msteel

The fuel pump DOES run while cranking (well, OK, I can't hear it while cranking, but I can hear it continue for a split second after I quit cranking. To me this means it has been running while cranking). I DO have pulse across the two-wire connector that feeds the power transistor (F43 on the wiring diagrams). This should clear the Distributor and ECU. I DON'T have pulse across the coil input. I Can't find the appropriate diagram that shows all of the ignition conections. But think I am supposed to have power on the round connector to the coil and I don't.

This morning: 1) Fuel pump runs briefly when key is put to "on" 2) Fuel pump runs while cranking 3) Fuel pump doesn't pulse on and off with green test connector connected (I don't think I care because of #2 above) but the purge solenoid does pulse. 4) NO SPARK at plug or input to distributor. 5) Distributor turns. Not totally making sense but I'll work on the spark before going back to fuel... Once I find the screw that holds the distributor cap on

It also seems to me like it was running on residual fuel pressure. But I don't see any evidence that the fuel pump itself wasn't working. I could hear it run for 1-2 seconds every time I turned the key from off to on. I was doing that on purpose to try to move fuel through the line. The pump sounded the same as it always has. If the pump was frozen or locked up I expect it would have sounded different. Now the coolant temperature sensor is an interesting idea. Is is possible for the CTS to be bad in such a way that the ECU doesn't give it the right amount of fuel to start in cold temps, but won't throw a code? I've wondered about the CTS because of another intermittent problem but any time I've measured it it seemed in spec.

I currently can't get my '92 Loyale going. Here's the story: Back before Christmas we had some colder than normal days - here that means it is below freezing for a significant portion of the day. One of those mornings I started up the engine and it started right up, but it only ran for 5-10 seconds, then died. I cranked it some more but it wouldn't catch. Actually, I cranked it enough to run down the battery. I didn't have time to mess with it then so I drove the Sienna for a day or two. When I had a chance to spend a little time on it it was warmer. I added 5 gallons of gas and a bottle of fuel line antifreeze to the tank (obviously I was thinking along the lines of a frozen fuel line). I jumped the battery and cranked. It acted pretty well like it has the 2 or three times I've run it out of gas - a lot of cranking interspersed with turning the key a few times to run the fuel pump - and eventually it caught a couple of times then started. Then it ran fine for a couple of weeks. Well, we were out of town for over a week and the Subie sat. I drove it once after we got back. It was quite cold that morning but it ran fine. A couple of days later it did the same thing as before - started right up, died after a short period and wouldn't hardly even catch after that. So it's been sitting there a couple of days and I need to get it going again soon. This time the gas tank is full because I filled it up before we left town. Anybody have an opinion on where to start looking? I guess I would probably start by jumping it again and cranking it a bunch, making sure there is spark, and then pulling a plug to verify that fuel is reaching the cylinder. If it actually was water in the fuel the first time (not so sure now) then replacing the fuel filter would be a good move.

I always wondered about you since you sold Bucky for grits

I guess I haven't looked at meet-greet lately. It is always just northwest stuff anyway... There are a few of us USMBers down here. But not loads. Especially the old gen owners like me as those cars were much less popular here (due to lack of snow?). I'm in Greenville, about 1.5 hours away.

I don't think you want to remove the bolt that is circled in that picture. I believe it helps hold one of the A/C hoses onto the compressor. If you remove the hose you will lose refrigerant and the system will need recharged. Sounds like you are trying to get to the bypass hose that comes off the water pump. I have replaced that hose without taking off the A/C bracket. But it might have been while replacing the water pump. If you do not know where it is leaking, also check: * Under the spare tire and you will see the heater hoses going from under the intake manifold through the firewall. * There is also a small hose on the right hand (passenger) side of the engine that is easy to miss.

For some reason this post reminded me of my days at Provo High. Somebody in school there had a car (a Pinto, I think) with the top cut off and zebra stripes painted on. The owner covered it with a tarp when he thought it might rain...

EA82 wagon, of course. Even a Loyale can do great things. How else are you going to carry your 400lb cast iron wood stove and other stuff 150 miles one way? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82922 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63303 Too bad the pics aren't there anymore since the site got hacked.

