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Couple of tack welds, little body cheese (bondo) Backwoodsboy's buffer goodtago

Gary's idea of going down under has many merits. They have many TT's and I'll bet you could at the very least get a picture of one. With your eye for fabrication, seeing how they are notched may give you a better understanding of how the factory did it. Here is one of the best Aussie sites (was the Backyard Boys sight) http://www.ausubaru.com/ I'd give them a look and an email to an owner - mighty helpful people those Aussies. Good luck and search for a member named Matty B He has a way kewl jet boat build going on down under, but know a lot about everything, bet he'd help.

Happy BD and welcome, glad ta have ya back.

what Ed said and get some huge caps (as in capacitors)

Sir Keltik, welcome to the H6 world, they are kewl but somewhat more complicated than what I am used to. Please sir take a few minutes and read these posts that deal with many aspects of our engine. Reference here is to the timing chain tensioners and the guides needing oil changes frequently and how much it costs to change them. (Way kewl picture by Porcupine 73 of the engine) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85168&highlight=timing http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84524&page=3&highlight=H6%2A

affirmative Sir many people up here called them the VWporch. Now the six cyl model was kewl. 914/6 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Porsche_914

Carl, I'm sure you've seen this setup to look for parasitic loads

"This combination is what tells me its electrical and not mechanical since nothing mechanical would cause the tach to bounce. If it were mechanical, the tach would just follow the decline in rpm as it died." Good point, this kind of info really helps. This system used a CAS (Crank Angle Sensor) distrib. There is no "module" in the distrib. Just an optical sensor and a wheel with holes Check the plug to the dist, the wires in and out of this plug have been known to get knackered and cause issues. Was the distrib from the same year?

well I didn't pick up on the idle forever part. I see it now "run till it warmed up then loose all power and cut out with the depressing of the accelerator pedal (only idle - nothing more)" Don't think it's an amp issue. (any mid 80's and on SPFI or MPFI cars have them) Fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, MAF all could be suspect. I will also assume you have no CEL when this happens. Have you made sure there are no separations of the tube from the MAF to the intake?

have you tried a different ignition amplifier? And made sure the bracket is well grounded. They don't fail frequently, but can fail in some strange ways. (I will assume you checked for spark after it quit and had none)

Porc, I wish I had a picture... I have seen 55 gallon drums, yes 55 gallon drums, full of "not to spec" hose clamps" at "Breeze". I was a member of the Tunnelton VFD (where their plant is~1 mile from my homestead) We had to tour (inspect) the plant. BTW their Tunnelton plant was (durring WW II) one of the largest tear gas and dynamite facitities in the US of A. (the "bunkers" are still visable) That is why you will find my little town (Tunnelton) on most maps. Named not for a coal mine but for housing the brave souls, who put a hole in a mountian for a canal, yes a donkey pulled barge type canal!! One of the only canal tunnels in existance. Parts of the PA Erie Canal are still visable also. Gad I'm shedding some home town history here. Sorry for the H-Jax,)

Sorry Joe, I want to help, we will pursue this via email if you pease.

I second Cougar I'd like to add. Sure is nice of people to come back and tell of the repair and to give thanks. As Cougar says -- Glad we could help. You are most welcome.

1) you didn't answer the question I asked. Coolant type or fuel injection? 2) Nipper probably didn't read your post, just the subject. 3) the fuel injection clamps are nice. But with all the worm gear type clamps in use today you have to wonder why? I bet because they work so well. I use them for many many projects -not just hoses that why I have this is the shed.

The wires I speak of are only going tothe voltmeter - no jumping. I thought you could put the voltmeter somewhere you could see it while cranking. If I'm not mistaken?? You were asking how to check the voltage from the FPCU. No but it might explain this half full filter aspect you mention. The front filter (vapor separator) has three lines.

I've never had to have the engine at that high a RPM to get 13.8 V or higher. I'm sure Nipper has a FSM reference he's quoting. My FSM says you should get 33 A at 1500 RPM. I'll give it a try and see if the voltage increases above 1500. Might be time to check the electrolyte if you go through batteries like that. and or a small parasitic drain.

You might want to check the positive battery terminal. Mine was pretty nasty under the red cap cover. I'm sure you saw this if you jumped it.

"I should be more clear, whats the best way to test the fpcu?" I would run a pair of wires directly to the pump Pump side of the connector you speak of. Then connect a voltmeter to these wires. Watch the voltmeter when cranking with a fully charged bat. How did you or?? plumb the fuel return line to the Weber?

my check mark goes next to the battery being bad' Maybe a load test with one of these would show you this? alt output should be between 13.8 and 14.2 Vdc Was the engine running faster than 1200 RPM when you did your tests? Our 03 VDC (H6) still has the factory bat at 75 kmi.

From Cougar "A common problem is the terminal connection in the connector goes bad. " This connector is what I mentioned in post #2. Here is another post on an EA81 starter issue http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85035&highlight=ignition Here (thanks to Edrach) is what you might find.

Frag, I kinda have to agree with you but living with in a wagon greasin' of one of the biggest manufacturing plants may make a difference?? http://www.breezeclamps.com/ I like the fuel injection style shown above better. They don't seen to "bite" into the hose as bad.

You should be seeing 13.8 to 14.2 Volts at the battery when the engine RPM is above ~1200 RPM. I vote for Cougar's explanation involving the alt's brushes. These can exhibit a come and go type operation before they ware out completely. IF the connections (including the output through the fusible link) check out okay, might be time for an alt swap.

Hatchsub, you are most welcome, some of the credit goes to slideshow as he promted the search. As a side note for those having problems. Mr Greenley's method gave me a thought. IF you right click and choose "save as" you get the problem, I tried that and saw what you folks saw. If you choose "Save link tarket as" (as noted in post #5) the save box comes up with it saving as a .pdf file -- which is correct. (I'll edit the original post to reflect this and thanks for bringing it to my attention)

Getting the engine out is easy with a proper crane (note: equalizer and electric winch make doing it "one man band" style much nicer) And a few tools.

You could use one of these to check the spark at #1