msteel

But these are for Legacy. He's working on a Loyale.

No, it's not normal. All windows should operate up or down from the drivers switch. The Lock switch would be suspect, except that I believe it disables all windows, up and down, drivers window too. When the drivers switch is controlling other windows, it switches both power and ground. The local switches pass this through to the motor unless they are also being operated. When the drivers switch is operating the drivers window, it is actually not routing the power or ground to the motor. It sends control signals to a separate control unit which handles the auto up/down features. As I understand the wiring diagram, there is not any single wire that could fail by breaking or shorting (at least to power or ground) that could cause all three windows to act this way. My best guess is that there is a bad connection supplying 12 volt power to the drivers switch. This could allow enough current to the motor so it could lower the window (an easier job) but not enough to raise it back up (harder). You could test this theory by trying to close a window with the drivers switch, and seeing if some upward pressure on the window would be enough to help the motor fight gravity.

OK, here are (lousy) pics of the timing belt tools I have. My father in law made them and gave them to me when he went to new gen subarus. The one on the right fits onto the cam sprockets so you can actually use a torque wrench to tension the timing belts. The one on the left fits into the bellhousing hole and holds the flywheel so you can get the crank pulley off more easily.

Or you could put a couple of nails into a broomstick. Not so durable, mind you--I got maybe one job out of that tool. Not good for _measuring_ torque either. But it did help get the camshafts in the right position, since they're a bit stiff to turn by hand. If you do want to build a tool, you gould use the bar and bolt design, but also attach a largish bolt head in the center. You could then actually use a torque wrench on it. I use something like this now.

Mine has the AC between the PS and Alt. Without the second belt the AC will not run because the pulley slips too much and the system disengages the compressor clutch. Everything else works fine. Some engines have the accessories arranged differently, I have no personal experience with that setup.

Nobody else likes this one? It's MY favorite.

Yes. Should be the same place on your engine, even though it's fuel injected. But here's a picture anyway:

Psyko, As far as the oscilloscope goes, most of my scope use is on the plain vanilla analog two channel variety. But, for this application, all the signals of interest would likely fall into the audio range. At that point you could use a digital audio workstation to get a multichannel, recording scope. Almost an analog logic analyzer. You'd have to do a little calibrating to get a voltage value to the waveform, but that shouldn't be too bad. And, depending on the analog section you might have issues with signals close to DC since most audio stuff doesn't care about DC. But, there are many workstations, and Macs are a preferred platform for many. USB might limit your channel count, but with firewire you should be able to get plenty of channels.

OK, found a picture of an EA82 SPFI engine that shows the PCV valve. It is circled in red. There was a change in the hoses from the earlier engines to the later one like your '93. So this '88 might have a different hose configuration. But the PCV valve will be in the same place.

Yes, it should be screwed in. There will be a "T" and a couple of hoses approximately 3/4" diameter that come out of the back of the air intake (the black rubber thing that says "Subaru FI" on it). The PCV valve should be on the end of one of those hoses. But I don't remember which side either. I think it's pretty easy to see if you take out the spare tire.

I've had one open. It has a standard EPROM that looks like it is set up so it can be programmed in-circuit. If I remember correctly there is also a pretty standard static RAM. All storage would be miniscule compared to today's desktops. I didn't recognize the numbers on the two bigger chips, but didn't bother to look them up. They were made by Hitachi (surprise, surprise). Lots of other miscellaneous stuff, I think some TTL, probably some analog stuff too.

'98 Forester, 140k miles, automatic "Needs some mechanical work" $750 obo. Upon inquiry I'm told it is believed to need gaskets. I don't know yet if it overheated badly in the process. I haven't seen it in person, either, just pics. The price seems attractive to me, at least if ALL it needs is head gaskets. I could do it myself, but really don't have the time. I know that the EJ25 DOHC has a bad reputation for head gaskets. Also less than thrilled with the automatic, but mainly because if my perception that they don't last as long as manuals. At this price is it worth paying a shop to do the HG's? Any other advice?

