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Thomas, are you sure the AIR system is not installed on the EA81. All of mine (again here in the states) have it. Remember there is no air pump like the other cars of this vintage had. The A.I.R. system uses the scavenging effects to draw air into the exhaust. It's is just a plate (maybe 25 mm thick) between the head output port and the "J" pipe. (I believe EA82s have one on each side) This plate has one metal tube running to it. It is this tube that gets plugged to prevent the KaBoom. Dad has an idea on the timing advance, our distys use a ported manifold vacuum. Since this vacuum pick up point only sees vacuum when the throttle plate is open. The advance would fall as soon as the throttle was closed. To test this theory, re-plumb the vac advance to a non ported vacuum source. The after burn valve (also referred to the anti backfire valve) has been investigated many times to no avail. The fix for most of us is the plugging of said air discharge tube.

I agree with Nipper, this car should have the electronic Hall effect speed sensor. I do doubt that both VSS#2 and VSS#1 are both bad though. VSS#2 This sensor location is on the forward pass side of the diff and is shown in the beow picture as "mine is located here". Note: VSS#2 (the one that drives the speedometer) has been removed in this picture. Here is what it looks like removed The other location (finger point) is for the manual transmission. I removed the drive, fit it into a corless drill and turned the VSS. The speedometer in my case worked. My gear in the diff is stripped, hope this is not your problem. Hope this helps and Happy "Holly Daze"

As for filling the new oil filter. I have been doing this since I can remember. Many people thought me nutz. The oil pressure light turns off almost immediately vs many seconds without the fill. To fill an oil filter takes some patience. The first "fill" once left to sit will disappear. Takes about three fillings I start an oil change by starting to fill the new filter, pull the drain plug, remove the old filter. Fill the new filter again. Replace the drain plug. Fill the new filter again and install it. You may loose an ounce or two but to me it's worth it.

zye has hit the nail on the cranium. They do this because of the AIR system, (Air Injected Reaction). A system to reduce pollution by burning unburnt hydrocarbons as they exit the head. On "cat cars" the extra 02 helps the reaction (burning) that occurs in the cat. Filtered air is introduced right at the output of the heads. Lots of posts on meltdowns occurring when the reed valves do not close. Exhaust gas backs up and melts the silencer. The plastic it then ingested by the carb and the throttle plate can be plastic welded open (don't ask me how I know). There is an after burn valve fitted to reduce the effects but they seldom work and are bypassed many times. "In theory" this valve allows a slow controlled burn, when it fails the result is the backfire. I do not know if the Aussie version of the EJ22 uses a similar system but most of us seal the pipe to the output off and eliminate the problem.

two separate problems for the no brakes, you know about the check valve in the vacuum line to the booster - correct? light on sounds like the rear cables to the back brakes. No mention of rear disc brakes so no doubt drums? The cables and the drum hardware take a beating this time of year. Clean and a good lube are in order to keep them freed up. I like your idea of jacking it up testing these components.

If we have not scared him off and if he truly wants his car back. There are board member near Evans Creek always up for a challenge. Even if the spoils are the car and or it's parts. One of these stalwarts should PM or email this gentleman and offer their services. This makes more sense to me rather than making him out to be laughing stock.

If the owner's manual means anything It specificly says "Tire chains should always be placed on the front wheels only"

little bit of a hijack but do you guys remember porcupine's picture of the front of this engine?

I can't remember but the "Beaners" may have come with LSD even though the did not have VDC. If you have a chance to have both rear wheels off the ground, spin one and see if the other spins in the same direction If so it's an LSD rear diff.

"oh wow, how would I know if it had/has this system?" Two ways 1) The presence of a small stub antenna in the roof near the rear. 2) On the center console below the radio ther would be a panel as shown. The blue button is the On Star button.

We will take it as a given that you know the green connectors must be connected when setting the ignition timing. Many thanks for keeping us updated. Too many time a solution is found and with no update --> anyone searching the post in the future does not get the answer. Happy "Holly Daze" to you and yours also.

Now that you mention your's also has the McIntosh system Do you also have the antique "Blonde Star" system? The two are tied together so you can use voice controls and a hands free phone system. The On-Star can mute the radio for calls ect. If it has been removed/disabled it may also disable the speaker output due to this interface. The power amp is, as we said, located under the pass seat and is easy to ID. Large cooling fins across it's top. Sorry I do not have the wiring diagram for this radio system.

If you are having trouble locating the fuse holder. Here is a picture from my 94 Legacy wagon. I have seen some where the cap is missing Hope this helps

thank you sir, it was needed as a reference for when these must be changed. My 2003 H6 has 75 kmi and they are still in nice shape I just changed my belt as preventive maint.

I would find a snow covered parking lot and do some testing. Put the FWD fuse in and try some traction experiments then remove it and do the same moves. This should prove if AWD is functioning. As for the difference: Maybe your 2003 has LSD, mine does but it's a VDC. As a side note: I will say this about "Vehicle Dynamic Control" I own 10 4wd and AWD Subarus and live in snow country. Brat's, Outbacks, wagons, turbo wagons, an SS ect. The VDC is by far the easieast /safest to drive in the snow and the most controlled of all of them. I'm not saying Peter Solberg would agree, but how many of us have his control/expierence.

may I ask how many Kilometers are on this car?

One more thing, this car has no "starter relay" from the factory Maybe you meant "starter solenoid" The wire to which is located on the back of the starter. and you say "Looks as though it has a vaccum line running to it and one black and one red wire running to it..." This is the duty solenoid for the boost control. It will also stop ticking when the green connectors are unplugged.

The fuel pump issue sure sounds what Cougar says Under the panel that is above your knees when driving is the ECU tucked up by the st.col. To the left side of it you will find a pair of green connectors and a pair of black connectors - both sets are single wire connectors and neither should be plugged togeather. Some one may have plugged the green ones together to check the ignition timing (this must be do to do so) Then forgot to dissconnect them when finished.

try a known to be good one Be kind kewl to know where you are located Mt Vernon doesn't tell what state. If it is WA or so, lots of help up there. We do have a "parts wanted" forum.

You say " then it started to get jerky, and the tachometer was spiking like crazy." This tells me the distributor is toast.

Opus, thanks for the time and energy be warned though, older versions of Netscape (7.2) crashes hard and takes all open tabs with it

88 and later models with Single-Point Fuel Injection 11 Crank angle sensor or circuit 12 Starter switch or circuit Have you tried clearing the codes using this method Clearing Codes Codes will only clear when the faulty system or circuit has been repaired. After making the repairs, codes can be cleared by connecting 2 pairs of connectors, the "Self-diagnostic" connectors and the "Read Memory" connectors that are usually to the right of the diagnostic connectors. Start with a warmed up engine Turn off the engine Connect both pairs of connectors Fianlly start the engine This should clear the codes. NOT the battery disconnect method

Be forewarned, the XT6 (your 6 cyl Alcyone) is not a direct swap and requires pulley modifications and mounting changes. There is a write up in the USRM for this. Plus these alternators all have internal voltage regulators. You alt has an external regulator that also runs your fuel pump.

Sounds to me like the voltage regulator (which is internal i.e. inside the alternator) went toast and cause the system voltage to go too high. Behind the battery mounted on the washer bottle is a black box with three wires in it. These are the fusible links. They must be tested with a multimeter to see if one is burned open. You can not normally "see" the burned open link. A alternator from a junkyard should be 25 dollars a fusible link maybe free at the same junkyard.

The fuse when inserted forces the car to be in Front Wheel Drive only. If the fuse is inserted you should have a light on the dash showing "FWD"