Based on the pictures at rockauto.com, it looks to me like XT's and XT6's have steering racks that are like the EJ cars, but not like the other EA82's. The Imprezza and XT racks have one square bushing and one round bushing, where on the EA82's both bushings are square.

It's too bad that all that torque would destroy an EA82 transmission. Does anybody know if that new 6-speed is available with low range anywhere in the world?

I once drilled out this very bolt. Went to tap it to original size and was pleasantly surprised when the tap, instead of cutting new threads, found the old ones and began pushing out the threaded cylinder that used to be the bolt.

Use mine occasionally. Like it. If it catches when I don't want it to, I just let up on the clutch a bit. To really make it grab it seems I need to push the brakes firmly. I suppose this is by design.

So, supposing - "hypothetically," of course - one of those spring clips were missing, what would happen? Because one of mine has been missing for about 7 years.

At least it seems nobody thinks it's a wheel bearing. I'll check out the other things when I get a chance. But of course it is 75 today, 6 days after 4+ inches of snow. And the noise isn't there. So knowing me, I may be lazy and wait until the noise comes back or I need to do other work

I am trying to diagnose a squeak in my front passenger side. Here are the conditions when I notice it: * It sounds like "squee-squee-squee..." and changes speed along with the wheels. * It only happens when the car is in motion, above say, 15mph. * In gear or out of gear, clutch in or out, doesn't matter. * Brakes on or off, doesn't matter. * I can't tell if turning really changes the sound or if it is the placebo effect. But, it seems like turning left makes it louder and and turning right might even make it go away. * I only remember noticing the noise in cold weather, that is, below about 32 degrees F. * It started shortly (but not immediately) after I replaced the passenger side axle shaft (with a used one from the parts car I used to have). All of this is consistent (in my experience) with a bad wheel bearing, except for the squeaking part. Any wheel bearings I've had fail always growled or rumbled, but never squeaked.

Also, if it is worth it for you to buy new, there are replacements available. Rockauto.com has 5 brands including Subaru for $38.79 to $55.79.

(For future searchers) I was just looking at this (had mine fail) and I found Subaru part #807605032 on rockauto.com. It looks like the right thing, but when it's your daily driver you hate to have to wait for shipping.

It kinda reminds me of a speedometer cable, where it hooks into the transmission. But then I'm not familiar with the EA81 vehicles.

Yep, about a year ago I got rid of my rusty parts wagon. I stripped all the easy and small stuff, but since it was at in-law acreage 19 hours away from home, I left a lot of the bulky stuff, and it was still rolling (2 tires only). But the JY still payed me to take it and I was pleased with that. I haven't wished for anything I left yet, but I bet I will. But I've already used several of the things I kept.

The grumbling turning into a vibration sounds like it could be a wheel bearing. They usually start out as a bit of a rumble and get louder from there. Ask your mechanic if he checked the bearings when he replaced the CV joint. The cooling could be a number of things, but a common cooling problem with these old subarus is the radiator. It may be getting clogged. Even though nothing's leaking, here could just not be enough coolant flow.

Nope, not many old gen subies in the Carolinas. Like you said, a few of us here near the mountains. They are fun to drive on the beach, though (I took mine north of Corolla once and it was a blast).

This could be the switch, but it also could be wiring elsewhere. I believe the connectors to the switch assemblies are relatively easy to get to by removing some trim from the steering column. You might want to check the switch before pulling it or having it pulled. This all depends on your abilities. It is probably not too much more difficult than an oil change, but may be a little more involved. I have removed the switch from a parts car, and didn't need any special tools. But then I didn't care too much about messing some things up. If I remember correctly, the turn signal/lights stalk and the wiper stalk are all part of the same assembly, and you have to remove the steering wheel to remove/install it (here is where you're glad not to have airbags).

Also check the bolts that go through the reservoir and hold it to the pump. I loosened them once for a belt job and oops! all the fluid came out of the reservoir.

[THREADHIJACK] FERTHER is still around? I thought you sold him about a year ago. Or was that another EA81 wagon? [/THREADHIJACK] And Connie, if you haven't gotten the dash going yet, it wouldn't hurt to give that capacitor a look too. Hard to see from the pics but it looks to me like it might have leaked. Electrolytics are generally considered more likely to fail from age than semiconductors.