Dr. RX

Last time I check, a couple meant two, not three, so if someone said a couple of hundred, that would mean two hundred to me.

If you look at the overall time for the Oct 12th event, in the top 15 times, only 3 were NOT Subarus, and number one was a Justy!?!?!?! Did anybody notice how many times the Rachner name shows up, what a family!!!!! Looks like James finally show up for one.

There is an old saying that may apply here. Them that can do, do, them that can't teach. I wish I had a dollar for every time I have proved my shop teacher wrong. Caboobaroo, since you and Andrew seemed to be joined at the hip (inseparable), I have the idea that you may be a little tainted in your opinion. I'm not saying that Andrew did anything wrong with the rebuilt, I'm just saying that auto tranny are very susceptible to dirt, and seeing a dirting tranny that someone has just rebuilt sets off alarms to me. I have been rebuilding car long before the both of you were born, I think I have a little more knowledge in this area then the both of you combined. I rebuilt my first engine (a Ford 292 V8) at the age of 10, and that was 45 years ago. By the way, that engine ran for over 100,000 miles before having to be rebuilt again 12 years later.

Andrew, I have cleaned probably more trannies then you have seen, and at least ten of those were Subarus, I have no idea, nor to others I have talked with, how you'd ever get water into the front diff while washing the tranny, unless you removed the front diff dipstick and sprayed water directly into the tube. I have both a pressure washer and a steam cleaner. My normal method is to use a degreaser on the tranny then use the pressure washer to wash that off. I have never had a front diff fail, or show any signs that it might be damaged. I don't know where you got the idea that washing that tranny would cause that, but it has never been the case with any trannies I have washed.

Well, the tranny is a spare in case the one in the wife's car fails. The one in her car has been in 4 cars so far. I know this because there are wrecking yard markings from three different yards on it. So it was in the orginal car, install in a second car (first set of marks), then pulled and installed in a third car (the second set of marks), then pulled and installed into my wife's car (third set of marks). Since I'm still not suppose to lift anything heavy after my surgery (Sure makes taking a leak hard), I haven't done anything with it. The first thing I'm going to do to it is the first thing you should have done to it, and that is clean it. So if you are looking for how the tranny works, it may be awhile.

Sorry RedRX, but the cam holder assembly bolts onto the head the same way on both sides and is not part of the actual head. The EGR hole can be plugged. The only heads that I know of that are truly right and left are the turbo head, and that is only because of the oil passage and the water return being machined in the passenger (right side) head. What crack are you talking about. If it is the crack between the valves, that is very common, and if small, it is really not a problem. If it gets larger, it could cause the valve seat to fall out. It is the crack in other places on the head that are a problem.

The setup you have in the RX is a factory installation, the one on your wagon is a dealer installed option. Tex, bigger turbo means more turbo lag. I think a compressor housing mod may work better, see what the book says. I'm not sure what tha A/R ratio is for the stock EA82T turbo, but I'm sure it can be improved. I agree with teh XT6 clutch set up, I've had one in my 86 turbo sedan for almost six months now, it is great.

In a word "No." The two front suspension are very different. The XT6 is more like a Legacy/Impreza, so the strut bolts to the knuckle with two bolts. The XT4 slips into a socket with a bolt that cinches down on the strut. Hope that helps. OOPPPSSS, YES, the rear shock are the same, but not the front.

Well that I'd like to see, since the Fulltime 4WD standard transmission is mechanical and not electrical, what would a fuse have anything to do with it. Shawn, I would advise against driving with odd sized ties on a Fulltime 4WD car. On UltimateRX, I had a full size spare that I was going to carry in the back. Mainly because the modification eliminated the spare tire space in the engine bay.

