TurboSPFI

are you talking about that ruguru guy?

pics?

link didnt work...

Just to let you guys know... YOU GOT WAY OFF TRACK!

BTW, I would like to keep my EA82 5 spd D/R unless something like 4.11:1 is available ALSO, if I were to do the swap, is the EJ22 wiring harness compatable with the EJ25 motor?

I know its been done and I'm considering doing it, but I need a list of things to buy. What mods will I be doing. Lil help here? Thanks ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- List of stuff: Chiltons/Haynes for Wiring Diagram Reference 1. EJ22 2. EJ22 exhaust header 3. Mudrat's Adapter Plate 4. Wiring Harness (Kennedy engineering 20$ wiring harness?) complete car wiring harness, yes the whole thing, preferably one from a manual trans. car intake tubing for EJ22, with MAF sensor 5. EA82 flywheel redriled for EJ22 crankshaft bolt pattern 6. XT6 clutch components(pres. plate, clutch disc) 7. MPFI fuel pump of some kind, inline pump, not in-tank pump, wire it to ignition Installation: Modified Radiator? Redrilling Flywheel? Flywheel bolt pattern differences? the radiator hoses are going to be "fun" and you should get a 12'' long 1.25'' dia. flexible radiator hose for the top, and a 18'' long 1.25'' dia. radiator hose for the bottom, longer so it wont kink and restrict coolant flow. Reference Sites: http://www.outbackmotors.com/ http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142

I personally dont care about bearings or the races.. But I think Andyjo hit the nail right on the head with the whole pesky rock reply.

Run it into the cab... ok, just kidding..

Do you mean the SPFI ECU is the same as the MPFI ECU? If so, wheres this "fuel cut" I'm supposed to get?

why? i just bolted the hub up and used the other 2 holes (the ones with the studs knocked out) as a drill guide.. i have no balancing issues and my car goes down the road smoothly.. thats why i said,

i wouldnt go the air control valve route... i think your wasting your money.

SO! it came back... water pump next, although, the turbo radiator still cools 100% better. 180 thermostat will go in next, might run the 192, but until i find out whats the deal on the temp, ill go with the safer 180.

not really, the mud gets caked behind the rings too

replace em all.. those are all 3 very important peices of info for the computer to rely on

or get very lucky like i did.. the two holes that line up do a VERY good job of keeping things centered

i went to pick one up the day of install, but it was after hours and schucks was closed.. just a rough guess, but i'd say im around 150 without a tstat (guessing according to where 180 degrees sits) ill go buy a 180 later

it was the radiator.. i installed a new CSF radiator for a turbo model (2 core).. WOW!! this thing is COOL! literally, my temp bearly comes above "C", just high enough to go into closed loop (no thermostat installed)

u might just have a p.o.s. gauge

does your voltage gauge fluctuate? if so, i'd start lookin for connection problems

symptoms did get better for about a week when i did a radiator flush, but the problem just came back again... (but it is better after the flush)

ok so heres the deal: this isnt on my turbo wagon either, but when i idle in traffic, my temp goes up... (pretty standard) fan wont bring the temp down (somethings not right here, yes fan works, it didnt before so i hardwired it to a switch) driving just maintains this temperature until i stop again and it starts to rise driving straight and uphill = no cooling effect 90% of time driving downhill = cooling effect 200%! why is it only cooling when i go down hill? only thing i can think of is radiator? i dont understand how a water pump would be in the equation if im cooling going downhill and not uphill?

10 hp?! *runs to start porting/polish!*

also, on the coolant lines, if you decide to go my route with tapping into the heater core lines... go with the pump side and not the return line you have to "T" around... what I mean is simply by just cutting the hose in half and hooking it up wont work, the flow is reduced extremely (by the turbo, and down to a trickle!!) and will make you overheat.. I T'd into the heater core line twice.. basically, the flow straight through is adequate to cool (so far), and the turbo gets adequate cooling (so far )

i run a SPFI (9.5:1 comp) block with a VF2. No intercooler Does good so far.. Havent hit the "fuel cut" as everyone describes also (referring to people with the EA82T fuel setup) coolant lines - I tapped into the heater core lines for coolant Note: Oil Supply Line may need to be lengthened if your turbo is mounted differently than stock, same with the return line Oil Supply Line - theres a hole on the oilpump for the oilline, on a SPFI its got a plug in it, just take it out and run your line oil return - you can figure this out yourself But i tapped into the oilpan