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sorry Dave I do not know but they did a fine job. Thanks again for the follow up. People in the future will find the art. by doing a search here on the board.

no, do not start the engine

do you know where they are and how to test the fusible links? I checked the FSM and the same fusible link does NOT run the wipers and the headlamps. Might be worth a look to see if it's snow packed. Hope there is a taxi service in your town.

or maybe

sumtin like this?

Cody it sometimes helps if your post tile describes the situation you tell us what year and model of Subaru it is. Sounds like you blew a fusible link.

to follow up what Gloyale says this light is also known as the oxygen monitor light It is right where he says. This is an older unit but the light hole should be the same. You might want to plug together your green connectors by the drivers side hood hinge This will make the light flash. Key must be in the run position for it to flash.

Mighty nice Mick I swear they must be twins My "Goldie"

No worries Dave, I had searched also and had trouble finding it. I did find this one http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/clutch.html It's not in our repair manual (USMB) but it does have some good pictures. For some reason the link needs copied and pasted using my browser.

the only thing I see missing from your most excellent list is High test gas Doesn't this result in about a 11:1 comp ratio?

_14mm = 0.551" -35/64 = 0.547" ------ = 0.004" pretty darn close

Mr. Fizz-in-za Sir, I agree it sounds like excess fuel is burning and or at times exploding in the exhaust system. We both know for this rapid oxidation to occur three main elements are needed.... fuel and 02 with ignition. You do not mention any camshaft changes but a man of your potential and resources, well I have to ask? If there is sufficient overlap in the cam profile it can lead to the sound we have hear. Next the ignition timing comes into play as the over lap and the timing of the spark will allow ignition to progress through the cylinder and into the exhaust. Retard the spark (pull back the timing some blokes call it) and see it it changes the situation. Did you by chance check the balance of the air flow at any points above idle? The point I am looking for is why is there extra fuel that remains unburned and finds it's way down stream. Could the carbs be jetted to rich (like maybe they are both set up to run by them self on a mono carb manifold)? We both know a rich mixture results in exhaust backfiring, where as a lean mixture will cause backfiring through the carbie. Hope some of this helps. Way of the wall: are not pits great, I put one in my shop when I built it, sure makes life easier sometimes. Don't see them around much anymore as ins. regulation are tight. Lifts seem to rule these days. Nice job on the sound video!!

Dave, thank you for the follow up. Would you be so kind as to post a link to the clutch cable replacement art. The title for your post is also very good Titles such as your help the search feature work.

nice score bet you'll have some real fun with it My 91 SS is one of the nicest rides I've had. Reminds me of a 450 SL I once owned. As for the sunroff please read this They leak is most likely due to bad / deteriorated gaskets under the guide rails. This subject is covered in detail over on Legacy Central. Which is a great source of info on these gems.

Sorry for the delay Below is your lighting diagram. I would dive under the dash where the wires come down from the steering col. Find the connector for the high/low switching shown on the right hand side of the diagram. It is called the "Dimmer Switch" ID it by the wire colors shown. (B, RY, RW, RB) Then Run a grounded wire to the terminal in the harness side that has the Red/white wire. With the key on the high beams and the dash indicator should light. If they do not, then A) you have a broken wire maybe at the connector shown at the top or if that checks then silverhelm's solution maybe the answer. your dimmer switch is knackered, test for continuity between the RW and B wires going to the switch Hope this helps

1) change the fluid by draining into a pan. 2) measure what you drained out 3) subract one quart and replace it with a quart of Lucus transmission honey or TransX 4) refill with new fluid plus additive, 5) check the trans fluid level when hot and running in nuetral If you feel real ambitious ....pull the pan and clean the filter (its a screen you can clean)

I believe so two will be for the idle switch the third for the potentiometer wiper arm, One of the first two will be a "common" bewteen the two devices. Using your multimeter set on ohms you should be able to identify the two for the idle switch. The reading will go from 0 to infinity when the switch is turned. The other will progressively change resistance.

sorry mate no high beam relay headlight relay left headlight relay right Hi/low beam controled via the turn stalk switch. I found a diagram, just have to get it scanned and uploaded. Sorry for the redundancy, I've been digging and didn't see your post. Easiest way to test a lamp is to use a multimeter set on ohms or run a couple wires (clip leads) from the battery

one of our sites most honorable administrators "Shadow" is a Mega guru on MegaSquirt. He did most of the early developemnt work on it here.

I'll get the FSM and see what I can dig up. Your Brat does have four headlamps - correct? That is absolutely correct sir.

"The weird thing is that the fuses are for the left and right sides of the car," That is designed in case you have a fuse blowing short in one side, both sides don't go out - leaving you as Stevie Wonder on a dark street. "so having the low beams working means that the fuses are fine, right?" Correct. Have you invstigated the possibility of the lamps being burned out? There are two filaments in the low beams, maybe both sides the high beam filament is toast. As are both high beam lamps - unliely but possible. I belive "silver helm" meant to say "open" not "short" as a short would blow fuses. I'll get out the FSM for your car if you want and get you some wire colors.

got mine from "Santa" Davebugs

" Probaly the random sensor i found un hooked," Is this the senor in question?

Carb juice = carb cleaner = flamable spray 1999 = OBD II = scan tool of some sort and yes it will show the missing VSS but it may show other problems. Some auto parts houses will do this for free Did you change the engine or just the tranny? Canada, aye This is a Brighton model no doubt.

Mr. Simbey, The place Cougar refers to is not the part you can reach with a wire brush. It is the connection of the cable to the connector. The "never fail" switch is just a coined term for a momentary switch. It is wired with a fused hot wire from the battery to the switch. The other side of the switch get wired to the small spade connector on the back of the starter. This switch will by pass all starter circuit items. Leave the factory wiring in place if you choose then Use the "never fail" when ness. Guess Sir Simbey doesn't like old timer tricks?