Legacy777

If you have any cracks on the belts...replace them. Use your best judgement. If a part looks like it needs to be replaced, replace it...especially if it's something cheap like a belt or hose.

Is it an AT or MT? I've got 2 pics of the AT injectors. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2521.JPG http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2522.JPG Not sure if that will help. I've got a complete set of them. They worked fine when I pulled them out to do my motor swap. The plastic on the top on one or two of them is a little cracked....but if you want them, I'd sell them to ya for cheap. Let me know.

If the MAF sensor housing is cracked, I'd seriously wonder if it's working correctly. Have you checked to make sure the timing is correct? You may want to verify that the timing marks on the crank sprocket & cam gears align with the corresponding marks. Not sure if you have a factory manual, if not this should help http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1992_FSM_(Engine_%26_Electrical)/ Also, I'd recommend checking out www.bbs.legacycentral.org too.

Replace your ATF every 30k. I don't care what the maintenance schedule says. That is the one most single thing you can do to prolong the life of your auto tranny. Rear & front diff fluid...change it every 30k or every 60k. You can't inspect the wheel bearings they're sealed. Don't worry about them. I will say this about the maintenance schedules....I personally feel they are only a guide. Some things they recommend are a little overkill...some things should be done more frequently.

What manual do you have? I can check my factory manuals when I get home and see if the 94 is some how different....I don't think it is...but I can check.

You probably don't have the injector seated all the way. Make sure it's seated all the way. It should snap/pop in. They're not the easiest to get in and out. Did it flood before you took it out? When you say it's flooding, is it leaking fuel on the engine, or how do you know it's flooding?

Do you know if it's a factory alarm or aftermarket alarm? It sounds like the alarm is autoarming itself. I haven't heard of any factory alarms that autoarm. If you can find out the make & model of the alarm, you could probably find instructions how to program it....plus maybe get a new remote.

Did you install them, or did someone else install them? There is a cone shape washer that goes between the upper spring seat and mount. If that is left off or installed incorrectly, the spring seat will not pivot freely on the bearing in the mount. That's where I'd start.

There were variations throughout the years, but I'm not sure how much information you're going to find.

Call Jamie at www.subarugenuineparts.com She'll help you out and get you the correct stuff.

The LED light is on the ABS computer. There is a little flap of carpet you should be able to lift to see the LED light blinking.

What systems specifically are you looking for.....wire color for the whole car is a little broad. What are the instructions for your remote start? What do they tell you to hook it up to?

I've also heard of modern garage as well. May want to look them up in the phone book for an address & phone.

I'd ask your question over on www.legacygt.com/forums There's much more newer legacy owners over there. Someone's bound to have experienced the problem.

What sort of info do you need for hooking it up? The haynes/chiltons manuals are ok, and should have at least some wiring info that you could use.

Cool! Nice pics.

may want to post in the meet & greet forum too.

It's possible there is a leak/cracked hose in the evaporative emissions system, which would let fuel vapors leak out. I don't think the dye would work for this.

Drive plate? Are you talking about the flex plate? The only thing I can see aligning is some mark on the flex plate and torque converter.....however I still don't think it's a big deal.

This is the subaru part # 22611 AC270 I'd suggest seeing if these places have a used one http://www.aaronsautowrecking.com/ http://www.4subarusuzukikiaparts.com/ http://www.superrupair.com/ Or if you want to buy new www.subarugenuineparts.com You also may want to post in the marketplace "wanted" forum, and some of the other subaru boards.

There should be an actuator motor that moves the door. First thing I would do is make sure the linkage and levers move freely. If they do, then it's possible the motor is weak, or it's not getting the voltage it needs to work properly. Yeah I don't know of another way to get at the HVAC stuff easily without removing the dash.

check the code and report back.

Yeah if it is the metal hard line, then yah you'll probably have to drop the gas tank. To get the gas tank out you pretty much have to remove the rear diff, axles, and subframe. I "think" you could leave the crossmember in there, but it may give you more room to remove it as well. It's not overly difficult, but there's a bit of work involved.

Which ever TPS you decide to use 3-wire or 4-wire should determine which ECU you use. However I think converting an OBD1 car to OBD2 may not be the easiest.

A buddy from college replaced the neck on his 95 for under 100. So I'd check the price of a new one. They may have changed designs.