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Brian, Cougar is correct the wire color he mentions as white with red is the "L" terminal of your first diagram, lower wire on your second diagram The alt function happens as both of you describe. When the alt has and output the voltage from it cancels (so to speak) the ground you mention. Sort of off setting penalties if you will. When the alt goes toast (i.e. no output) the ground wins and all lights on the circuit come on. Bet that makes it clear as chocolate milk BTW your second post has the "S" terminal (white wire) missing.

well done Frag!!! It is pretty common around these parts to be told to use OEM spark plug wires. NGKs are also recco'd Happy and smooth running New Year

Mick here is a shot of the JVC CD head unit Tommy put in my 78 The detachable face plate is a nce touch.

is this for your Camero or your Austin Healy Sprite? opps wrong forum just when people put out statements / questions with no engine/fuel system/year well what do they want us to do guess?? The thottle body on the newer EJ series (MAP sensor types) likes a volume of air directly in front of it. Does that help??

One more thing about the rotor If this is an SPFI EA82. the rotor is held on my a small screw, blue loctite is a good idea when replacing it.

Then please also do as Gloyale says and get an OEM thermostat. No transmission is mentioned but if it's automatic a fluid flush ia also a good idea.

" If donut spare goes on front I guess there is no issue?" Sorry MAJOR issue, if you get a flat on the front your owners manual will tell you transfer a rear to the front, put the donut on the rear, insert fuse drive to a service station "Could someone tell me what AMP fuse I should use for this if I ever put the spare on so I can keep one available in the spare tire kit?" Any fuse will do, use one of the spares already in your fuse box. some people say 15A but it is a very small current that passes through it. It does not connect directly to the duty C AWD control solenoid, only to the logic circuits in the TCU Infildel: Excusing your post hijack, look around the same area many times the cover is missing and you will only see two female spade connectors standing verticly

If you prove it to be the relay here is what you are looking for

Phiz As I'm sure you know the first part is balancing the carbies (I used to work on Triumphs, AHs and Jags all with multiple air/fuel mixers.) Use a "unisyn" or a hose to your ear they must match air flow first. Raise the throttle a bit, they must "take off" the same amount. Then set them both at about 1.5 turns out working one - turn out till it stubles, turn in till it stumbles set half way inbetween. Do the other the same way. Recheck balance strart over if it changed. They can be buggers, but with time and patience you will perservere.

correct this mark by the way positions the pistons at their half way travel in the cylinders if the heads were off you would see all pistons at the same position

like the wise Bratman says it is a fuse not a "plug" It forces the transmission computer to stay in Front Wheel Drive (FWD) The holder for the fuse is shown below. It is there for use when having the donut spare fitted. (which should only be on the rear) It must then stay in FWD because it is a different dia. than the other tires. There has been no documented proof that having it in helps in any way.

Chuck, here is a real deal PM "Tailgatewagon" he lives in your town and will set you up - proper.

I moved you post for better coverage The distributor in your SPFI car is a CAS - Crank Angle Sensor insides shown here The 85 has a more or less conventional electronic dist. completely different. Have you changed your fuel filter lately?

Pass side door lock tumbler has the key number on it. title to Subaru dealer - key made hot wire to coil positive and hot wire to small spade conn. on starter (removed after start) still no steering though??

how do you plan to defeat the steering wheel lock? if you are breaking out "the tools' pop the lock and use a screw driver for a key.

I hope he has the common sense to get a title or bll of sale or what not. Sounds like the owner has split the scene. Shame to fix it haul it and have some unknown walk up with the fuzz and say "Hey that's my car!!"

somebody tried running leaded Avgas?

email the guy and get a "ball park" figure on the STi lump an stuff Betcha it's at least ten times what you paid for your Loyale. Sorry, I don't see a paper route paying for it.

"Sank"??? Sorry mate, it does say NON forked

1994 Loyal?? Must have been the last year for them. Listen to what Bratman says, he speakth with non forked tongue Open the intake, free up the exhaust and wait for an EJ22 to come your way.

Sorry about your mis-fortune if you tell us what the car/engine/year is someone might have a quik tip to get you rollin'

Hard to say for sure, but you should be fine as long as no parts are broken off and floating around in the tranny. 952.2's post on the internal shaft being broken comes to mind. I'd stick the FWD fuse in to minimize what is driven in the rear clutch pack area.

what Screw says is only true for newer Oh Bees and wagons Older Legacy wagons and sedans do not have this feature.

Sorry to tell you mate, but Caboo and Turbone have hit the wood holder on the cranium I had the exact same thing happen to my GL-10 Hard to explain I know. Almost bit the steering wheel first time it happened. Seat belts are great. I did find if you always keep the front wheels driving (left foot on the brake, right on the gas slightly) The car will move. The front diff pinion bearing goes bad, this in turn takes out the seal between the tranny and the diff. (bet you can smell gear oil on the tranny dipstick) The bearing allows the pinion to shift into a position where it locks with the bevel gear. Thus the forward drive keeps it in a position where it will not lock. 3AT trannys are not even fit as a sea anchor. 5 speed DR swap (pedal box is easier with the streering col. removed.) as all say is the ticket. If you could find an RX (hen's tooth) tranny it would be even more phun. PS a member "Davebugs" is a serious air cooled Vdube phreak His collection is astounding.

I'm possibly going to go this route also. I read the entire post linked to bu subiemech and found the Hondasucks article outlining this proceedure is no longer available. I went through the new USRM (the old one is not available) saw the GM and the XT6 but not the External to Internal VR swap. Anybody have it "stashed"