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Yan, the sensor you seek is the fuel injection coolant thermosensor. About 35.00 USD Located on the rear drivers side of the intake manifold. I am moving this post to the proper section. In hopes of better responces. There are pictures posted of this replacement. You must remove a coulpe of vent hoses to gain good access.

That could be the purge valve. This valve, by the way, controls gas vapors from the gas tank. See why it might be the source of the smell?

Howdy Tristan, If the canister purge valve was replaced (the sensor you mention) and the lines for it not connected correctly, your problem could be there. The proper connection for this valve may be on a sticker under your hood. Other than that I drive a 94 Leg and have the same situation. The gas smell I am having is not from eating chille or taco's but the fuel fill pipe that connects the gas fill opening to the gas tank is rusted and leaks. My thought is the mud crud and other derbris in the area of this absorb the gas and give off this odor. While sitting it premeaits the entire body cavity. When the car is started the heater vent infront of the windscreen draws this odor in to the cabin. After driving the heater vent gets fresh air which displaces the gas smell. To see if this is your problem (which has been mentioned by many others here with similar vintage cars) after you get gas, look under the car in the area of where your fill door is. (right side rear). Do you semll or see any signs of gas? Good luck, and hope this helps.

My 97 Outback has been sitting for a while (bad VSS drive gear => will not pass OBD II inspection, need to yank the lump (bad HG) and tranny). During the recent cold snap with temps in the single digits, I tried unsuccessfully to open the drivers door. Unbeknownst to me the door opened far enough to trigger the "key in the ignition" alarm. (Key was in the ignition. and remote key unlock fob is on the key ring. Living out in the boonies does have some advantages) Fast forward to yesterday, heat wave had temps in the upper 20's and I could enter said vehicle. Turned the key - yep dead as a door nail. (what's a door nail anyway??) I pop the bonnet get out and open the hood I left the key in the ignition and closed the door - bummer move? If you had a dead battery in a parking lot lets say, a good Samaritan offers a jump, you get out to assist, do you take the keys and or not close your door? Note: The car does not have a security system that I know of, there is no "security" indicator in the position shown in the owners manual. But it does have factory remote locks. So: I get my brainless battery charger hooked up. (The brain type chargers I have will not charge a totally flat battery) As soon as I flip the switch I hear click click click and see the parking lights start to flash. I utter a Homeresk like "DuuHu" I doesn't take Sherlock Holmes to tell you what happened. All doors are now locked and the only key I have hangs in the ignition.. Just got this car and have not got around to getting a spare key. Luckily I was at my home and I have quite a few items in the shed. I got a piece of 0.090 aluminum about 1" wide and 2' long. With my Swiss army knife to pry the window gently away from the seal, I was in in less than two minutes. (why do we even lock these? I'm a flunky and do not break into cars for a living - how long would it take one of those folks?) Door open, three clicks on the door unlock button and the lights quit flashing. Thanks for reading and maybe it helps someone prevent themselves from a similar debacle.

Sir Moosens mentioned the FI thermosenor. It is rather buried in the rear pass side of the intake manifold (as seen below in a stripped intake manifold photo) The connector sits vertically and water tends to collect in it's "well" The pictured thermosenor has the green corrosion common to this sensor. Moosens outlined the cleaning very well and some folks have reported soldering the wires to the terminals works well. (I imagine using a pencil tipped soldering iron?) The resistance of this sensor is inversely proportional to temperature so a high resistance tells the ECU the engine is cold. Thus cold weather derivability is good but as the engine warms the ECU does not adjust the mixture accordingly and the engine can run rich. (This is similar to a carbed engine with the choke stuck partially on) Hope this helps

Although he does not grace us with the vehicle he was driving. I guess it shows 92 Loyale. I would not guess they put ABS in Loyales? It is snowing here in PA and it could have been ABS pulsation I guess. Odd these guesses that people guess like a) I guess they expect us to guess the car have never felt ABS kick in while living in snow country (I guess he could have just moved here )

Howdy MrDeep, fellow PAian, Here is an off the wall WAG. One instance where this was happening, turned out to be the alternator. How you ask? The output of the alt/power system dropped and the ECU got it's panties in a twist. Like I said - sounds like a WAG, smells like a WAG it probably is a WAG. This was a very common topic but was associated with the turbo models IIRC.

Did my post make any sense? I took it that is was a custom install and questioned nothing but the operating principles there in and how to check to see if it will work. I will say good luck, my bet is you'll get it figured out, even if it takes fitting another slave cyl from a more or less "conventional" hyd set up. (I think Imps use a conventional hyd set up, I will go out and look at my 2.5RS and shoot some picts if you want. She's been sitting for a couple months and the snow prevents me from checking right now) For this to work the new slave must have the same or larger "swept volume" of the one used now. Preferably with the same piston diameter.

