msteel

I have seen books in libraries that have been "converted" from paperback to hardback. I don't know if they rebind them, or have some other process to put a hard cover on. The ones I've seen have had the original paperback cover glued onto the front of the cloth-style hard cover.

Or those of us in the non-rust-but-also-non-snow-and-therefore-non-4wd belt where there are no Subes in the junkyards, because the few that ever lived here are still on the road.

Well, I once built a battery terminal/fusible link assembly with flattened copper pipe. I guess that doesn't count here, though because it wasn't on a Subaru. But the vacuum solenoid valve I fixed with an RCA audio connector and superglue was!

And if the splines ever strip out, you can put a shim between the drive shaft and the wiper arm. Aluminum works well. Like, from a carbonated beverage can (or, select the appropriate synonym for your region from the following list: pop can; soda can; coke can; soda pop can; lata de refrescos) My wiper arm is still going strong after at least 5 years

Since the clock dims when the headlights are on, one of the wires will be connected either to the headlights or the instrument lights.

My '90 Prizm doesn't have them either. Not sure if I should blame GM or Toyota for that.

Might be worth mentioning that the MAF sensor would only be on a fuel injected engine, his '87 might be carbed.

A switching speed regulator would be spiffy, and I've thought about doing it to mine as I've lost 2 speeds and Subarus are rare in junkyards in my area. It could be made fairly easily with a 555 timer circuit (or maybe a PIC buit you'd need a programmer) and a suitable transistor. The biggest trouble is incorporating the standard speed switch and "off" switch in the mode selector. You'd likely need to add a power supply wire and maybe a ground to run the electronics.

Once when I changed my timing belts the driver side jumped a tooth. On the Loyale that's the side that runs the distrubutor. It would act like it wanted to start but was very rough and never would stay long if at all after I stopped cranking. It would certainly be worth checking the timing.

Also, the idle switch is in the same unit so if you swap the TPS out you'll want to at least check the adjustment on that. If I remember correctly it's a simple screw stop adjustment.

Granted, there are some situations where you simply must have a truck. But I am convinced that a wagon must be one of the most practical vehicles ever. This past Saturday we took a 300 mile round trip, and here is some of what we had in the back of Jacinta (a 1992 Loyale wagon 5MT pushbutton 4WD): * A 400 pound cast iron wood stove and a short section of stovepipe. Here's a picture of the stove before we unloaded it: * A hand truck (wheels removed, but initially held in place by "cotter pins" made from a bent nail and a paper clip) * Myself, my pregnant wife, and my 2 1/2 year old son (with car seat, diaper bag, and a few toys), and a picnic lunch. * 2 cases (over 20 pounds) of chocolate easter bunnies from the Russell Stover outlet. * A basic set of screwdrivers, ratchets, sockets, pliers, vise grips, mini maglite, custom tools welded by my father in law, etc. (as well as the pouch of "tools" that came with the car) * A standard set of automotive fluids including: a gallon of antifreeze (minus the quart I put in before leaving home), a case of motor oil (minus the quart I added when we stopped at the auto parts store), a partial quart of automatic transmission (a.k.a. power steering) fluid, a pint of brake fluid, a pint of dry gas (that has been in the car for 10 of the 10 years I've known the car), a can of WD-40 (which recently replaced the 10-year old rusted can). * Additional "just in case" items such as: Duct tape, baling twine, flattened cardboard boxes, a set of (used) timing belts, two first aid kits, fire extinguisher (that has also been in the car for at least 10 years and currently reads "recharge"), jumper cables, welding gloves, baling twine, grocery bags for use at Aldi, a couple of towels, and an empty pickle jar (think Potty Training). Too bad I only got 25 MPG this trip.

It doesn't really make sense to me either, and I have some knowlege in the area of electronics and microcontrollers. I would tend to agree that you won't get much performance improvement by upgrading the ECU. But, yes, computers are faster these days and a faster ECU with appropriate programming might be able to do some more complicated modeling of the engine physics and do a bit better job. But simply putting faster clock on the stock ECU is unlikely to help it at all. The original speed is already sufficient to handle the original calculations.

And I suppose they bought it for $50 from a pacific northwest junkyard with a broken timing belt

Yes and no. The purge control solenoid and the EGR solenoid are identical except that they have different connectors. You should be able to remove the copper contacts/pins from the connector housing of either solenoid and put them into the other's housing. Otherwise you could splice the connector of one onto the other.

