Dr. RX

This is all pretty interesting, most of what Shawn has said is correct, what Qman added about the sedans is also correct. But is all my research, I have run across nothing that says that they have a different cam then any other turbo EA82, my parts book that covers from 85 to 90 show that exact same part number for the RX cam as all other cams in model years 87 through 90, the 85 and 86 turbos used that same cam as the carb engine. So there is a break betwee 86 and 87, but not because it is a RX. So, you haven't said is this car a coupe (3dr) or sedan (4dr)? The sedan had less aero kit stuff on it.

You might have to wait until he gets his e-mail account back up and running.

Pretty sharpe looking, looks like a great place to be 4X4ing also.

I have no idea if they are available, between Skip and myself, we gave the guy all the info and data needed to make copper gaskets for an EA82T, I do not know of anyone who ordered them from him. If you cantact him and he ask for a set up fee, remind him that has already been done. Here is his web site, [email=http://www.headgasket.com/]http://www.headgasket.com/[/email]

You could always try to get a pre 97 WRX IC, they are slightly different and were built about the same time as your car. The JDM Legacys had air to water ICs that would be bolts ups, but there is a lot of extra stuff needed to make them work.

Brandon, the conversion can be done, I've done it, but it is not cheap. If you can get the complete WRX STi (I'm assuming that you are talking about the 2004 model) car it would be a big help, but even a wrecked one of those would cost over 5 times what your current car would be worth in shop room condition. I can't imagine you getting an engine alone for less then $6000. If you would really like to pursue this, send me an e-mail and we can talking about it there.

There should be an o-ring for the compressor housing, there is no seal for the turbine housing. BTW the center section is that same as the Legacy, so I don't know what you would be gaining there. It is the housings that are different, and change those is where you will get the difference in performance. If you have some idea of what type of performance you are looking for, the guys at Turbo City should be able to suggest the right housings for you.

For some reason the link isn't working for me.

So, what are they asking for the center section? (E-mail me if you don't want to post it) Their web site has been under construction for some time now. I'd like to rebuild at least one of the turbos that I have laying around. I'm curious as to what all comes with the center section kit from them.

Actually Calebz, the only difference in the exhaust is the diameter of the tubing, the EJ down pipe mate up to the exact same place as the EA down pipe does, but the tow systems don't mate because of size. Yes, the air boxes are not exact matches, but you can bolt the EJ air box weher the EA air box was. The tranny crossmember needs to be custom made using a XT6 tranny crossmember or a Legacy crossmember. The rear piece of the crossmember is too wide and needs to be narrowed. I'm more then willing to exchange e-mail with someone who want to know all the problems that I had doing this.

Caution on the Haltec, the wiring diagram is wrong, it cost me $300 to find out on UltimateRX. If you can find a Legacy Turbo, the wiring harness and ECU should work on that engine. If you get the twin turbo, the motor mounts may be different, some of the later EJ20 turbo engines have a tab on the motor mount, if you grind that off, the mounts will work. I', not sure what Calebz is talking about with regards to, "every contact point for that enghine is different", the fuel lines are the same, the exhaust system follows that same path and fits in the same space (if your car is a turbo already), the air intake is on the same side of the engine bay, so I'm confused by the statement. The tranny and rear diff is necessary because the tranny input shaft is at a different high then the EA series as well as the fact that the EA tranny will not physically bolt up to the EJ engine. The diff is needed to make sure that you match the ratio in the tranny. BUT, THE BIGGEST problem with installing a twin turbo is that the left turbo sit further back on the engine then the right side does, that causes it to interfer with the brake booster and the steering mechanism. It is a monumental task to reroute that turbo to clear all those components.

Yes, you can check my web site for a 1980 to 1989 car. Beyond that I do have the VINs up to 2001. JF2AF53B9GE117152 JF2 means it is a 4WD AF is a Hatchback 5 1800cc engine without air suspension 3 GL B is weight class 9 check digit G 1986 E Dual Range 4 speed tranny the rest is the serial number. So, you have a 1986 4WD GL Hatchback with a EA81 and a D/R 4 speed tranny.

Flow, I've got a special price for you. Special Flowmaster price is $3495.99, that does not include shipping charges. I'll make the same offer to HondaSucks if you won't take it. :lol: :lol: JK, nope I want CASH!!!!!!!!!

78Turbo, why do you want the twin turbo? What is it about it that make you what it more then any other engine. No I'm not trying to get you to buy mine, I'm just curious. I was planning to put the twin turbo that I had into an 80 Hatchback. The problem with these engines is the driver side (left) turbo. On newer cars, there is a brake booster that interfers with the left turbo, so you need to find an earlier car without the booster. Although you'll wish you had a booster when you go to brake with all the extra weight up front. I would still check eBay from time to time, that is where I have seen an engine being auctioned off several times by a place in Colorado (at least I think it is Colorado), I don't think in the last 3 times that I have seen it that anyone put a bid in on it.

Calebz, you've never seen an RX with an EJ20G in it??? The is what UltimateRX has in it. There are pictures on my web site. I guess I'm going to have to put together a page on the building of UltimateRX. If you go to my web site, it is the blue RX.

XSNRG, all Japanese WRXs are EJ20's, the 22B is not considered a WRX, it is a separate Impreza model. The US Turbo Legacys are EJ22Ts. 78TurboBrat, good luck on getting everything in one place, I have seen a TT on eBay from time to time, but haven't for awhile.

I little nit pick here, the engine is an EJ20G for the single turbo, not a 'T', also, to the best of my knowledge, they never made an EJ22TT, it was an EJ20TT. I had one, but sold it almost two years ago. There are EJ22Ts available in the US. I happen to have a front clip to a 94 WRX STi sitting at my place, I'm asking $2500, but would sell it for $2000 to a board member. It is the engine, tranny, and complete front wiring harness, as well as the front suspension. I bought it for another project that didn't happen.

OK OK OK, Matt, look at the back side of the trottle body, there should be a screw in the casing going straight down into the engine, that is the idle adjustment. Sorry I didn't tell you earlier, but I had to go out and wrk on my car. Man I can't believe all the mis-information you got. I believe the idle is 850 rpms, but I can remember the degree setting.

Gee Matt, I'm sorry that people aren't sitting by their computers waiting to answer your questions. You may want to give it more then 10 minutes.

NEVER judge market value by what the ending price is on eBay. But Soobme is correct, market is the whole key, if there are alot of Subaru in your area, the price will tend to be lower, fewer the price might go higher. There are a few board member who live in your area, they may have a better idea of value.

If you look closely at the license plate, you will see it is for Queensland Australia, also note which side the steering wheel is on. This is an Australian conversion, they have plenty of the EJ20Gs (turbos) available.

If it were only that simple. The first thing you should notice is that the EA82 turbos make a 90 degree turn to put air into the compressor, on the WRX turbo, it is a straight shot, so some sort of adapter will need to be fabbed, then the up pipe and down pipe need to be fabbed. As long as you keep all the stock hardware, I don't think you'll need the aftermarker ECU or an I/C, but both would be good safety pro-cautions. The whole rotating mass on the T04 is lighter so it will spolls up faster, that also equates to less turbo lag. This also means that you will be pumping a larger compressed mixture into the compustion champer faster, so you will feel quick acceleration. Your HP will be increased, but there is a lot of work.

Yes, I have more pictures, anything in particular you are looking for??

What car are you talking about???

Nope, not from Scotland, but my family tree has roots there.