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Sir Vincent, The ECU which has the LED you seek, is under the dash, to the left of the steering col. Remove the panel that is above your knees when driving and look up. If the Check Engine light is on, the flashes will be present as soon as you turn the key to "Run" Do not start the car.

Sir, if it is indeed meant for fuel injection systems yes use it (see below) Your old pump may have had a fuel damper connected directly in line with it. Some people leave it some don't. Well this is an entirely different situation. My previous statement was based on the fact that you said "But today i found the real problem. The connection on the fuelpump is loose. And i have to hold it tight together to get the pump going."

My 2000 did not like not having the large volume of air in front of the TB (Mine did not have a filter in it, just baffles) but....it was a MAP system not a MAF system. Which is this? I thought the MAP system started in 2000 The ECU needs to know the speed and the RPM. I believe it's in some form of "limp home" mode due to these two inputs being missing.

I may be mistaken but wasn't the "oatmeal" designed for the phase II starting in MY2000?? I would say this gemtleman did not check the coolant level in the rad and the leak was preventing the system from pulling from the overflow bottle. He said it got close to H not pegged. He may have saved it.

We call it AWD by convention, it not true All Wheel Drive but what you say is is the jist of it. Yes you are driving in Front Wheel Drive (FWD) until one of or both of the front wheels spin at a higher rate of speed than the back (spinning tire) Then the fluid heats/thickens and connects the rear drive. I thought I read that already? Be aware it has been said many many times, the vicous coupling is not as good as the good old locked in 4WD.

"But today i found the real problem. The connection on the fuelpump is loose. And i have to hold it tight together to get the pump going." Thanks for the update. The pump you have sounds like a pump for fuel injection? I did not look it up to see. I mean to say, it's not the volume so much as it is the pressure it delivers the fuel at. The factory pump when operating properly is very well suited for the engine in stock form.

the cable connecting the diaphragm to the lever may want some lube. Or the lever itself needs it. they do tend to bind at times.

I believe Mr. Z hits a good ball here "but the vacuum diaphram, still connected to it, is not letting you manually move it when the engine is applying vacuum ??" You might try by passing the solenoids by running the vacuum line directly to the proper side of the vacuum diaphragm. To find which line to the diaphram this is should be a simple matter for you, as you sound like you know your beans. It is possilble you have a solenoid that is leaking and thus cancelling the offset pressure on the diaphragm.

Ah Mr. Subiemech?? you say "for example my brown '86 gl-10 turbo wagon 5spd s/r pb 4x4 has ea81 engine and radiator with ea82 intake and carb" So you have a carbed turbo wagon Aye?? Sumtin is very wrong with this picture. And you go on to say the GREEN test connector does NOT need to be connected to read codes!! Gloyale did not say anything about GREEN test connectors. he did say you need to read.

Reading this might tell you (us) what the engine computer is upset about if you follow the proceedure. http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ You will need to lower the panel that is above your knees when driving to acess this.

Please see my post # 7 No reason why the entire ignition system could not be wired through the relay I mention. The keys would then be needed for the streering wheel lock and the start position (if your floor button was not installed)

many instances the wiper arm to the gear box output shaft can just be tightened. Flip the cap and see it the nut can be tightened. IF this were the case though you could hear the wiper motor running.

Mr. Bheinen is spot on Clock spring in early Legacy steering wheel air bags connections My 94 had them.

TPS adustment: This boils down to the "Idle Switch" which is incorporated in the TPS housing. This switch must be closed at idle and open when the throttle is pressed. To set the TPS ajustment. 1) remove the connector from the TPS 2) check between pins 1 and 2 for 0 ohms showing the switch is closed. Pins 1 and 2 are the two pins closest to the top of the TPS [-] - #1 [-] - #2 [-] - #3 [-] - #4 as viewed from the front of the car. 3) Insert a 0.028" feeler gauge between the throttle and the throttle stop, the switch should remain closed ( 0 ohms) 4) remove the 0.028" feeler gauge and insert a 0.035" feeler gauge 5) the measurement between pins 1 and 2 should now show infinity - meaning the switch is open. Adjust the TPS position so the above conditions are met. Hope this helps.

That's an affmative, Sir But I know you and Neo will get out to help the first stuck victim.

double up on the long johns Thermos of hot coffee or tea, man-da-tor-E

here is an old timer's trick next time it happens to you Hold the key in the start position after hearing the loud click of the starter solenoid for about 10 seconds. Quickly get out open the hood and feel all the battery /cable connections. Resistance causes heat thus you will feel the warmth in the connection that has the resistance. You might think about installing a "never fail" button under the dash to rule out the possibility of a starter circuit problem.

.Your engine has a coolant thermosensor (CTS) This tells the computer (ECU) how cold/warm the engine is and the ECU them decides how much fuel needs injected. The ECU also sets the idle RPM via the Idle Air Control (IAC) in reference to engine temp. The CTS is prone to get corroded contacts where it connects to the car's wiring harness. Cleaning them sometimes fixes this problem. Here is a picture of a bare manifold showing it's location (note the green corrosion on the contacts) Hope this helps.

Ah now I see said Stevie to Ray Very nice job on the pict/descript. My recco is to use the switch to control a standard lighting relay. Keep/trade/barter or sell the factory relay to a needy folk. The switch has two wires that when the switch closes will have have continuity (i.e. go from infinite ohms to 0 ohms) Here is one diagram that will work (shows two lamps you can connect all three) The battery source can be a headlight hot, ignition hot, or always hot. Hope this is what you needed??

Good info, Thanks Brian

81 wagon - first year for the EA81?

Mr Greenley sir, how do you purpose opening the door? I have the entire set up on the shelf, and if I recall... been several years since I studied it. the relay and associeated switch gear is used to open the door via the motor and turn the lamp on ONLY when the door is open. I'd be happy to work with you designing a relay circuit or figure how to use the factory relay, if you explain what you would like to do.

Your AWD is totally mechanical, it is a viscous coupling in the rear housing of the tranny. When the front shaft spins faster than the rear shaft, the viscous fluid heats then thickens and connects the rear to the front. Hope this helps. Read more here if you wish http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viscous_coupling Only automatics use the fuse as they have an electronically, via hydraulic solenoid, controlled clutch pack to bring in the rear drive Thank you very much.

Sleepy is a 5 speed, I do not think this applies.

Scuzz you need to find out what it's missing fuel or spark My guess is fuel pump or it's relay but without some detective work it's real hard to say. as Coils are also known to do this.