The dieseling mentioned is after you turn the key to off. Also if it is "run on", there is a peculiar smell associated with the running on. Try the coil wire test. Should this cause the engine to stop then... The alternator could be internally shorted and causing the voltage which is holding the relay closed. This voltage would be output on the small "T" connector that is pluged into the alt rear. I believe you can reach this connector with the alt on the engine. I don't want you wasting time on the alt replacement without proving said WAG. See if pulling the small "T" connector causes the engine to stop.

I have a problem with the "shorted wire theory" If this is the case when he stalls it, would not the dash lights (charge, brake, ect.) light up? Like when you turn the key to run but not start the engine. And in this condition the battery would go flat in short order. I'm with 4x4 Welder and ask if it is "run on" also know as "dieseling" This can be caused by carbon deposits or too fast an idle speed or too advanced timing or a combo of the abvove which cause the "run on". A clue here is , and I quote "It is funny how it does it. If you only let it run for a short time it will turn right off. But after 10 minutes or so it will not turn off with the key." It takes a while for the mentioned items to get hot enough to cause this dieseling. (carbon deposits glowing in the combustion chamber). Here is a simple test. Loosen the coil wire (big fat one) at the coil. Drive it for the required time. When it runs on. Pull the wire out of the coil tower. IF it quits this entire diatribe is for naught, an then I would guess that stray (shorted) voltage is coming from the alternator and holding the ignition relay closed. The engine is stalled, alternator output quits and the relay goes open thus no dash lights or battery drain. Or he just found the worlds first automatic turbo timer.

may I be so naive as to ask that you explain this problem more implicitly. you say "stuck in drive." then " It will go into drive" Being old and feeble - this leaves me in a serious conundrum. What exactly is the problem??

both ways on my turbo wagon "Willy" KC's under Hellas over

I buy the driving light models and wire them via relay to my high beam circuit. I have put them in both OB's and run a set on my Brat Great lights.

Mike if you still have this problem and have not taken drastic measures yet. The line and the jam nut are frozen to the cyl. The best way I have found is to rotate the line and the jam nut or hold them and rotate the cyl. Sometimes if you remove the bolts that hold the cyl to the backing plate then loosen the clamp on the brake line, you can feed the line with cyl still attached into a position where you can hold the jam nut and rotate the cyl. After the rubber parts are removed you can heat the cyl. Antisieze will prtevent this from happening again. Hope this helps.

The 204's came with 13"r's, but they only have three (3) lugnutz??? Nobody warned about the P390 metric size. Bad juju that when it comes to finding tyres.

My concerns center around the throw of the slave cyl actuation rod. (Master cyl like in brakes is the cyl the foot pedal actuates. The slave is the cyl that operates the clutch fork/thowout bearing.) The hyd clutches I have worked on (Blokemobiles) have a short throw compared to the throw of the cable types I have worked on. The throw out bearing via the fork arm would need to be moved the same relative distance as it was with the cable. A bell crank comes to mind if needed. If you can verify this aspect of the swap it should work.

I have a question and my question is. Was the short block replaced before the new and improved head gasket came out? Also, Have you ever read about torque bind and how to test for it?

FYI Here is a good read on the procedure. Talks of methods and shows the drilling of the headgasket for the H20 passages. I am also going to be doing this as soon as the weather warms a bit. I want to know why the 2.5 intake manifold will not fit the 2.2L heads. Is it the bolt patern/ port alignment ? both? Is the 2.5L case wider? 2.5 / 2.2 build

What GD says plus while your down there nice time to fab up a short shift

Torque 13-17 ft -lb as per the FSM anti- sieze is okay, just don't get it on the electrode Manarius might have thought you said "lock-tite"?

This can be an entertaining read if you haven't already? Thanks to Andy (B-Cuda) for posting the link Please read the intro. http://www.worldwidecm.com/HTKYSA.pdf Cabin Fever here to, but due to the fact we have not seen temps in double digits for almost a week.

I replaced the 14" wheels on my 94 GT wagon first with MY00 2.5 RS 16" wheels Now with the winter tires MY98 Forester S 16" wheels Both have 205 55 R16's

Hi Mike, Here is some reading you might be able to use. 4EAT diag Search the "Archives" for more on the 4EAT. Hope this helps.

You are most welcome my friend, well deserved and very well done.

My ALLTIME favorite style courtesy Sir Zapar _____