Legacy777

Do you have your owner's manual? I think it is in there.

It definitely sounds like a MAF related issue. I had similar issues with my legacy. As for the wiring or the MAF sensor, you can try testing the wiring, but with intermittant problems, it's a little more difficult to get an accurate test. Do you know anyone that has a similar car or another subaru of the same year that you could maybe swap the MAF sensor to test? Other option would be to try and find a used one. As you found out, replacing the MAF sensors with new ones is expensive.

You can see the dowl pins in this pic http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/28/DCP_5299.JPG If my understanding is correct those would just be bolt holes....but maybe I'm way off, since I mainly deal with the older gen legacies. If you can find a pic of the back of a new engine, we could compare the two.

I don't see why you can't do this. I believe some of the forestor guys have done this. Which box are you wanting to take it out of?

The 99 legacy is still 2nd generation, however I don't know when the phase change occured. I have a hunch it was somewhere in the late 2nd gen legacies, but I could be wrong.

I'd recommend you look into things yourself. A/C work is one of those things that you can do it a ok job, and it'll work, but it may come back to bite you in the end. What I'm specifically talking about is contaminents in the system from the compressor, water, etc. Discharge the system if it is not completely discharged (be careful when doing this). Remove the condensor and look for oil sludgey spots. That is where the leak is and the road dirt/grime has collected with the oil from the system. Like Gary said, if it appears to be around the fitting, you could try replacing the o-ring and see if that works. Otherwise, get another condensor. You should be able to pickup a new condensor for 200 or so dollars...maybe more. You may be able to find a used one, but becareful. You'll need to make sure it also doesn't have a leak, and you should flush it out. You can use brake cleaner and compressed air to flush the condensor out. Depending on how involved you want to get, you could pull the remaining lines and flush them out, as well as clean out the junk in the evaporator box. You will need a new reciever/drier. You'll want to pour out the oil from the old receiver/drier into a measuring cup, and add approximately that much new/clean oil into the new receiver/drier. The only issue with that is you may be low on oil because of the system having a leak, which means the amount of old oil won't be correct. So as you can see....it can get a little tricky. The only true way to get things right would be to take the compressor out, drain it, and then add the required amount of new/fresh oil to the compressor, and receiver/drier. (add everything but 1 oz oil to the compressor. Put the remaining 1 oz into the receiver/drier) Once you have everything back together you need to have a vacuum pulled on the system very soon. The oil will absorb water, as will the receiver/drier, which can cause issues during normal operation. With a deep vacuum pulled for at least 30-45 minutes, you're ready to add refrigerant. I may have rambled......so if you would like clarification, please say so. I've done this a few times now on my Legacy Josh

I don't recall when the change occured, but the "newer" engine/trans combo uses 6 bolts to connect the trans & engine, while the "older" style uses 4. I have heard that it shouldn't be an issue since the 4-bolt style has two dowl pins where I believe the other two bolts are. You may want to search on nasioc, as I'm sure this has been covered. As for the ECU, I really can't say whether they've kept things similar to the older style ECU's, and you can just jumper/un-jumper the AT/MT identifier pin. Have you read my swap writeup? www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap

It sounds like the AC relay is clicking on and off....which is loading/unloading the engine....which may be causing the bucking. Do you have any issues when the AC is not on? Also, by fan, do you mean the blower fan that blows air through the vents, or the radiator fan? How long has it been doing this? If just recently, have you had any maintenance or done something that might be related?

All AWD 90-91 MT & AT normally aspirated Legacies have a 4.111 final drive ratio. All AWD 91-94 MT & AT turbo Legacies have a 3.900 final drive ratio. All AWD 92-94 MT normally aspirated Legacies have a 4.111 final drive rato. All AWD 92-94 AT normally aspirated Legacies have a 3.900 final drive ratio. All FWD 90-94 MT & AT Legacies have a 3.700 final drive ratio. The 91 turbo legacy was the only one to have a rear VLSD.

It's probably because of how the piping runs. You should be able to get one for another impreza and customize it to fit.

I'd recommend checking out www.bbs.legacycentral.org as well as searching on the USMB.

Do you hear a clicking when it happens?

The main thing to check/adjust is the idle switch. If that's set properly, and you continue to get the code, and have those issues, then yes, I'd probably agree that swapping out to a new/another TPS would be a good idea.

Front or rear? Both http://boxer4racing.com/ & http://renickmotorsports.com/oscommerce/catalog/ sell poly bushings. Superpro makes the bushings for whiteline....so they're going to be the same bushing....just different color.

Does it look similar to this? http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/trannyresistor1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/trannyresistor2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/trannyresistor3.jpg If so, it's the transmission dropping resistor. The TCU runs the signal for shifting solenoid through it to help minimize shift shock during shifts. The TCU can alter how much juice it sends through there, and by doing that, it can firm/soften transmission shifts.

I'd recommend www.subarugenuineparts.com However I'd also recommend you post in the WTB forum as there are probably other members that have used ones for substantially less money then what it's going to cost you new. Also, how do you know your TPS sensor is on its last legs? What symptoms are you experiencing?

Yeah....you should be fine using that combo. May I also make a recommendation you replace the rear struts as well. Replacing only two struts can lead to handling issues and an imbalance of how the car handles weight tranfsers, etc. Even with new struts from a different manufacturer can play havoc on things. I had kyb GR2's on the rear (excellent strut btw) and monroes on the front. The car was extremely tail happy, and the rear end would step out on turns. I put GR2's on the front, and the car handled beautifully. Josh

It really shouldn't matter.....blue...red...yellow

Not sure what to say other then to pull harder. I don't think you'll be able to bust anything.

Yes it would cause code 33. I had it happen with my car when it was still an AT. If you're standing in front of the car, looking at the engine, it is on the left (passenger) side of the car, sort of around the area where the dipstick for the differential is. Look for the speedo cable coming out of the firewall, and follow it to the differential. That piece is where the cable connects to. The shaft inside of that piece, that spins is what breaks, not the piece itself. Other thing to note. When you remove the old piece, make sure to get the rubber piece and metal washer. They will typically stay in the hole. You'll need to get that piece from a subaru dealer. You can order it only from www.subarugenuineparts.com, or get it from your local subaru dealer.

You could try splicing a line in there, but I don't think it's a great idea. You may want to try and find one from a junkyard.

Pumping the brakes several times in a row will use engine vacuum. The idle will fluctuate some, but it shouldn't stall. It sounds like your idle air control valve may be sticking or not performing at its peak. You can try squirting some brake cleaner in the IAC tube. It may help....it may not.

So was the headgasket busted? Did they use an updated part, or anything like that?

The base piece in the transmission that connects it to the cable typically breaks. It's a relatively cheap piece and easy to fix. You can test the cable and speedo sensor by taking the cable end and putting into a drill, the speedo should work. The ignition needs to be in the ON position. Here's a pic of the piece http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/speedocablebase.jpg

Not too shabby