Legacy777

Are the pads different brand/manufacturer/model? The issue you could run into is if they are different pad compounds, they could apply different brake forces, and cause the car to pull to one side or the other. You really should have identical pad types, etc on the left & right side of the car. Safety aside...you should be alright with putting the old rotors on. Depending on the pad compound and break in, it's possible to get some uneven pad deposits...but probably not overly likely.

Have you looked at the struts to see if there's any markings on them? I'd really recommend you put the same brand/type on all four corners. If you put a strut with a higher/softer damping rate on either the front or rear, you can severely offset the handling characteristics of the car. My car was like this. I had stiffer struts in the rear and softer in the front. The car was very tail happy and the rear end would step out on cornering. I'd recommend KYB GR2 struts.

You may want to replace the coolant temp sensor. How does it run when it's all warmed up? Other possibility is the idle air control valve.

The manual button does absolutely nothing to make it more like a 5spd. Read this http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html#manualbutton

Pretty cool

You may want to check out http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

Pull the codes from the engine. More then likely that will give you a clue as to what the problem is.

Hey Andy, Welcome to the site. I don't have a recommendation on the clutch, however I will say that if you go with a stronger clutch, you can expect to have a grearter chance to kill the gearbox. So you'll have to decide what you want to replace, a gearbox or a clutch. If you're looking to upgrade the gearbox, there are some manufacturers in the states and australia that make straight cut gears. I'm sure there's places in the UK you can find info/vendors to buy stuff. You may want to check out http://forums.nasioc.com/forums there's a lot more impreza owners over there, plus probably some people from you're area.

You can try a junkyard, or if you want to purchase a new one, I'd recommend www.subarugenuineparts.com

You may want to post in the meet & greet section as well.

Only the automatics have two speed sensors. The 5spds only have the one speed sensor in the combination meter. What I'd suggest doing is verifying that the speedo cable inside the casing is still in one piece and hasn't broke. I'd start there, and if the cable is intact, spin the cable with a drill, and see if the speedo head moves (ignition needs to be in the ON position). If it does, there could be an issue in the transmission speedo gear.

Are you talking about the manual button on the shifter lever? I never really used the manual mode on my legacy.....so it's up to you if you want to hook it back up.

Hmm....that's weird. You're welcome for the website

There's probably something in here. I haven't looked at it recently. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1999_Legacy_FSM/

The markings on the edge of the cam sprocket is what you want to align things too. Here's pics from my timing belt job http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt/

The duty c solenoid is good according to the FSM and your readings. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/duty_solenoid_c_diag1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/duty_solenoid_c_diag2.jpg I'd maybe check the sensor ground to the trans chassis. Also, I'd check the FWD fuse for voltage.

Large arrow on the cam sprockets? Did it not have the markings on the cam sprockets? If not, that's very strange indeed.

I see no mention of anything like this for the first gen legacies/2.2. It may be on the 2.2 single exhaust port models, but there's nothing about it on the older 2.2's. Has anyone seen this fix/bracket on a first gen legacy? Jamie, any chance of getting a diagram/pic of what the piece looks like? What's the model & year application for that part?

They just have a tail pipe wide band....or at least that's what they used on the dyno day. They probably have a wide band, but weren't using it on the dyno day. I am probably going to get a wideband sensor that has a simulated narrow band output so I can leave it in all the time, and still make the ECU happy. We'll see though.

Hmm....I've seen no mention to it in any of the factory manuals, or parts manuals. I'll have to take a closer look at the parts book tonight. Anyone have a picture of it?

O2 sensors are typically ok until about 100k. They may get lazy with less mileage, but as good preventative maintenance, 100k is a good number.

To do a compression test, you need to warm up the vehicle to normal operating temp. Unplug the coil pack. There's a 3-wire connector. Also, unplug the connectors for the injectors. Pull the spark plugs, put the compression gauge on each cylinder. Turn the engine over for several cranks with the throttle plate open all the way.

The guard doesn't keep the belt from loosening. The tensioner does that. The guard/covers just keep dirt and other junk from getting on the belt. This is assuming we're talking about the same thing.

Can explain what you mean by binding on the front only? The binding shouldn't really be front or rear specific.

Yeah the second tank was some more highway driving, plus I wasn't driving around full throttle everywhere In addition to what's on my main site, all the pics for the motor swap can be found here (I think I posted these) http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/ Yes I'm using the stock ej22t computer. I think the stock computer runs a little on rich side, which contributes to the less-then-stellar gas mileage. You can see evidence of this from the a/f ratio curve while I was on the dyno. Also, that curve is post catalyst, so the a/f ratios are probably still a little higher then that. I'm planning to swap MAF sensors, which will give me some additional room for accurate air flow measurement with higher air flows. When I do that and get the intercooler on, I'm going to have things tuned to bring the a/f ratios into line a little better. Power should increase as well as mileage.