Legacy777

I'd still try a full bleed of the brake system. The prop valves don't typ fail....I've never had one fail. The MC, the seals could be torn up, or get folded over. Here's pics of one I took apart. http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/mastercyl/ If there was some gunk in the MC, it could have gotten trapped between the bore and seal and caused the fluid to leak past it. You could try opening up the MC and inspecting/cleaning everything. Unless a seal is worn or the bore is scored, you may be able to salvage the existing MC. If you do bleed the brakes, take a turkey baster and suck out all the old fluid in the MC so it doesn't get pushed further into the brake system.

Is the handle being pulled up real high? You probably need to adjust the drum brake portion of the parking brake. There are little adjusters you can get to on the rear of the brake backing plate on the rear brakes. There should be a plug there. If you remove this, you can use a screwdriver to turn that so it moves the pads closer to the drum.

I would kind of guess there should be a wire back there, but I can't confirm that. You may want to also ask over here if no one has an answer for you. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/

The manual should have info on what the compression specs should be. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/2000+_Legacy_FSM/ Here's a leakage tester for $60 http://www.tooltopia.com/star-clt-2pb.aspx I got this one for a little more http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-5609.aspx

I've got mine apart right now. As mentioned, the crank and rods are forged, but are the same as what is in the non-turbo engines. I will be putting Eagle rods back in with forged Weiseco pistons. Compression ratio with the stock pistons is 8.0:1 Here are some miscellaneous pictures of the tear down. http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ej22t_headwork/

She sure the brake booster/assist just didn't stop working? Did the brake pedal go to the floor when the brakes stopped working? If so, did she try and pump the brake pedal? Or was the brake pedal just stiff and not stopping the car?

You need to check what the compression ratio is going to be. Is this going to be a turbo or non-turbo motor?

The fuse should be in the driver's side kick panel area.

Capacity for the 4EAT in the 1990 Legacy is 8.8 US Qts. Total fill capacity will probably vary between 8 to 9 qts for other model years.

Looks good!

You can pull the vents off and get access to the HVAC control panel to get access to check things out. Here's a picture of when I had my dash all apart. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/97obw/02/DCP_7740.JPG

It may help a little bit, but I don't know if it's going to really help.

Yeah....I'd probably just upgrade the pads. If the boots are not torn, and aren't leaking, then the seals are probably ok. No, open source is actually modding the stock ECU code. http://forums.openecu.org/

I don't see a reason to swap the brake booster, but if you've got one, it probably couldn't hurt. You sure that forester S wouldn't already have the 11.4" brakes?? I don't have any info on the forester brake sizes, but I'm sure they are similar to the Impreza stuff. So if you do have to swap something, I'd check what it's going to with the brake bias/balance with my brake spreadsheet calculator. Stock WRX clutch will handle that power. You can probably pick up a lower mileage clutch & pp for a reasonable price. If you want new, you could try OEM or Exedy (pretty much same thing) EM, since it's OBD2, I'd try and run an ECU that is supported by Open source ECU and/or the cobb accessport. Yes, get the walbro pump

For informational sake, the lifetime warranty on the seat belts first started in 1995. As for the automatic belts, is the seat belt light on the dash blinking? If so, you can check the computer for trouble codes. Here's info from the factory manual. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/autoseatbeltdiag1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/autoseatbeltdiag2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/autoseatbeltdiag3.jpg

That's a pretty good guide. I actually just split my ej22t motor this weekend. Getting the piston wrist pins out can take some patience and fabrication of the tool shown in the picture. Also, when splitting the block, don't use a metal hammer, use a dead blow plastic hammer and or a normal hammer with a block of wood. You may have issues finding the hex socket for the plugs where you access the piston wrist pins. I think you can get them at harbor freight. Think that's where I got mine....and they look identical to what was in the pictures in the guide.

bump, anyone have any ideas?

I don't have any experience with the bars, but I would agree with you the measurements look like they're setup for a sedan. You may want to inquire on the Legacycentral BBS to see if anyone over there has used these bars and could give you some input.

Sounds like you're checking the level properly. Not sure where this takes you. I still think it'd be a good to put a diagnostic computer on it to see what's going on when the problem occurs, but if you don't have a good Subaru dealer, then that may be kind of difficult.

Yeah I wouldn't rule out axles. I had a pretty harsh intermittant vibration that was axle related.

Are you checking the level with the engine running, and after you've cycled the gear selector from park to 1 and then back to park? The amount that is drained out really depends. On older AT's where the drain back valves are worn, you will get more transmission fluid draining out of the trans than newer AT's where some fluid remains in the torque converter. I can see about 4-5 qts coming out on a typical drain and refill.

It's probably going to be 3/8" ID if it's the same as the first gen legacies. Maybe someone else can confirm that though.

Are you sure the transmission is just getting stuck in 1st gear only? The transmission is designed not to shift into overdrive until the transmission temp is above a certain spot. It's possible a temp sensor in the transmission may be out and causing some of the issues. A subaru dealership should be able to hook up to the computer and tell you what they see. It however doesn't sound like your local dealership is interested in troubleshooting.

Does the vibration only happen during turns? Does it happen with the FWD fuse installed? If yes to the first and no to the second, then the rear AWD clutch packs probably need to be replaced. Some people have gotten by with trying to put an additive in there, but I don't have any experience with that. Seeing that inserting the fuse in the FWD fuse holder causes the torque bind to go away, that would indicate that the duty c solenoid is functioning properly and the problem is with the clutch packs.

You should have around 19 in of vacuum at sea level. On the TPS, the absolute measurement isn't that big a deal as long as the number is somewhat close. If you're not getting a CEL for it, it's good. I'd still recommend replacing the plugs.