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nice job on the pictures and all There is a line on turbo cars that connects to the MAF to turbo pipe. This line lets a lot of oil vapor enter the tube. One of these would be perfect placed in line with this hose.

Thats correct sir, If you want to test it the Factory Service Manual shows for 68 deg F the resistance should be 2.0 - 3.0 kilo OHMS for 176 deg F the resistance should be 0.3 - 0.4 kilo OHMS Here is a procedure for changing it with some good pictures http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/CoolantTempSensor.html

here is one I should not disclose but EA series FI cars have a fuse for the ECU and fuel pump. Using a fuse tap, I run the wires through a fuse of the correct amperage. This wire then runs to the contact of a 12 v relay. The other side of the contacts, completes the circuit to the fuse panel. In this fashion, the relay must be closed for the engine to operate. The relay coil is controled by a hot supplied in series with the cig lighter. A separate fused hot is run to the cig lighter. This needed as the cig lighter is not energized when the key is in the "start" position. When the cig lighter is pushed in, the relay closes and the car will run. The relay coils resistance prevents the lighter from getting hot enough to "pop out" as it usauly does. For added security, take the lighter with you. If you do the nasty, carry a Bic.

Howdy Ross, Hearty welcome to the USMB nothing to add from what has been said except "Fix It Again Tony" like you never heard that before -right!!

My apologies then sir, as it seems you have addressed the areas where I have seen issues. Which as I said, have nothing to due with the sealing of the glass.

Bill - great thread. Maybe you should rename it "New Leaf" I have a "new leaf" as you see. This being to get people to use the almighty "enter key" more often. How much easier is it to absorb and understand what someone is saying if there are breaks in the paragraph. Sorry for this interuption, I hope you understand.

I am going to addess this from a point of view you may not like. The seal around sun/moon roofs will eventualy leak. Dried out gaskets, not closed properly ect. The factory knew this and thus the drains we all know about. Now the problem I have seen is wicking of H20 under the channel (rail) that supports the glass. This can allow H20 to migrate into the area where it will be introduced into the headliner area. You may want to look closely at that possibility. It will not cause "to pour water all over me after running through a carwash?" But I saw no reference to this calamity in the opening post. Sorry please accept my apology if this is not conducive to your problem.

" thanks, Bill" And thanks to you Bill!! Very well stated and sometimes called "Follow up" People using the "search " would be helped aslo. Sure would be nice if more people that got help returned the favor by following up with "That was the the fx it was the......." Well said sir, lets hope you bringing it light helps.

As Shawn said, I believe it is a Zener diode. From the below link "Zener diodes are widely used to regulate the voltage across a circuit" http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zener_diode

must be my butt but my passenger seat outer bolster is the one that don't get heated yea I know - "It must be Yer a lame a$$"

You found this out by?????? Do you see a small wire running from the top of the rad to the core support? You should, as it is the ground for the fan. Well I don't know what to make of this. But if the T-stat was not opening the temp would go high enough to turn the fan on. This is true, but why is there no coolant in the rad?? Leave the cap off, start the car, and keep a drain pan under the front. keep filling until the engine temp is up to op temp for several minutes Cap on and fill coolant bottle to min. Sugg, use and OEM t-stat NOT a Stant replace the cap while you are at it.

Frank kicked out the skinny here is a little bit more on what he said number 1 cylinder is the pass side front cyl. Follow the spark plug wire to the dist. I probably goes to the tower closest to the master cyl. plug the spark plug Using a 7/8" socket on a rachet bring the crankshaft clock wise around to see 0 deg TDC in the small window in the back of the engine on the pass side bell housing. Now turn the crank shaft another 2/3 revolution Place a small cotton ball on the spark plug hole Bring the crankshaft around again to 0 deg IF the cotton ball jumped you are on compression for #1, if it did not jump, rotate the crank another turn and it should jump. Put the dist in so that the rotor points to the #1 spark plug tower you found on the first step. Fire that beast up. If it's a SPFI or turbo plug the green connectors together and set the timing to 20 BTDC with a timing light (check your manual for proper degrees) unplug connectors Hope this helps

compression test will tell you if it slipped pull the distributor cap check the rotor it is held on by a screw, they fall out sometimes spark, fuel, and comp. to make fire in the hole Gotta start somewhere

I believe Mr. Bheinen is refering to these

wadsupwidis mini mirror and a window surround?

This post is getting a bit away from the original question but You might want to look at the fins on the radiator, front side down low They tend to delaminate from the cooling tubes. You do not mention AC, it can change the fan wiring. Follow Mr Greenley's advice. then if you want the best of both e.g. a rad thermoswitch and cockpit switch both controlling a relay) Try this diagram I made up for you standard lighting relay 12 AWG for the power 18 AWG for the switch gear.

Mike I think he means the one just north of Concord on I 85. You did see he mentions NC didn't you ? not MD Looks like it would be quite the drive from CA I'll be going through NC next week but will be on the coast, I'd like to at least see it.

sumtin like this? I put this together to ship it to the mid east a few years ago

Very nice, I guess the don't use much salt in Puerto Rico?

have you ever noticed the rad fans running at a strange time? If so the FI coolant thermosensor wants changed.

good luck, I checked a couple I have but one Hitachi is for an EA71 - it's secondary is mechanical the other I found quickly is for an EA82 and it has the diaphragm operated secondary, but it's connected internaly. I'll keep digging, if I find the proper type I'll post a picture of the seconday diaphragm. I did see a picture on here recently of the unit in question. Found it thanks to "Brown Muscle" The part that is missing is the part you need to look at. Funnel shapped thing . How lame is that??? read up on it here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=93320&highlight=secondary

Bill, since you are using it for parts first part to take off is a front axle It should roll both ways then.

could you possibly be connecting a vacuum line to the seconday throttle plate diaphragm by mistake. Both carbs would then do the rev to the max gig. Note: I would have to go get one to verify the secondary throttle plate diaphragm is external on the EA81 HiTachi.

If you don't connect them together, she will fire up and then die as soon as the key returns to the run position. The diagram I saw has a "start bypass" of the ballast resistor to give full voltage when cranking. This to offset the battery voltage drop when the starter is engaged.

No sir, I readily admit, I am not "perfect" by a long way. You also have a fine day sir. This post is closed.