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"Why add a silly light?" Because sir, As you made poignantly clear if it stays open I could be, you think, fined for "excessive noise"??? and if it did not open, you think, I could trigger a CEL Thanks for reading so carefully before you post. Better disconnect your "silly" scan gauge.

That is ludicrous. It is the to give a lowering of back pressure. Why it would throw a CEL if I put a switch activated by the control arm to light a light to tell me when it's open? Excessive noise!!! Come on Nipper!!

sorry this valve opens at some elevated air flow (RPM) and I never know if it's open or not. No performance difference is noted as I rarely go that hard on it. Be nice to rig a switch on the valve to show when it's open. I would if I could get the cap off of the actuation arm.

It was once stated ?on the internet? that carbs are set up mixture wise to ingest air at 100 deg F The thermo switch is placed inside the air cleaner in the air flow going into the carb to maintain this temp.

how will I know when it isn't working

speaking of mufflers I wonder how long the fancy rear muffler with the built in auto bypass works?

Since they are both based on the same platform and no major changes have been done in those model years. It should fit. Might want to peek at the sway bar mounts and sizes. The turbo model is different than the NA version.

This thread is getting high jacked to high heaven Start a new post please. Subynut is right on. Since we have never been told what car this is I'll guess an EA82 series For the driver's side head light the wires/colors are as follows; Red/blue ---- hot (+12v) from the left side headlight fuse --------------This will show +12v anytime the ig switch is on --------------and the headlights are on (high or low beam) Red/white ---- high beam (shows a ground via the hi/low switch when --------------- in the "high" beam position) Red/black ---- (shows a ground via the hi/low switch when --------------- in the "low" beam position) Wire your relay coil across the Red/blue and red/white wires It will then work as you wish. (ON with the high beams only) Here is a post if you want to take the time to learn about it... complete with a headlight wiring diagram. That gentleman wanted his on with the low beams. Hope this helps. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=93347&highlight=filament

Mick I'm sure you are going to "Weberize" it at some point. But if you want try another carb, I have a pretty clean EA71 Hitachi on the bench. I'll send you. Email or PM me if you want. I'll get it out first thing Monday morning.

that "core plug" can be a bugger to get loose

Thanks Mick, I sit corrected I have only worked on two XT6 flywheels and a half dozen or so EA82T units. I guess it is a possibility that the XT6 units were cut incorrectly before I worked on them. I'll save your posted chart for future work, thanks again.

EJ22T comes to mind EZ30 might fit How much work do you want to do? and how much $$ you have to spend? are two questions that need answers

why not by pass the thermo vacuum valve and feed it constant vacuum for now? Strange that two air cleaners both have bad thermo valves. Have you checked for vacuum at the valve? Done any work on the fuel lines? I've never seen fuel line freeze up on a Subaru though. Some dry gas many not be a bad idea.

Mick, the ones I have worked on are all EA82Ts Is the flywheel part number different for a D/R vs a Turbo I may have an XT6 and a EA82T in the shop. I'll double check what my old timers brain thinks it remembers.

it is best to ground the lights on the neg. terminal of the battery Remember all the juice going to the lights has to return to the battery. If the bumper is rusty or gets rusty where it mounts to the frame it could cause the lights to dim. I hope you are planning on using a relay.

thank you, and that's affirmative sir I take about 6 lb off of the EA82T's flywheel. Less off of an XT6 as they are already lighter by a couple pounds. I do not offer this service at this time.

sorry to confuse you By no "valve" I meant a valve for controlling coolant flow through the heater core. Some cars use this as a way to control the temperature of the air output.

If when having the outer CV serviced the entire axle (half shaft) was replaced the magnets are probably gone as they are glued (JB weld epoxy ect) and wire ties to the DOJ. Now on some CCs I've installed you have the choice of using the magnets OR tapping the tach (RPM) signal. The magnets give a better control of the speed especially when an auto tranny is fitted. Again, you might want to find the magic black box and "internet-vestigate" to see if this is a possibility.

"does anyone have the spec. for ea82 and xt6 flywheel step?" Ive taken meat off of quite a few of these (EA82T and XT6s) and the step is the same. I do take an extra 0.020" off the PP mounting lip but too much and the PP will not release the disc

I doubt sheet metal screws would hold. You can make a tap if you have a bolt and a file or grinder. File a small slot perpendicular to the theards This will be for chips. Taper the end of the threads slightly. Drill the correct size hole for tapping the size bolt you have and use some lube for cutting fluid. Push on the bolt to get it started, bingo.

I drilled and tapped the bumper beam, no nut needed. I'm sure you've seen this before but here it is again

We've got the 2003 VDC model The VDC is the mutts nutz in the snow. The McIntosh stereo is fantastic! When McIntosh agreed to put this head unit in the Outback, the engineers made Subaru agree to changes in the interior and sound proofing. I own another Oh Bee plus a few normal Legacys and have riden in many others. Ours by far feels and sounds more solid than any of them. We run midgrade and get about what Dave does. If you go this EZ30 ( H6) route your oil changes become paramont Read this thread for why http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84524&highlight=timing+chain

Here in the states we do not see an EJ25D Could you explain what it is? Is there any chance that the exhaust is plugged up causing massive back pressure? Intake valve bent due to timing belt breaking. Fixed the belt but didn't check for valve damage? Can you do a compression test?

This is just a wild guess There is a fuse that runs the ECU and the fuel pump. If the fuse is loose (not likely) or the wire to the fuse (on the back of the fuse box) is loose.... Maybe the speed bump knocked it off just so, it sits and cold or something causes it to close connection, 20 meters and the vibration causes it to come loose again. Now it's not making connection and the fuel pump is not getting it's signal. Just attempting to connect the speed bump to the problem. Just for your trouble shooting info The fuel pump gets battery power (+ 12 Vdc) anytime the ignition switch is in the run position. The ECU provides the negative side to the pump for several seconds after the key is turned to start and released or when ever the engine is running. (and the cycling you hear when the green connectors are connected) Hope this helps.

how do you verify that the JDM unit had the same ratio as a US model? Maybe that why it's been "on the shelf"??