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Find the EGR valve follow the rubber control hose to the solenoid. Measure the coil resistance of the solenoid should be around 35 ohms. If infinity (open) it's toast. Very common problem. Gat a similar solenoid from almost any Honda or Toyota of that era and change the connector. Plenty of posts on this subject, sir. Hope this helps.

Excuse me sir, would you care to elaborate on this, as the only SUB dual port on EA81's I know of is the turbo version. It has the injectors mounted in bosses that are cast into the head. Are these heads a RAM product or some Euro version of the EA81 we did not get? Being from Sussex do you happen to know Mike that used to frequent this forum? He got married and kinda fell off this side of the pond. Last seen driving a very nice Legacy turbo wagon.

Howdy Ben, The Circuit Breaker part is a mystery. There is a CB inside the wiper motor wiring (locked wipers due to ice ect) but the car was not equiped with one from the factory for the blower. At any rate, I got out my 1981 Factory Sevice Manual (FSM) and looked up your wiper wiring system. Cougar is correct as usual, your wiper motor runs on 12 Vdc. At the wiper motor plug (unplugged) (the end connected to the car's harness) you should get these voltages. Note: the Black with Yellow tracer (BY) is the ground wire, do not go to frame of the wiper motor as it may be isolated for wiper parking control. It shows fuse # 7 as the wiper fuse. In all positions the Blue (L) wire is energized with + 12 V in reference to the BY wire. sw. off........L - -> BY = +12V sw on low....Green/Yellow - -> BY = +12V sw on high...Blue/Yellow --> BY = +12V Hope this helps with the trouble shooting. I will go into the parking position control if you need.

I had this happen when the antifreeze mix was too weak and the coolant in the rad froze

After following Tom's advise and if all seems normal Look down the bore and verify the secondary throttle plate is closed.

So yea askth "Bottom line is that I don't even know what it looks like! Would anyone be able to send me a photo of the relay or perhaps lead me to a web link where it shows one?" And I showth

The choke plate should move freely when the engine is warm. The return spring is rather weak and is located inside the choke housing. When cold, the bi-metal choke operating "spring" should make it more difficult to move. This carb should have two vacuum pull off diaphragms to open the choke once the engine starts. They are located to the pass side rear of the carb. If I post a picture of your carb with these items annotated would it help? Having you use the correct nomenclature may help diagnose your problem. It would also be of value to someone trying to help you repair it. Another thought that crossed my feeble mind is The fuel level in the bowl is too high or the needle and seat or float is knackered. Thus while running it is constantly leaking gas into the intake manifold/engine.

One of the main concerns is that of the fuel system. You do not say if the 87 is 4wd If it is, it is a carbed engine if it's 2wd it's SPFI (fuel injected) One having an ECU (2wd , SPFI) the other does not. (note you also do not give a location, therefore this may not be true in your part of the planet) If it is SPFI, I would recco going with the GD conversion. (GD = General Disdorder, he has writen an excellent manual for this) If not I'd go with a Weber and reduce the Hitachi problems assiociated with the polution controls for that year. Again if you are in the Honduras please ignore this post.

very clean gotta luv the graphite holders I used black golf Tees

I have several EJ22's a couple EJ22T's and an EJ25 (all 97 and earlier) I have never seen a coil pack like yours The NGK ends are what all mine have.

I hope so Tommy I just have to say thanks again for the great deal. Sorry also that you had to make it.

The points issue sound like 1) Bad condersor (since you changed that maybe rule it out) 2) Ballast resistor by passed or shorted. It's mounted on the coil. If it is by passed too much voltage is put on the points. Here is a picture PS change the dist to an electronic one See my post "dist conversion point to electronic" The choke issue. I just had to change (repair) the heating coil in the choke housing on one of my 78 Brats. If it does not heat the bi-metal choke spring the choke stays closed. My heating coil was broken right next to the connection screw. I can do pictures of this problem. If you want me to please ask. EZ test remove air filter housing plug vacuum lines start engine wait two minutes feel choke control housing should be very warm to the touch and choke should be open. Hope this helps

Since the "never fail" button works this might help

Hi Tommy, Yea, that's it. Decided to clean/adj the points and fix the choke heater. (Choke was still propped open with the stick from your yard) Fired right up after hot wiring the fuel pump to fill the bowl. I'll be changing the dist and putting a Weber on it come ??? Nothing to cry about, she is still a long way from done. She will be painted as factory --- Pearl Silver Metalic

what year did they switch to the Hall effect speed 0 sensor, that the 97 uses, verses the cable driven one? Gloyale is correct as far as the 97's go, my 97 does not have a shift indicator My 97 Oh Bee

Thanks for the help and suggs Russ I found your write up nice job. For others that may find this post in searching for how to's try this http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50403 Here is a picture of the ballast resistor and the radio noise suppresser

Thanks for the help Russ, I searched for a write up and did not turn up anything close. I'll look under your name and see what I find.

One of my 78 Brats is at the body shop. Painter/bodydude says he can't get it started. Had been running fine. The choke on the carb is propped open and can not close. But He thinks quote "it's loaded up" I am going to look at it on Monday (12/08/2008) Maybe the points closed up or are toast and the spark is weak. I'm going to take an electronic dist out of an 81 that I have. Is there anything special I have to rewire (ballast resistor bypass maybe?) to install the electronic dist. I do not have an engine wiring diagram for this unit. I will have a timing gun to set the intial advance. Thanks for any insight, this is my first foray into Gen I EA71s.

I'm with John Sure sounds like a weak oil /gas mix. I've seen chainsaws do this with a weak mix.

Mr. Simbley sir, Please excuse this massive 20 hour delay in getting you a response. It is my understanding that the device you have pictured does not circulate coolant as you say but diverts the oil to and from the cooler . The oil cooler on my 91 SS is a free standing unit and does not use engine coolant for cooling. Maybe some plumbing is knackered? Please with all haste tell us where you got this information.

You are most welcome Pix. It is a convoluted system under there, but it sure sounds like you have a firm handle on it. Good luck, mate. P.S. don't forget to check the check valve in the system. I have not seen it mentioned. All vacuum can be lost when going up a hill if it is not functional or has been by passed. It should be incorporated in the white vacuum storage canister on the shelf behind the pass strut tower.

Opus, All is kewl. I know the need to supplement the lame lights on our cars. Your project is a very worth while endeavor. It is very possible some other members may gain knowledge from your work. As I said good luck and I hope you work it out. The offer of a wiring diagram still stands.

you guys seem to miss the fact that Opus wants these on ONLY when the low beams are on. The parking light connection will have them on anytime the parking lights are on, the headlights are on (hi or low) or the virgin switch is on. Maybe I missed the subject of the original post? If so I'm sorry and do apologize.

The AC system is controlled via a microswitch. This microswitch is activated by a rod that moves anytime the HVAC system is in the AC, AC Max, or Defrost position Some vacuum servo is moving this rod. As a stop gap you could disconnect the microswitch Shown here

I believe behein is corn-fused as to the operation of DS C This solenoid opens a "drain" for the hyd pressure going to the clutch pack that locks the rear drive to the front. When DS C fails the drain for the hyd is closed and all hyd pressure is fed to the clutch pack - thus locking the rear drive to the front. The FWD fuse tells the ECU to send a signifigant duty cycle signal to DS C thus opening the drain and not allowing any hyd pressure to reach the lock up clutch pack.