heartless

s'ko - first, congrats on the pending engagement! Second, definitely send her to the widows board! she will be more than welcome and can rant, rave, and vent her frustrations there to her hearts content! Good luck on 5/22!!!!

Well aint that just the s*****tz!! Figures. Dont suppose you have a phone number for this place, do ya???? Would like to call the guy and let him know he lost out on a bunch of real cash. He had a darn gold mine sittin there and he just threw it away!!!!! what a numb nutz.

First, you need to stop the engine from turning when you try to bust the bolt loose....some of us have drilled a hole in the bell housing and use a drift punch or some other such device to slip into one of the holes on the flywheel....best lined up with the three little marks for when you do the belts - there is a hole just off to the right of those marks on the flywheel, as you face the engine bay from the front of the car. just be sure to CAREFULLY mark the location for drilling, and definitely use a center punch to get started. Then get yourself a LONG breaker bar - have been known to use a length of pipe slipped over the handle of a 1/2 drive breaker bar for more leverage. (but then, I am just a weak little female! ) As a side note - give that darn bolt a shot of GOOD penetrating oil before you start setting up to drill your hole - that way it has time to do it's job. We use one called PB Blaster - very good stuff if allowed a little time to work. WD40 wont cut it. Good Luck!!

Totally AWESOME!!!! tell your daughter that I said she rocks!! You go Girl!! Now, how much to send her up here to Wisconsin for the summer so she can help me build one????? :lol: Got a spare one sitting in the back of one of the extra wagons....needs to be put in the front!! LOL need to be doing some other work on the same car too...could teach her a little body work while she is here.....

definitely check out ebay, and maybe do an online search at partsamerica.com ...associated with Advance Auto, and a few other stores...being an 85, not sure how much luck you will have, but have had good luck finding stuff for our 89 GL wagon's thru them...even got a discounted price for new/reman brake calipers at my local Advance Auto store with a printout from thier webpage on the same part. if nothing else it will give you a price comparison point.

had a similar problem with my 89. once i did get the darn things out, they got tossed! used longer bolts, washers and nuts to close it back up on the lower end when the job was done. Will make life much easier for future work.

No, you do Not have to remove the oil pan to reseal the oil pump. all the rest of the stuff, yes, but not the pan.

ok, so would it be possible to get a schematic of this thing?? the pic you posted doenst really show enough for me to figure this thing out - not an electronic wiz, but i could probably figure it out if I had some sort of drawing to go by. also, where did you get the pigtail from? an old resistor pack?

OK, so where can I get one of these??? my fan only runs on 3 and 4! hmmm, maybe better get two of these things! since we are about to have a second Sube on the road.

Hey Miles and gang...on your return trip if you drop south just a little to the Wausau Wisconsin area would love to meet you guys and see the infamous Trashwagons!! I work in Wausau at the Home Depot store, right off the freeway. If you guys can make the side trip, post here as to when. Happy trails guys!

Anyone know the return trip route??? Would love to meet these guys if they are going to go thru Wisconsin at all... I live in the center of the state - less than 2 hours from I-94, about 15 minutes from state hwy 29 running east/west (from Menominee/Eau Claire to Green Bay)

Nothing unusual about getting 200K on a Subie...Some have over 300K on thier cars. My 89 GL wagon has 183K and counting - daily driver. Still has the original motor and tranny, new clutch and axles 2.5 yrs ago, and going strong. Will be doing a reseal job on her soon as she leaks oil from all over the place, but not leaving any major puddles yet. Take good care of her and she will last ya a long, long time!!

Hey Tom, Thanks for the link!!! that will be a big help! I like the idea of putting new ones in rather than used ones. We did get the brake line retaining clips from Advance Auto, a universal version, but as long as they work and hold the line in place, I am happy!! Thanks again!

am pretty sure the drivers side is the rearward belt (needing to be put on first), but I have been known to be wrong before... :-p if you do a search here for timing belts there are several write ups on the subject that go into great detail from folks that know a whole lot more than I do. what kind of book are you using? Haynes and Chiltons can be semi useful for some things but leave a lot to be desired on things such as this. (have both of them myself, and still prefer to come here on most repair subjects) There are a couple of us Wisconsinites here, but we are few and far between. Again, welcome to the board!! and good luck with your Subie.

Where can I get replacements??? Have tried all the hardware stores around here and can get close, but they are either slightly bigger (both in length and guage) or slightly smaller. Doing timing belts and oil pump reseal on an 88 GL d/r wagon, and found one of the springs was bent - dont ask me how, altho it looks like it wasnt an original....slightly different size than the other one.....my parts cars are still buried under several feet of hardpacked snow right now with no sign of it disappearing anytime soon, or I would be digging one out of one of them. Also need new brake line clips - the ones that hold the flex line in place on the front brakes....doing a complete brake rebuild on the same car and the mounting clips are toast. Any idea on where i can get those too???

