Legacy777

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Please elaborate on the "growl" Is it coming from the intake, the motor....? Does it feel like it has similar power to other converted vans? Any other details will help in diagnosing.

How much are you wanting to spend? Do you want a bolt up type application, or do you want to get just a muffler and have a shop fab up the piping? You may want to ask your question in the legacy forums on nasioc http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

The subaru specific haynes or chiltons manuals don't tell you squat about the AC system. I would suspect you overcharged the system. On converted r12 to r134a systems, you should run about 75% of the original R12 refrigerant capacity. Did you do the conversion, or did someone else do it? Can you give details on what exactly was done? What pressures are you seeing? A book I would recommend is the Haynes Air Conditioning book. It's very good, and has a lot of info.

Personally....something like what you're talking about is not an item I would recommend a DIYer with limited experience to perform. I didn't even bother when I did my motor. Even if I would've done the heads myself, I probably would have still taken them to a machine shop to perform a valve job.

Please post the year and model vehicle you are having the issue with.

I don't really know of any one particular thing that could be a deal breaker. Anyone else with the 95-99 MY's have any other comments?

I'm sure it may exist on some of the newer subarus, however on the first gen legacies 90-94....I believe it only came on the 91 turbo model.

To be quite honest, the older transmissions just had a screen, and no filter. The screen is in the pickup piping. Usually they stay pretty clean unless your tranny is eating itself up....in which case replacing the screen is the least of your worries. I'd really just recommend draining the fluid without removing the pan. If you want to remove the pan, I'd recommend calling your local subaru dealer and see if they can decipher which one you're supposed to have. Typically they should be able to determine which one you need by the production date of the vehicle.

Does the compressor clutch engage when the ac button is depressed? If not, I think you're on the right track with the issue being electrical. BTW, the search engine requires a minimum of 4 letters to search. You can search for 3 letter things by using an astericks a/c* or 2 letter word by using two astericks *ac* However you're going to get A LOT of other stuff if you just use the search term *ac*. For that search to be effective, you should add another term.

Any chance of better pictures or larger pictures. I can't see squat in those pictures, so I really have no idea what the metal piece you're talking about is

I believe they were only on the 91 turbos, if my memory serves me correct.

If it's not on the body of the compressor, you'll have to drain/fill the oil out of the inlet/outlet ports.

That part is a clutch damper. There should be a line running from the clutch master cylinder to the damper, and then to the clutch slave cylinder. As to what exactly it does..other then "damp" something....I'm really not sure. I did not install the damper when I did my AWD & 5MT swap, and I don't really see an issue to not having it on there.

Glad I could help

Yup....they have some good vacation pics

The air control valve is the idle air control valve. To me, both of the codes retrieved wouldn't indicate/cause the problems you are having. I don't recall if this has been asked but are you aware that there is a bleed screw on the passenger side of the radiator that must be open to properly bleed the cooling system of air? If this has not been open, open it, and see how things go. However I'd probably suspect a headgasket or similar issue with the symptoms you described.

BINGO! And that's why I said you need to do the italian tune up every-so-often and run some fuel system cleaner. As for frequency of the italian tune up......depends on how much you drive.....every other week...once a week.

Nice before pictures. Keep us posted as things progress.

The R22 connector is under the rear seat on the passenger side. That scan is for the 90-94 legacies. As I mentioned, the low fuel light is triggered by a separate device on the older cars. It doesn't sound like that's the case for the newer cars....so the test procedure I posted probably won't work. Here's a pic of the fuel pump assembly http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/28/DCP_5290.JPG The thermister is the round silver looking thing attached to the bracket where the sender is located. Some additional pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/28/

The covers should either pop out, or there will be some screws or something to remove. Your best bet is to remove the fender liner so you can see behind the bumper. That'll tell you real quick what you need to do.

For your code retrieval process. It sounds right. The only thing that is a little odd is that the CEL did not blink a steady all clear when you connected the black diagnostic connectors only. Being that your ej22 is not turbo'd, that shouldn't change much....if anything it'll be easier.

You can do the head without pulling the motor, however it's a little more cramped. You're probably right about it being a valve type issue. The bottom ends tend to be pretty stout, but without removing the head, you really don't know. The CEL isn't going to be displayed because OBD1 ECU's are a little limited, and if the issues is mechanical, the ECU isn't going to really know that anything is wrong. Newer OBD2 ECU's that detect misfires on particular cylinders would probably have thrown a code. Just curious....how were you pulling the codes from the ECU? I've got instructions on my site www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html Also, here's some pics from my engine rebuild, which may give you some idea of how things are put together and confidence of doing the work yourself. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/

Yeah, that exhaust valve is toast. These engines tend to build up carbon if they don't get run hard every now and then. It's also a good idea to run fuel system cleaner every now and then.