I didn't say your's wasn't rare, in fact I did say that it was because of it being the last model year of sedans. I was just saying that they made more sedan RXs then 3dr RXs. Dennis is lucky if he sees more black RXs then sedans, because the black RX is the rarest of all the RXs, it was only produced for half a year. There are some differences between the 85-86 and 87-88 RX sedans. The two main differences are the color and the tranny. The 85-86 models were available in several colors, the 87-88 were only available in white, the trany , in the early car it was an on demand 4WD, in the later it was a Fulltime 4WD, both were dual range, but that later ones had a center lockable diff. Fox, the marking on the side was different each year, there were some 3drs with the same markings as this sedan, they were 88 RX 3drs. By the way, 88rxsedan, please go to my web site (in my signature block) and find the link to the RX database, then please send me that same information on your car so that I can add it to the database.

Let's see, they built RX sedans from 85 to 88 and 3drs from 87 to 89, so the first two years of RXs were nothing but sedans. When comparing the RXs to all other Subarus, yes, they are rarer, but the 3dr is rarer then the sedan. But what makes your car rare is that it is an 88, that is the last year of production for the RX Sedan, and there aren't many 88 RX Sedan around.

I'd have to say EA82 series wagon are the most common, even around here, the next most common seems to be OBs. I'd say it I see 25 Subarus while driving home from work (something that happens all the time), at least 12 of them with be EA82 series wagons, 8 will be OBs, the remaining 5 will be a mix of all other models.

Gee, do I have your address?? I'll have to check.

Gee, let's see, Ed brought the tranny up to me, Ed was down there for a rally cross since then, I understand you were there too. But as expected you didn't think about giving the torque converter to Ed. Andy, you were suppose to show up over here, I was ready for you, but you came at a time when I was out of town. Unless you are in a hurry, I'll catch you the next time we meet. Either over here or over there.

My 86 Sedan gets about 21 to 23 mpg, I've heard of someone getting 30 mpg in a RX. I can get second gear tire churp from my sedan on dry pavement, don't know about a RX.

If you are worried about gas milage, stick with the 3.70. Eventhough that 3.90 makes your car quicker off the line, it also runs at higher RPMs at freeway speeds. The center lock is not something you are going to use on a daily basis, only when tranction dictates it's uses, and since it doesn't snow much in central Cal on the coast, you probably won't use it that much. I believe the RX tranny also has a different set of gears then the normal D/R, giving it a close ratio gear box set. This is designed to take advantage of the power band. But for day to day driving, not that important. If you currently have a D/R, why not just have someone (or do it yourself) convert a 3.90 to a LSD?

Waiting for the torque converter.:madder:

Yes, I'm running a 3.90 D/R on demand 4WD, I have a 3.90 VLSD rear diff out of a Legacy Turbo. This is in my 86 GL-10 Turbo 4WD Sedan. I just picked up a steel work bench today and how have a place to mount my vises (one at each end) (man, that sounds a little kinky). Anyway, now I can do the 3.90 LSD conversions a lot easier.

Don't know where all that other stuff came from, but here is a link to my web site VIN page. VIN 1980 to 1989 The LSD wasn't standard on Fulltime 4WD GL-10s until 1989, and AWD wasn't on Subarus till the Legacy,

Here is what it looks like.

Someone explained it real well in another post recently, I think it was in the post on turbo rebuilding. It is common, I ran across one in a junkyard that was full of oil, which is probably why it was there. Anyway, I believe it has something to do with object 'C' in your photo, replacing the PCV will go a long way towards fixing that problem.

Brian, I must have 3 or 4 of those AAVs sitting around here, I pulled a bunch once figuring it is always good to have a spare. I might still have you address around here somewhere, but send me an e-mail and I'll send you one.

Yea, it sounds more like one of the sensors is sending the wrong info to the ECU. If the ECU was zapped, the car wouldn't even run.

Sorry, I meant to say, "Why don't you get....." instead of "Why did you get....." I checked their prices out and by the time I had all the machining done (like turned crank) and bought all the parts, I would have had almost as much into the rebuild as they had quoted me. So I had them do a rebuild for me.

Why did you get a rebuilt short block from CCR Inc. They built one for my, I had some rebuilt heads that I put on it, the motor is really strong. They do a go job, but they may have to charge you more since your block is not rebuildable.