they are cheap to just replace it

I would say that I am sure no air pockets in the system ...nothing has changed or been touched since last here and I just recently returned from a 5000mi trip

Sorry, 01,2.5L, Outback,60K Miles...having performed 3 coolant changes..this problem also happens intermittently

the coolant is full, and the AC is turned off, but when the dash temp gauge reaches normal temps, both cooling fans will start to operate..the problem is, they will not turn off...could the "coolant temp sensor" cause this without the engine "check" light coming on

I think it would be easier to change the intake gasket first especially if they have not been done for a long time (maintenance item)..also hopefully the stud(s) won't break as you are trying to undo them

certainly not scientific here...over the years I have had several headgasket leaks, but none that pumped water into the cylinder..Also I have had one intake gasket with a small hole in it which did as you described...a lot more volume of water can be sucked in through intake

Would anybody know what replacement product has taken the place of the GM "top end cleaner"(no longer manufactured) that Subaru recommended to use

Most likely the very small rubber "0" ring will have to replaced on the cam carriers..the seal helps to maintain good oil pressure..sorry, I just saw this was already covered

Sounds like my situation exactly

summer and winter wheels are both alloy..you wonder what else has rust on it??....well, you can see the rust oozing out thru the caliper stud holes, and I suppose this is to be expected since the car sat outside for a year or so in very damp weather... also I think there is rust behind the rotors thus pushing it out and creating a feel at the pedal of warped rotors ...according to the mechanic (dealership) he said all 4 rotors are warped and is more like a nuisance then a safety issue, ...one wheel/rotor has no free play(spin) at all...I wonder what would happen if a panic stop would occur at 75mph

how thick, I don't know, but it is more then oxydation on metal and I can feel it with my nail plus the wheel itself has crud build up...the problem of crud build up increases rapidly when changing wheels between summer and winter and back to summer wheels

Thankyou

I have found sites that mention cleaning the mateing surfaces of the hub/rotor/wheel, but no real reason is given as to "why" this must be done...my son-law is being a bit of an a** and insists that I am being overly cautious and thinks that tightening the wheel nut "tighter" is an easier solution then removing the corossion...now every 200miles there is one nut that seems to loosen up..

I looked underneath and I am glad to say that it is "bone" dry and very clean on either side of the head along the head gasket

Sorry..definitely more info was needed..the older gen subi was taken care of by simply adding the subaru coolant conditioner..However my question earlier was regarding my '01 2.5 outback with 60,000miles..it has been so many years with the older subarus of adding coolant, that I don't even know what is normal, except that when asking other people with different makes of cars, that no coolant is ever added

just wondering if it is normal to add some coolant from time to time....the coolant was down about an "inch" below the line in the reservior after driving 5000 miles in the last 3wks

The main under dash fuse box has 12.68Vs coming in (same as the battery) with the key "on" but "not" having the car motor run...is it normal to have some of the individual wires leaving the fuse box to have only 12V or slightly more, while some others have the full battery voltage..for example the wire going to the coil/fuel pump has 12.3V and does not increase that much more when the alternator provides the power