This should help you find the strap:

My SPFI has recently started doing this thing again, and I didn't find anything too helpful in my searches. Here's what it does: * Idle speed will go back and forth between about 1000 and 1250 about every second. * This has happened occasionally for a long time, but recently it happens more often, maybe once in every 15 or 30 trips. * If I don't shut it off, it will continue to pulse. The CEL will eventually come on, but even before the CEL comes on the ECU flashes a code 24 (air control valve). * The code 24 is not stored, just displayed while the engine is running. * If I start the engine back up it is fine. * This usually happens at the end of a short trip when I'm ready to shut the car off. * Most often the short trip started with a cold engine. * I swapped in an IAC/solenoid assembly that were last known good, tested good, and didn't look too dirty. No change (except it hesitated really bad until I reconnected the PCV hose to the intake boot...) Is the Code 24 really pointing me the way, or is the ECU just guessing about what the problem really is?

Jacinta (1992 Loyale wagon 4WD). Recently converted from family vehicle to my daily driver. Rust - not too bad yet but unstoppable Hesitates when cold Idle speed pulsates occasionally Sloppy shifter Missing one throwout bearing retaining clip (for about 7 years now) Hard to get in some gears at some speeds (worn synchros?) Suspension feels squishy when loaded or at highway speeds Tires lose air bit by bit Napa CV axle making noise....again Engine drips (don't they all?) Suspension says "brrrrupppp" with hard left turn Weak hatch struts Torn ball joint boots Chip in windshield Exhaust smell in cabin when standing with fan running (except in A/C max)

Selling Bucky for...GRITS...chicken and dumplins... are you sure you're from Connecticut and not somewhere down South here?

I have some handling issues too, especially at highway speeds. I have not really solved it but I do find that if my tires get low, the handling really gets bad. I even replaced shocks a while back. It needed done from miles and age, but didn't really help the handling.

The diagram I have for California cars is labeled Figure 5-3 and has the code A10-217 in the lower right hand corner. It sounds like you may have the same one. Looks to me like the letters are just placeholders for lines that go far away on the diagram. See if it makes sense for (a) to connect to (a) and so on. I've never worked on carbs since I'm from the FI era, but GD you said it looked like it could be an EA71 carb. According to the 80's spec pages, in '84 the STD hatchbacks still got the EA71. DL and GL Hatches got the EA81. But then if it's been replaced before there's no telling.

Well, strange enough, though I have never owned an '84 anything, I have an '84 Subaru FSM. And, the emissions control diagrams do show where the orifices are. There are 4 diagrams: 1) California models (Hitachi Carb) 2) Canada Models and 49 State 4WD Models (Hitachi Carb) 3) 49 State Non-4WD Models (Hitachi Carb) 4) 49 State Non-4WD Models (Carter-Weber (C-W) Carb) I don't have a scanner, but tell me which diagram you want and I will start thinking about how I could get a scan to you.

It seems likely to me, given Subaru's tendency to have parts as univeral as possible, that there are mounting points for an actuator even in the driver's door. After all, the cars were available in right hand drive versions, so in those cars it would have been a passenger door and had an actuator. It also seems likely to me that an actuator from somewhere else on an EA82 would bolt right into that spot. If you do go looking for parts, that would be a good place to start. But then, you don't have any more Subes in the junkyards down there than we do here, do you?

It should. But you need a 5 watt resistor minimum. The resistor trick is reported to work for the purge solenoid, which except for the connector, appears to be identical to the EGR solenoid.

Well, the volume wasn't exceptional, but the weight was significant. On this trip we had: 1. Cast iron wood stove (est. 400lbs) 2. Me (est. 250 lbs) 3. My pregnant wife (not going there) 4. My 2.5 year old son (est. 30 lbs) 5. Hand truck (est. 40 lbs) 6. A case of oil (est. 24 lbs) 7. Two cases of Russell Stover chocolate bunnies (est. 20 lbs) 8. Normal stuff like tools, baling twine, extra automotive tools, etc. And yep, we've got the bumper sticker thing covered too

Some black spray paint appeared on Jacinta and on Vanilla (newly aquired 99 Sienna) last night. PB Blaster seemed to do pretty well to take it off without doing noticable damage to the rightful paint. I'm glad I heard of the stuff here on USMB. I just hope I don't have to remove any more as I doubt the original paint would hold up to many repeat applications.

For the next guy searching, there are aftermarket resistors available for considerably less than the dealer. Standard Motor Products makes one that is currently available at rockauto.com for around $25. A bit more expensive, but a bit easier.

Only if Backwoodsboy told him the sad news. But even so, think of how Bucky would have felt to have the '08 come home while he was still around!