I can only speak for my '92. It has the alternator on the outside and the AC compressor on the inside. With the alternator off it's not to difficult to remove the bracket along with the compressor. There's a bolt under the alternator, one at the back of the compressor, and a bolt that has a kind of "long head" that sticks out between the belts. That goes through a slotted hole, so you only have to loosen it, not take it out. I haven't had the PS pump off mine, but I do know that the bolts on top of the the reservoir hold the reservoir to the pump. Taking them off will make a mess.

Hi Paul, and welcome to the forum! Wasn't this car on Craigslist a while back? I think I emailed you about it: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57006

My trips haven't been of the Montana to Baltimore proportions, but we've done quite a few long trips in our daily driver. It's a stock '92 Loyale 4wd wagon. We just took a 1300 mile round trip to Florida with no real problems. We did each way in a day with only gas/food/potty stops. The end of May isn't the hottest time for Florida, but it was pretty hot a couple of days and we used the AC almost the whole time. And got 30mpg doing 73 on the interstate. Show me a 14 year old 4wd minivan that can do that and I'll buy it The other big trip we do from the time to time is a 2000 mile round trip to the inlaws in NY state (one day each way here too). Worst problems we've had were a broken hatch handle and a torn CV boot in the same trip. I say, take long trips if your Loyale is in good shape. But then I always bring the service manuals basic tools along anyway

I just did my belts and thought I'd add my recent experience to this thread. Years ago I had a cam seal leaking badly and the dust seals got soaked with oil. That apparently made their length expand somewhat. When I put the belts and covers back on I made the dust seals fit by cutting small sections out of a few of them. This time doing the belts I considered leaving the covers off, but I also was considering doing some beach driving soon and decided to put the covers back on for sand protection. I put the dust seals back for that same reason. Well, I closed everything up and cranked it over, but it turned over really rough and wouldn't start. It turns out, a piece of the dust seals fell off the cover while putting the cover back on (it was the piece next to the water pump where you can't see a thing). So when I cranked it over the piece of rubber must have traveled around the cam sprocket and put it off by two teeth before falling into the bottom of the covers. The belts were fine but it took at least an extra hour to take it apart and redo the belts and covers. Conclusion that supports covers off: If I had left the covers off I wouldn't have had this problem. Conclusion that supports covers-on: Getting something as soft as a piece of rubber in your belt can make the car not run, without breaking the belts. P.S. I triple checked the timing marks before I put everything back together to make sure I had it right. That's my story and I'm sticking to it!

I'm planning to take a trip to Florida and would love to take my wagon on the beach again. Anybody know of any places near Savannah, Jacksonville, Tampa, or in between?

The two bolts that go through the reservoir hold it onto the pump. Start there. If they're loose, it'll leak out onto the top of the pump.

Well, I'm not one of the Subaru experts, but its been, what, a couple of hours? So I'll give it a go. According to the schematics I have (Chiltons, I don't have a FSM, so trust them how you will) the vehicle speed sensor in a Loyale SPFI looks like a reed switch. So I would be fairly certain that it would give an on-off signal at a rate dependent on vehicle speed. The next issue is voltage level. Probably the sensor pulses at a nominal 12 volts. I would not be at all surprised if the threshold the ECU used to determine on from off were 5v, since that is pretty much the standard level for computer logic. What is less certain is whether the pulse rate would be the same between EA81 and EA82. For example, 60mph might be 60 pulses per second on one and 30 pulses per second on the other. Which brings up the question of whether it would matter. I remember reading here that the ECU uses the VSS signal very little on manual transmision cars. So in short, I'll give you a resounding "Probably" (Just what you were looking for;) )

Another braking scheme I've heard of on trailers uses a hydraulic master cylinder in the tongue in such a way that if the trailer wants to go faster than the car, it will compress the master cylinder and activate the trailer brakes. No electrical connection needed, except for lights, of course.

I have a '92 Loyale. For what it's worth, I seem to get parts that are "more right" or at least more specific from Advance than I do from AutoZone. OK, now I've probably started a war....

The codes are the same for the Loyales as for the later GLs. You should be fine using the "1988 and later single point fuel injection" code list. Your connectors also should be the green and white ones under the hood on the drivers side between the spare tire and the fuel filter.

This sounds just like the one I have. I have no complaints about it. I never even noticed drinks getting warm either.