Dr. RX

There is a tool that is used for pulling lifter out of an over head valve engine, it clamps itside the lifter, there is a small slide hammer with the tool, and you just tap the lifter out, I would imagine the same could be done with the Subaru wrist pin. I have such a tool, but haven't torn down a Subaru engine that far yet to find out if it does.

I had a guy interested in buying one of my EJ20 Turbos to do this same thing.

There is something about that link, I tried various methods to get something from the link and always got the same jpeg. Anyway, if you use a search engine, like Google.com, and type in G3X Justy, you will find several links. OK, I got one from an Italian site.

So, didn't you get this car for your mom?? Now you want to trade it for a car that she calls a 'tin can', and you expect her to be happy?? Why don't you talk with some of the techs at Carter, or maybe stop by Smart Services, I'm sure that they have more experience with these trannys that any of us old timers.

No problem, I just didn't understand where it was coming from. Too bad about the Outback, I hear it was a screamer.

Ok, a little lesson here. Your transmission is a transaxle because the front differential is part of the transmission, so in reading you post, what you are calling a transmission, is really a transaxle, and what you are calling a transaxle is really the front differential. It helps to know the correct terms when trying to explain things to people. Calebz, might be on the right track, I'd take it back and ask the shop who rebuilt your transaxle. If they did rebuild it, they should have replaced that seal. If they did and it leaks, then they installed it wrong and need to replace it, at their cost. Also, I believe the two fluids are different, with the differential fluid being heavier them the auto tranny fluid, seems to me that if there was a leak, it would be going the other way. Also, the bright red tranny fluid would start turning a dark brown as it gets deluted by the differential fluid.

Wagon, I think the difference is 10% not 10 PSI, but even at that dry there was more the 10% on the second reading, but it actually exceeded #2 when oil was added.

I was talking about the manifold. When you (Myaxlphyx) said, "...on your EJ18 setup?", I thought you were talking about the intake. I couldn't figure where the reference to an EJ18 was coming from. Hey Freak, Ed is moving soon, and I'm sure he'd like to move on less set of wheels, so you'd better get up there now.

I think I can answer some of these questions, but first, what EJ18 setup??? He used a spider intake off of an XT4 (EA82). Question 2, he made a lot of trips to the hardware store PVC section. He'll have to answer #3. #4, yes.

Looks good Tex, why don't you come over and we'll slap some 16's on there to see how that looks. Hey Freak, I thought you were buying a set of wheels from Ed Rachner??

One reason is that it is much simpler to install and air to air I/C. Installing a water to air I/C requires adding an elecrtic water pump, additiona tubing and an addition radiator (simpler to the condensor of the A/C system). Far more complex the just adding the air to air I/C. And unless you are in an area that has High temperatures, the water to air is not any better then the air to air.

Hard to say without being there, but Id say that you blew a vacuum line somewhere.

Almost anyplace that regrinds cams could do it for you as long as you have the specs you want it to be.

Yep, I've had 3 true RXs and one that had a RX VIN, but no RX markings, all were 3drs, one of them I sold to Richie, which is the last one he bought, I turned one of them into Ultimate RX, and the other was in my possession for about 6 hours before I sold it. The one that had the VIN, but no markings was scrapped.

Actually we call them 3drs, the two doors on the side and the hatch.

:lol: :lol: Ed, doesn't James have to finish the project first??? I seem to remember about two that he has hanging.

Brian, the sedans don't have the same aero kit that the 3drs do. They usually had a front air dam, a little flare thing by the rear door, and a rear spoiler that mounted on the trunk. PHAT, all of the EA82s have the same wheel base, and share most of the body parts. The only problem that I have heard about it putting the rear lower dam on a wagon, the lower valence (sp??) in different. I'm not sure about the EA81s, but they do seem to be about the same size, but I thing the EA82s are wider.

Sounds like a very good deal to me.

Well, it may take a few days to be back up, by the main URL will change, just a little, it will now be http://www.corkysrocks.net , I did this to expedite getting the site back up without trying to contact my old host. I will change my signature block when it has happened.

I'm going with my ISP, they are in a town near me, so if I have to, I can walk in there and find out what's going on. They have been great for my ISP, and I think with my package, I'm suppose to get a web site too, so I'll look into it on Monday. The site should be back up by the middle of the week.

Well, that is news to me, but I have been having trouble with the host. I'm going to change to a new host soon. What questions do you have about the conversion?

Zap, I told him to remove the carrier, that is the same as taking the guts out. I would never suggest that he drill and extract will it was still in the rear diff. OOPPPSSS, I forgot that this was Mike's old RX. Yea, like McBrat said, you don'y need to pull the diff to see if the bolt is missing or not.

The thing that gets me is that they are OEM wheels. What 80's cars came with these doughnut spares you are talking about, all the 80's series cars that I have, have full size spares.

Hey guys, the STi driver is a board member also, I think he currently goes by XT6Wagon. He used to live in Arizona.

Boy I'm surprized that you didn't call me about this one (actually looking at the time you posted this, I'm glad you didn't call). I'm sure the rear diff is the orginal, and if so, the stub axles are bolted to the differential. It could be like McBrat said, but you didn't say anything about finding a bolt in the stub axle. It could be that the last person who worked on the rear diff, never put the bolt back in. The main axle would have held it in place, so you wouldn't have noticed anything. I'd first look to see if there is a bolt in the stub axle, if not, then shine a flashlight into the hole where the axle came out, you should be able to see where the bolt would go. If you can see the hole, then the bolt is missing, if you see the end of the broken bolt, then you'll have your work cut out for you. You'll have to remove the rear diff, take the carrier out, and drill and extract the part of the bolt still in the carrier. You will probably have to buy the bolt from Subaru or get one out of an open diff at PAP.