heartless

also a good time to thoroughly inspect the radiator hoses. When I got my 02 Forester, the lower hose was about to blow it was so thin.. in a half dark shop with a work light under the car & I could see light thru the hose. I have replaced the old style - the one on my old 90 Legacy was shot and allowed the timing belt to jump under heavy throttle - most likely cause was someone previously compressed it too fast. (the car had around 175K when I got it) @Bigsky - when compressing the tensioner, it needs to be done S-L-O-W-L-Y and in the horizontal position. Place it in a vise if you have one, and snug the vise until it just holds the thing in place.. then 1/4 (at most) turn more to start compression. walk away & do other things, periodically go back and give the vise another slight turn tighter (1/8 - 1/4 turn at most - if you feel resistance, stop), then leave it again for several minutes. You do not want to rush this

well done.

yes, it is possible, especially if it is an aftermarket unit. and yes, touching the brakes slows wheel rotation, thus the axle shaft rotation as well - so yeah, it is a very real possibility. One thing you could try that costs nothing but some of your time if you do it yourself is to swap the axles left to right and see if the noise follows.. if it does, you have your answer.

i used to buy & sell stuff on ebay regularly some years ago.. i forget what set me off on them, been too long ago now, but I am fine not using them. The other half shops on there all the time. If I really REALLY need to get something from ebay, i get him to do it, LOL. fewer headaches for me.

i got disgusted with ebay years ago.. walked away and never looked back, and it has just gotten worse & worse since.. i don't buy anything there if I can help it. Sure, i might pay a little more, but buying from trusted sources is worth it to me. I buy it once, and done - not buying the super cheap, finding out it is junk, and having to buy again. I don't have time for that game. there has been a lot of "fake" stuff showing up there recently (as in the last year, maybe two) - do a quick search on the subject - fake batteries (the 18650 type), fake spark plugs (there is a thread here about that) and other items, too. If the price is "too good to be true" it probably is a fake. leaving it off is easiest. I live on a gravel road, so lots of dust, gravel, etc. - have no desire to put the thing back on and cause more problems later.

holy cow is that bad! I don't think I have ever seen one quite that bad, geez.. yeah, it is a wonder you were getting gas into the tank at all! genuine Subaru part, should be ok.. just make sure it has that same sticker when it arrives at your door. same scratches & everything. and yeah, that solenoid will definitely be toast, so good idea to order one of those as well. Good luck getting the old one off, at the very least you will probably need new screws (there are 3 that hold everything at the filler door) I ordered a replacement neck for my 02 Forester from Rockauto not too long ago, and the one I got came with the solenoid, outer plate, rubber gasket and new screws. I did have to tweak the lower part of the tube just a little to get it to fit properly, but for an aftermarket piece it was not bad, and solved my problems with not being able to fill properly.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1999,legacy,2.5l+h4,1389405,fuel+&+air,fuel+tank+filler+neck,6272 please dont buy from ebay. Rockauto is much more trusted source

i do hope you mean 1750rpm - the car wont be running at 175, lol but anyway, yeah, check heat shields on the drivers side of the car as for the codes, you need to find out what exactly they are, and the order they appear in. this can often point you i the right direction of what needs attention first. i sincerely doubt that the cat needs replacing if it is running & driving as well as you say. clogged cat would cause all sorts of drive-ability issues

dont forget that the drive ratios need to match between tranny & rear diff.. if they dont you will have problems.

i have never had a WRX or an STI so cant really comment on those. the plain jane L series models however.. have had a few LOL

i want to say no, but not 100% certain of that. I know on my older Legos, there was not a lot of clearance on the tire to spring perch on the struts.. I could barely fit my hand in between with the stock tires (the old 14") swap over the outback struts/springs, and you would be golden

LOL, you make it sound so simple, but to get a good looking finished product, it is far from that. As already mentioned.. a used hood of the correct color is going to be far easier, and cheaper, in the long run. what you are seeing on the surface is just the tip of the iceberg, so to speak. it is pretty much guaranteed to be worse underneath the paint - especially if it was that poorly done. in your first pic, it looks to me like that entire front edge is starting to bubble up.. not good. The way to prevent this from happening in the future is to address any little stone chips/nicks with touch-up paint as soon as possible.

glad you got it sorted out. mine will periodically gunk up as well - i live on a gravel road, so lots of dust - but i usually have the opposite problem - it wont close properly!

they are a nice car - the other half has an 06 LL Bean.

yes, it could

freeze off is some good stuff - not cheap, but it does work about 99% of the time when used as directed

you shouldn't need anything to hold the new gasket in place, they should have little ribs that will hold them in the groove of the cover. just be careful when repositioning

the overflow bottle does not have to sit in the stock location, but it should have one somewhere.

Good job on getting her back up and running.

good luck, hope it works. =)

well, when I did the strut lift on the 95 i gained real close to 1.5-2 inches.. but that was on Foz struts.. not sure how the Foz & outback would compare. 90on the left on stock suspension, 95 on right on the Foz struts & stock wheels.. I later upgraded to the Foz wheels too and gained a touch more

not sure why you would want to do this, since the fogs would basically kill the distance vision of the high beams (which is why they are the way they are from factory) fogs are meant for use in poor visibility conditions, not general driving use. but to each their own i guess

depends on how rusty things are. sway bar links are pretty easy as long as the bolts aren't rusted real bad

other than completely rewiring, no