Legacy777

Yeah, definitely check the battery and alternator. Even with a clogged cat (unless it's REALLY bad), the engine should run at idle.

Just want to add this bit of info. Not having the speedometer working will cause ALL sorts of weird problems. The car will not shift right, the AWD will not work properly, the engine coolant fans will be on all the time, as well as other odities. You MUST fix the speedometer before trying to diagnose any of the other issues. Maybe I wasn't too clear. Since you have an AWD vehicle, jack up the car so all four wheels are off the ground. Remove the speedometer cable from the base piece I show in the pic posted. Turn on the car, put it in drive, and the wheels should turn. While this is happening, look down at the speedometer base piece screwed into the front differential. Do you see anything spinning inside that thing? If not, remove the base piece, rubber and metal washer if they're still stuck in the hole. With that removed, now look down in that hole and see if you see the gear spinning. If you do, replace the base piece with a new one, reconnect the speedo, reset the ECU, and be on your merry way. if the gear inside the transmission does not move, things become more difficult. To replace that gear the front differential has to be removed from the transmission, which means the whole transmission needs to be removed. Thanks for the compliments on the swap. I actually just swapped in a turbo motor this past summer. I haven't had a chance to put it on the site yet. Here's all the pics if you care to look http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/

I don't think Subaru AWD systems are voodoo magic at all. They are pretty straight forward. Here's what I'd like you to do. Take the cars out in the snow or gravel, or where ever there is a slippery surface. Put the gear selector in the "1" position. Floor it, and have someone stand outside and watch the rear of the car. See if the rear wheels move. The reason I say to put the gear selector in the "1" position is because the TCU will up the torque split to near 50/50. Also, the 91 turbos came with a rear viscous LSD. So...both rear wheels "should" spin.

Just a note, don't ever cost with an automatic and the engine not running. The automatic trans get's its lubrication from the pump in the transmission. When the engine isn't running, it doesn't get lubricated. As for your circumstance....personally, I wouldn't bother with putting the car in neutral.

For the eleven billionth time....the manual switch does NOTHING to affect manually shifting the transmission. From my site Manual Button The manual button has some controversy as two what its function is. But I'm here to disavow any of those rumors. Firstly, the automatic transmission normally runs a power split of 90% front 10% rear. This is under normal driving conditions. Secondly, the manual button ONLY works when the shift lever indicator is in the positions "3" or "2". Ok, so you're ready to hear what this thingy does. It is a very primitive version of traction control. When the shift lever is either 3 or 2, and the manual button is depressed, it will keep the transmission from going into first gear. By doing this, you have less torque, more evenly distributed power, and a less chance to slip and slide around. So to recap, when the shift lever is in the 2 position the transmission stays in 2nd gear. When the shift lever is in the 3 position the transmission chooses between 2nd and 3rd gear. If the shift lever is any other position then the two above, the manual button does absolutely positively nothing.

What typically goes bad on the valve covers are the little grommets. When I replaced the the seals and grommets on my old motor, the seals looked great, but the grommets were more then likely what was leaking. I'd recommend you go to your local subaru dealer and buy 6 of the grommets, replace them and be done with it. You can choose to replace or not replace the rubber seals, that's up to you. But silicone isn't going to work here.

As I said...subaru transmissions are finicky. I ran the Valvoline dino oil and it sucks major arse.

Yeah....if you follow the brake lines, and see where they go into the cabin, there is another rubber grommet that has the ABS sensor wiring going to it.

Use a DVM to check the resistance on the plug wires. if they are not good...replace them. As for coil pack. Check the price with www.subarugenuineparts.com there are certain items, sensors, and electronics I'd recommend you go with OEM subaru stuff rather then aftermarket.

The first link is correct. However I don't have anything on the overseas Twin turbo motors. I'd suggest searching the conversions forum on NASIOC http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

I agree with everyone about the tune up and making sure all your normal wear items are in good condition. I had a random loss of power issue several years back that turned out to be a bad MAF sensor. It wasn't always under power, and was intermittant. Have you checked the ECU for codes? If not, read over the procedure on my site www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

1-3/4" is the turbine inlet diameter.

This is the closest thing I can get ya that might help http://www.driftquebec.com/legacy/1992_legacy.pdf It's for the overseas 92 legacy. We didn't get the 1.8 distributor engine for the Legacy here in the states.

Yeah the cat is a good thought. If the original poster can provide more details on the problem, that would help.

which dipstick are you checking? The one of the passenger side if the front differential fluid. The one on the driver's side is the ATF.

It'd probably be cheaper to find a used door, even if it is the wrong color because the body work to try and fix the door would probably be more or similar....and I'm not sure the results would be as good. You may want to post in the texas forums on nasioc http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

Yeah, that's the same idle air control valve.

Do a search, and I think you'll find the info you're looking for.

The pressure switching solenoid valve that I know of is on the passenger side strut tower, and used to open and close a line going to the pressure sensor so the ECU can read atmospheric pressure. Still not sure how that could cause your problems though.

The sunroof drains come down the side of the A-pillar. Are you sure the drains are clear and in tact.

So the engine runs fine at idle speed, but won't go above a certain RPM without running badly. Does the two minutes correspond to the engine temp gauge moving at all? I suspect the coolant temp sensor right now, but would like any more information you can provide.

Can do. I'll have to get you the info when I get home this evening.

There should be a bolt that holds it into place. However with time they get rusted in there. So you may need to squirt a lot of penetrating oil in there and try to gently tap it out.

The speedometer, you should be getting a check engine light for that. The base piece that screws into the transmission typically breaks. Remove it, jack the car up and look down into the hole and see if the piece rotates when the car is in drive and the wheels move. If it does, replace the base piece, and be on your way. Here's a pic & part # http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/speedocablebase.jpg I'd honestly start by fixing the speedo as other issues including the torque bind can be caused by not having the speedo. As for the tranny, you have torque bind. Do a search and you'll find lots of info. Fix the speedo, and then try these steps. First thing to do is make sure all four tires are the same brand and have similar wear, also check tire pressure. You can do some testing, insert a fuse in the FWD fuse holder to check and see whether the duty c solenoid is working. I'd also recommend changing the tranny fluid. That may help. If not, you could add a LSD clutch type additive. Not sure about the power issue without more specific info.

You mean a leak from your transmission? The ATF is red. So just look for any red colored fluid.