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your plugs may be gas fouled try some other plugs and charge the battery

Opus, No worries, mate. I'm not attempting to be a wise arse but I have been through this a dozen times with guys on the board. Your test light is looking for +12 V. (assuming the clip lead is grounded) If you want to try a test. Turn the ignition on. Unplug both head lamps and try your test lamp. (As I said, I will assume one side of your test light is grounded) High/low will make no difference, you will see +12 v (light lites) on both the red/blue driver's side and on the red (pass side). Switch the stalk to the other beam and you will still see the same. As I explained obviously poorly, wire the coil wires of the relay across the red/blue and red / black wires. The relay will only close (aux lights on) when the low beams are selected. It will go open (aux lights off) when you have the high beams on. For the dash mounted control, I would run a pair of wires from the red/black side of the coil control. That way if it shorts to ground, it will not blow a fuse. I will draw up a wiring diagram and upload it if you request. But since you say "The way I have it now with the red/blue works for me" I'll just bow out and say congrats on a fine wiring job. Glad you figured it out. All 4 aux lights come on only with the high beams on this car.

Sorry please do not take this wrong but... Your car is either wired differently than the FSM drawing above, or You are not measuring for the correct signal. My guess is you were measuring for a hot feed (+12 V) and not the ground control wire as I tried to explain above. The wire that controls the lighting of the low beam filament is the red/black. It goes to ground when stalk is switched to the low beam. The red with blue is the hot feed for the driver's side lamp. It powers both the high and low beam on that side and comes from the fuse box. If you try to control your relay coil with that wire and a ground on the other side of the coil. Your aux lights will be on (relay closed) anytime the headlamps are on. NOT just when your low beams are on. (This would also be the case if you used a parking lite) As I said the ground is what controls which filament lights. I have wired many sets of lights to be controlled by the hi/lo beam stalk (normally I wire a set driving lights to come on with the high beams) IMHO the best way to do this (but I feel you will have your own) is to wire the relay control coil to the two wires that work the filament you want to use for control. One wire from the relay coil to the Red/black and the other wire to the red/blue. The main contact for the relay that will power the aux lights, gets a fused hot feed from the battery + For ingress into the interior there is a rubber plug located below the power brake booster that is seldom used. Hard to reach but is there. I doubt this will help - sorry I tried. I could email you a wiring diagram if you want.

Glen my sincere apologies my friend. I dug out another coil bracket and this one HAS screws holding the power transistor on just like you said it would. Once removed (see picture below) it is a conventional power transistor case, just as you said. Sorry, I thought I had seen some rivoted

from this diagram it looks like you want the Red with a black tracer wire. You do know these are NOT controled like lights in a domestic car ? Meaning on these cars, the beam you want lit gets a ground from the switch and the center or common is powered from the fuse via a relay. Each side having it's own relay. Hope this helps.

Glen, the ig amp case is rivoted to the bracket, not held there by screws. The wiring comes from the car to the ig amp from the amp to the coil. as seen here I'll dig one out and get a better shot

You do not mention what you plan on using them on. I hope you cheked that they are all Gen II wheels. Hard to tell from the picts but Gen I's will not fit on the front of a Gen II car. Hope you got center caps and the plastic fit rings?

my pleasure folks (glad to read that JoAnne, my Willy kinda went into retirement) hope it helps Wildhair and he gets back to us no matter what the outcome.

Here is Willy, since been retired and is still for sale.

For values and location of the sensor, Please take a look at this post http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83667&highlight=resistance+chart

As Heartless correctly called it the unit under the coil on the bracket is the ignition amplifier Some people incorrectly refer to this as an ignitor (I have even seen this in print) but in reality an ignitor is found inside some (not this model) distributors. It sends a pulse to ignition related components. On the other hand, the ignition amplifier receives a signal from the ECU - amplifies it and sends it to the coil. It is nothing more than a power transistor. Thus Hearthless's warning about the bracket grounding, as the ground is one of the "legs" of the transistor. They do go bad and or have wiring issues on rare occasions. As Cougar says the best test is a replacement. The distributor in this model is called a Crank Angle Sensor (CAS). The "guts" are pictured below. Hope this helps.

As Cougar says The CTS or it's wiring is bad. I'd vote for a bad CTS. No fuel system spec'd so I'll guess SPFI On the gooseneck (upper rad hose to engine connection) there is a sensor with two wires leading to a plug. This is the CTS, it tells the ECU the engine temp and the ECU adjusts the mixture accordingly. The backfire you feel is a lean mixture from the ECU not knowing the engine temp. You can measure it's resistance vs temp if you are friendly with a multimeter. Hope this helps

pull the plastic cover down that is above you knees when driving find the black connectors (two single wire -one male one female) by the ECU Plug them together, turn the key to run (do not start the engine) watch the small round hole on the end of the ECU facing you and read the codes. Note this hole and it's LED is what is called the O2 monitor see this site - do not be fooled by the opening line about OBD II The site is for OBD I like you have. http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ hope this helps

This part of the original post is disturbing "can hear the starter sproket spring out under the hood but it doesnt turn over." You may have a stripped gear on the flywheel/flex plate. The starter engages enough to rotate it slightly, next time it bites the remaining teeth. If this is the case the situation will deteriorate. Remember the engine only stops at four places (when one of the pistons is on comp) I'd pull the starter and have a look see at the teeth on the flex plate/flywheel.

I have a question why are the pictures dated 11/30/2006 If she just bought it? Maybe they are the original "For Sale" pictures?? Keep the height stock and add only factory assc. to it. Should be worth 10 k$ in a few years.

PGH Scoob. First a Legacy or OB gets about the same fuel mileage and are far more comfortable. I will vouch for Davebugs. I live close to him and have seen many of the cars he sells. HE IS ANAL!! "Come on Dave - the buyer is not going to mind two types of lug nuts!!" He will not sell you a car until it is driven and proved worthy. Trust him, he'll set you up. Gary will treat you right also, he has been around Subies for a long time and is a very trusted member here.

You welcome and much thanks for the update. Nice to read guys getting their rides fixed and how they did it.

Here's mine with a short vid of it in action Thanks to Scott of Subarubrat.com fame click link for video http://www.subarubrat.com/PICS/carlisleskip.MPG

As a folow up It occured to me that I had an EA82T distributor laying on a work bench. I took the cover off of the sensor ring and found there appears to be two sets of slots one inner with four large slots and then the outer what look like 360 slots (one per degree) So it is possible that your CAS is having issues with the pulses coming from the four inner slots. I appologize for the mis information. The only test I know of, barring the use of an occiliscope is to try a know working model.

The CAS in a 89 EA82T distributor controls not only the fuel pump via the ECU but it also controls the spark. From your post it does have spark. Therefore I would say the CAS and the ignition amplifier are working. Have you verrified the pump is running when the key is in the crank to start position?

my WAG is the line from the IAC is split or cracked at one end causing a vacuum leak. Have a look at it while you check for the coolant leak. Nobody you know messed with the throttle stop scew - eh?

if there is a small blank located on the shifter console just above and left of the shifter then pry it off and insert a round dowl of some sort. If there is no blank.. then the console will need lifted Here is a picture of the console lifted with a phillips head inserted

cold engine: fuel injection = rich lotta gas on the bare cyl walls Think I'd unplug the injectors or fuel pump to prevent this.

thanks again for the replies I found the "Lets see those Brats" post and the strip appears on many Gen 1's making me think it was a dealer option. Just need the small part for the pass front fender. I have the fiberglass "hi topper" but like the look of the low rider. The carpet in the bead is so nice I may keep the cap on.