Welcome Slider!!! another Wisconsinite!!! yeah!! When you installed the belts, did you start with the drivers side at the 12 o clock, install that belt, then rotate the engine so that the drivers side was at 6 and passenger side was at 12??? If not, this might be the root of your problem. (i am not the authority on the subject, but had to replace my belts not too long ago, and doing another set on another car right now, just need to find some other related parts first!) I am sure others will chime in on the subject, but weekends are kinda slow.....be patient and someone will know exactly what the problem is. Are you in the Salem over near LaCrosse, or the one in southeastern WI?

All depends on the needed purpose for me.... general purpose, everyday running around and having a little fun, and hauling misc items (like 3 six foot tall pine trees for transplanting!!) - definitely the Subadoo!! For heavy hauling, or very large objects, gotta be one of the pickup trucks - again, depends on what it is - too large for the subie, but not too heavy (new riding mower) it would be the 95 dodge ram 1/2 ton, for very heavy or large items (50 bundles of shingles for the new garage - weight = 3200lbs), it would be the 67 F-250... For a more stylin, cushy ride - the 73 Lincoln Mark IV... I love my Subaru's, but I also enjoy many other vehicles as well. I guess my loyalties lie as follows: 1. Subaru 2. Ford motor company 3. Anything older than 1976

doesnt sound like such a good idea to me, unless you live somewhere that never gets to the freezing point.... Besides, running straight water in your cooling system really isnt a good idea anywhere you live, but especially here in the great white north....we are still in the freezing temps range....I would have a dead Subie in just one night!!

89 GL wagon, EA82 SPFI, 2wd, 5 speed - no cruise - 182K and stock size tires...last mpg check was 29.7mpg - running between 55 & 70mph going back and forth to work - approx 100 miles a day - usually four days on a fillup = 400 miles avg to a tankfull. At the moment she isnt doing quite so well, as she has developed a major exhuast leak right at the exhuast manifold - will be getting fixed on friday...

well, duh...didnt even look at your sig....that explains a lot!! guess those ea71's are even cheaper to maintain than the ea82's are! Thanks for the reply on the torque thing....I did about what you did, and tightened them to what i felt was enough. with any luck it will stay put.

Just a quick Q on doing the oil pump reseal - is there a specified torque for the pump mounting bolts??? Just did this job on an 88 GL wagon and couldnt find anything about torqueing the bolts when remounting it (haynes and childrens manuals - no FSM yet ) Pump is back in, going to be doing the cam seals as well, as soon as we get the parts, so the front is still torn apart - pump bolts are just snugged down at this time, but if they need to be at a specific torque it can still be done. BTW - Raven, how did you get the pump install kit for $4.88??? was $24.88 at the Advance Auto near me!!!

Hate to ask the obvious, but did you check your fuse box??? just a thought....

Thanks for the reply Noah and Caboobaroo... We are proably going to just replace the calipers - not cheap, but way cheaper than an accident would be! Will be checking the rotor thickness and go from there - probably replace them just to be on the safe side - along with new pads and flex lines & we should be in goood shape. Again, thanks for the info! It is appreciated.

Ok, got most of my questions answered by doing a search - LOTS of great info found - BUT Would like opinions on either cleaning up what I have, or replacing.... car is 88 GL d/r 5 spd wagon - got the front calipers off and took a good look at the the pistons, pads and rotors. Pads on the passenger side are nearly brand new but have gouges from the rotor on the inner pad, rotor is pretty rough looking, and the piston face is very rusty, with the rubber seal around it looking pretty weak. Drivers side - inner pad nearly gone and gouged up, outer pad about half, rotor and piston in same condition as pass side... This car has sat idle for roughly two years - used a good soaking of PB blaster to get the caliper bolts loose - we are trying to get this car road worthy as soon as possible. Would I be further ahead to go ahead and replace the calipers and rotors, or do you think we can get away with just turning the rotors?? Anyone have specs for the rotor minimum thickness?? Thanks in advance gang

Follow Mr. Skip's directions...I just went thru all this with my car! The EGR solenoid is buried underneath all the vacuum lines and other misc stuff...but following the vacuum line from the valve on the backside of the motor will lead you right to it. Should have a white connector for the wires - the black connector goes to the purge solenoid, and green goes to the thermo sensor (thanks go to Skip for my knowledge of those!!) There is also another vacuum line attached to the front of it that goes towards throttle body... Good luck on finding a replacement. Be sure to check with a meter before you waste time pulling. Very common failure from what I understand.