wagonist

odometer is a cable directly from the transmission. Undo at the ends and see if it turns by hand. It's difficult to pull out of the back of the instrument cluster from under the dashboard (small hands with long arms & fingers with a steel grip are your friend). You may even find that someone hasn't pushed it back into the cluster previously. Tacho has a wire directly to the negative (yellow wire) side of the coil. If you pull the cluster out, see if the wire is connected with a multimeter.

I know this sounds like a weird topic, but hear me out. I'm doing a restoration with period accessories on my 88 touring wagon. It's going to end up with the checkered seats, etc + black trim from the 85-87 RX turbo. 20 years ago I installed a turbo engine, etc from an 85 JDM halfcut. I ended up crashing that car and a mate bought it from the auction & still has lots of the bits, including the climate control aircon. This was a dealer fit option & so it has an extra wiring loom which plugs into the original aircon plugs. Basically, it replaces the standard heater control panel which it's 5 buttons and lever with a push button panel. Also the fan control switch is removed and a dial with a digital readout just above (where the dash light panel is). For our models, the A/C switch & re-circ button on the other side of the cluster are replaced with blanking plates. My thoughts are to install this stuff into my series 2 dashboard. The heater control panel is easy, the "recirculating" button is where the temp control dial needs to go. The problem is that the series 2 moved the wiper control onto a column stalk and the fan control switch moved to where the wipers are on the series 1. Any ideas what to put in it's place? I've seen a picture and Subaru simply put a blanking plate in, which looks garbage. I've got every other blanking plate filled (except the manual choke position). Would it be possible to install a 2nd hazard switch? Always seemed stupid to me that it's way over near the door. Too bad if the passenger needs to push it the other hassle is that the LCD digital temp readout is in orange to suit the early model dash. Would it be possible to change this to green?

wow. Damn French

What are metric tyres? I've never heard of them and I live in a country which uses metric. All of our tyres come in rim diameter & width in inches... Tyre width is still listed in mm however, but that shouldn't make too much difference

Jono, Dunno why I can't quote... Anyway, working ECU is from a Vortex with the longer mounting ears (who's to say it hasn't been swapped before though, that plate just unscrews...), the rest are for mounting under the steering column. Haven't had a chance for my mate to bring his Vortex up (he's 1 1/2 hrs away) to do some swapping yet. Wet weather doesn't help.

Looks like some kind of aftermarket alarm or immobiliser

Have you pulled the steering column surround off & unscrewed the switch from the ignition barrel to check whether anything is broken?

Btw, do the motors in the doors work? Unplug them and connect the battery directly to check

Have you cleaned the switches? The contacts get coated with crud after time. Main controller is under the carpet under front seat. Both the switches on the door and main switch need to work for window to operate

Working ecu 22611 AA400 Usdm turbo 22611 AA630 Jdm turbo 22611 AA400 My mate is going to bring his spider manifold turbo Vortex over and we'll do some swapping to see what works in his car

Which number is the part number? There's several numbers on them. It's a mates' spare, and he'll want it back, hence looking for another. No chance he'll let it go ;P

dipstick is identical for every EA82, no matter whether carb, SPFI, MPFI, turbo, ... the block & sumps are the same no matter what, so you can get a replacement dipstick from any model Loyale

Yes, but a couple of things to note. The factory pump has a right angle exit line, most aftermarket pumps go exit straight. Secondly, the factory pump has a filter screen on its inlet. A lot of other cars have this screen inside the tank, so you'll need to add a filter between the tank and the pump if you don't want it to die due to some debris

After a lot of random head scratching trying to figure out why my turbo wagon wouldn't run on either it's original JDM ECU, or a USDM ECU, found a mate's spare ADM XT ECU, and the damn car starts. So seems like I had 2 dodgy ECUs. Is there any way to find out what the problem is with my original one to see if it can be repaired? Also found out that a bad alternator was causing the warning lights to stay on.

I think tomrhere had it backwards in terms of what car got which fans. Here, where it's mostly hot and dry, all the cars got an electric fan, it was only those with air-conditioning that also got the clutch fan. The aircon also patched onto the electric fan to bypass the temp sensor and be on permanently while the aircon was running

you'll break the ring around the speaker (if it's still the factory one) if you try to pull it off from the outside. It'll be a little difficult, but you can remove the door trim while the door is shut. might need to unbolt the bottom of the rear seat to give yourself some room. Have you checked whether that door is locking/unlocking? Have you manually tried to unlock it instead of relying on the central locking? Sometimes that motor gets gummed up, or the linkage comes adrift. Remove the inside door handle surround & arm rest first. You may, with a little force, get the B pillar trim off to give you some access to get behind the door trim Get a strong but thin piece of metal, bend it to 90 degrees, and then try to twist it under the door trim to pop the clips. Fortunately, they are all around the edge about 2" in from the edge, none in the middle. The door trim is supposed to be pulled upwards with the clips undone to release the top section, but you can lever this part over with the window down. This may give you better access to undo the clips. At least enough to get an arm in. Be careful of the power window switch plug, but I think there's a lot more slack in the rear wires, than the front. ideally, try to go have a look a car in the wreckers first, so you can see what fits where underneath.

Yes, the power steering reservoir cap. The symptoms I suggest happen all the time regardless of speed, although you may not feel it as much once moving, but will definitely be noticeable.

Sorry, I need them for myself. It took 4 or 5 separate shipments to get all 8 parts part numbers though, are: upper LH: 65041GA170 lower LH: 65041GA210 upper RH: 65041GA160 lower RH: 65041GA200

But what brakes to run then? you're still running standard brakes. I think the idea is to get an upgrade that standard replaceable parts will fit onto. The 5x100 is a known conversion that's achievable. Any turbo conversion here is supposed to be approved. Usually, that means a brake upgrade. factory 4wd disc brake rear ends are thin on the ground

I've got some new from Subaru chrome corner pieces at home. I'll see if they've got a part number. Got a full set including the strips. Wasn't cheap

btw, I think I've asked before, but why aren't you using the 4 pin TPS?

attached is a pic of how the 3 pin tps is fitted to my engine In terms of the dizzy vacuum advance, there's an extra vacuum line draped across the top of the engine which comes out of a nipple on the rear, top, right of the manifold just near where the TB is bolted on. I know that this motor had the dizzy timing locked and was using the dizzy that matched the black ECU, not the spider manifold

That would be cool. The guy I got my spider engine off still has a genuine ADM spider turbo Vortex. But Subaru here aren't that good at looking up part numbers for older cars Either that, or a tracing of them to get reproductions made? seen some weird mountings of turbos. Including a V8 Commodore with the turbos down where the rear mufflers were. Bit laggy

I've got one of those engines which wasn't written about. The guy who built it doesn't reckon he did what I've said about the TPS, but there's no other way considering the way it's mounted. I'll see the other car in Qld next week. It's partially disassembled in an RX turbo (and also with the dual range AWD box with diff lock). Where did you get the gaskets from? I'm loath to disassemble this engine without knowing where to get replacement bits...

I don't think the Brat counts, seeing as it's just the body mounted onto another chassis I've seen a Toyota 1JZ turbo with matching RWD trans mounted into an early Legacy wagon. Let's just say that a lot of the transmission tunnel was cut out and replaced, and it's not road registerable