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You are from Hickory Hickory, PA?? Get any solenoid from any 80's Honda or Toyota that looks similar. They will work. PM or email me if you want. Skip

Excellent idea EVO. there are actually two idler pulleys (#2, #5 below) One is the tension pully, one just an idler

Yes the H20 pump is driven by the timing chain. belt is a pretty simple replacement as there is no locking bolt just a spring loaded idler. but It is tight down there, I can understand your reservations I can post the belt run pattern if you wish Good luck, no alt = no heater use ..............no PS = popeye forearms

Morti you could switch the hoses coming out ot the solenoids it should them change from FWD to 4WD. That will isolate your problem to the diaphragm/cable/lever or to the switch and it's power source.

yes EVO, they are sweet pieces of kit But for $115????

sorry Mr. Blazer sir, that is just not true. Although I have not done it, I did give it a close examination. Removing the parts Gloyale mention helps, soaking the coil pack hold down bolts in Deep Creep or similar is also mandatory. Getting at them from down under -yep. But lifting the engine, don't think so.

Gloyale has an excellent tip I believe this is what he is describing. I could not get the rubber plug retainer out of the socket. Mine has coil packs over the spark plugs that must be removed.

Gary, sorry no I have not done it yet. We have been traveling in our travel trailer/truck and have not put many miles on it since I posted. I did find several pictorial procedures for the operation on the outback forum. I did buy the plugs from a link on that forum. The socket jamal shows looks like a winner.

the vacuum diaphragm in the 4wd manual transmission car is pulled two ways When the button is pushed solenoid A opens and the diaphragm is pulled to engage 4wd. It in turn (via cable) operates a lever shifting the rear drive into gear. It will stay in 4wd even if the vacuum bleeds off. To get it out of 4wd, when the button is moved to the 2wd position, solenoid B opens and vacuum is introduced to the other side of the diaphragm and it then pulls the lever taking it out of 4wd. Thus if ice slush and other debris gets into the area of the 4wd shifting lever it could "freeze" into one position or the other The 3AT automatic 4wd works just as Caboo says. There is no diaphragm used, it's a solenoid operated hydraulic spool valve. Which being inside the tranny is not affected by snow ice ect. Thus my original comment on which tranny the dude has.

I agree with subaru360 completely and will not (read this nipper and behein) allow this to become a discussion about General Motors and there need for funding.

Thanks Mike, that was super for us old gen types. If it's been posted before I missed it Thanks again for the link.

Gary, I am not sure where the sub would be in a 2003 Legacy My 2003 has the McIntosh system which is different. The sub I was refering to was an earlier Impreza. BTW I need to see this Brat with "factory" heated seats.

You might get a better answer if you told us what model Subaru and transmission you are driving. The 4wd engages differently in the 3AT vs the manual tranny. Since this is old gen forum both tranny types lock the front and rear drives together just like a Jeep or 4wd truck when shifted into 4wd. No split no "power ratio"- straight lock

glad you have it working, the park position is simple with the diagram Thanks for all the help Glen (Cougar)

heated seats in a Brat??? That's a hot one!!! Gary, the radio in Dave's Forester had only one plug, some have two. I have seen other systems where this type radio was interfaced with a factory subwoofer located under the pass seat. If the sub is unpowered the radio will not output to any speakers. As Dave mentioned, you might look under the console to check for disconnected plugs.

Well said Keith. I agree completely. One question. Is there a fusible link between the alt output and the bat?

Or sumtin like this? I've had it this way for years. KC Highlighters (driving lights) wired to come on with the Hella 500's and the orig. high beams Turn sigs wired to the white side lights with amber lamps fitted. Nice thing is the turn sigs are visable from the side now.

glad you got it fixed, you are welcome for all the help and ideas?? Try it without the spring that was missing and let us know what happens on the chance someone else forgets it.

Biffanyus covered one of mine, thanks again Tommy, Here is my daily driver Has spoke wheels now and is cleaned up some

Glen, you are most welcome, I could not agree more with your assessment/statement.

Antifreeze Facts Glycol is the main ingredient used in all forms of antifreeze. Modern engines use a mixture of glycol and water as a coolant. Using antifreeze without mixing it with water can damage the engine by causing high operating temperatures. Additives in the antifreeze can also gum up cooling system passages and damage water pump seals. Glycol should make up between 40 and 60 percent of the mix for best results. 50 percent is the accepted mixture. Any use of stop leaks have been shunned in Subarus as they can plug heater cores.

Glen, went looking for the fan power fuse and found first the wipers are fuse # 3 not # 7 as the troubleshooting diagram had labeled and the blower relay is powered by fuse # 1 but that is dependant on if there is AC fitted or not.

my lad, that is one radical piece of kit you have there!!!! talk about a pict = a Kiloword I see a swirl pot and a missing balance tube from the left to the right intake manifolds, as you said it is not finished. Grab a set of Weber DCOEs and have at it. Or you could follow you original turbo sug but the cam for a turbo is designed to limit overlap. Carb cams do not. Also Turbo compression ratio is adjusted down as to prevent detonation, as I am sure you are aware. Ron has his dung in a pile so his cam would be set for the 'kunis. He may have also bumped the comp ratio. If you decide to go to EA82T, the manifold has injectors in it aimed at the back of the intake valves. Since we know an SPFI manifold fits width wise. Stands to reason the MPFI should. BUT the RAM spacing port to port may not fit. This sounds like a KABOOM waiting to happen. But it sure will be fun until then. Have at it mate, just make sure you use all the EA82T sensors and one nice thing is your version uses an EGT sensor where ours has a 02 sensor. That may help. Set the boost at 4 or 5 psi (0.3 bar) See how it runs. I've been messin with the EA82T a bit and will help if you want. One of my EA82Ts Mike is in his 20's, he may have moved after gittin' hitched. He raced your version of auto cross .

Upon further review it appears you are missing the spring. that pulls the bell crank up and closes the secondary. I do not see this spring in your picture Without it fitted I could place the secondary at any position even when the primary was closed.

Since I'm the one that originally suggested this and Sir Greenly is loosing sleep.... I figured I'd look into it a bit so I grabbed one of my Weber 32/36s off the shelf and had a look. The Beast may have it nailed with an obstruction in the bore or the secondary throttle plate may not be centered. In the below picture you will see the top is the correct position, the bottom is your approx position. To simulate your position I placed a spacer in the bore. The thickness of this spacer is 0.010 " Yes 10 thousands of an inch. You may want to remove the carb to check for these problems. Hope this helps you get some sleep.