Skip

Porc: well said... I like his idea. You could try this using electrical tape do a clean install of this in the normal sun roof location. run the wire to the dome light hot wire. (always hot, gets a ground through the door open system) It would look like a factory sun roof with the real meaning of sunroof. _______________________ Okay, I'll take my meds now.

uese??? John, if your VCR is mounted where said switch is located, ahhh I think you may have other - how U say? -- issues??

You are welcome, 'ave a gidday.

Here is a simple effective non abtusive solution. Using a piece of black vinyl electrical tape, tape the switch in the "off" position. This will make it hard to accidentally turn it on, but allow the use of said switch if necessary

Getting back to your question, instead of reviewing all cars in history with heated seats. I have been meaning to address the same issue. Here is what I found in the FSM on the seat heaters. Shows what you said, two elements (high/low). Hope this helps

I'd start by replacing the PCV with a dealer unit (aftermarkets can be questionable), you have excessive blow by but it could be from sitting. As for the ticking like mad, some lifters have bled down no doubt. I'd throw a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase and drive it. Sounds like a way kewl project.

Thought I might add. If this is an automatic make sure you swap the flex plate. And while you have it off put the metal oil separator plate from the EJ25 on the EJ22 (it will be of the plastic variety and prone to leaking. Plenty of posts on this swap. I'm going back to the EJ25 short block with the EJ22 heads

Larry is the man when it comes to these swaps. I am currently running a 95 EJ22 in my 97 OB. As he says the bracket and tensioner swap over to the EJ22. Bracket bolts will be a bit tight and strange to get at but not insurmountable. Same goes for your ps pump.

Howdy Mazlik, Sorry about the reference to the nonexistent lock mechanisms in the drivers door. Thanks Mikeshoup for the correction. Here is an idea. Since you are in Europe, the UK is not too far away. In the UK they drive on the "correct" side of the road. Where as the rest of us must therefore drive on the incorrect side?? If you found someone in the UK that is dismantling a Loyale, the "off" side door (our driver's side) will have the actuator you need. It should be a simple bolt in installation. The wires to this actuator will be the only ones needed by your remote control unit assuming it is providing battery voltage via a relay. If your choose this method. Have the remote unit apply battery voltage to the white with a yellow tracer wire. The yellow wire from the actuator goes to ground. (I have the factory service manual (fsm) for your car) As has bee mentioned. The operation of the driver's door lock will then cause the other locks to unlock. If this is confusing maybe it will help someone helping you. Good luck and welcome aboard.

I believe you will want to tap into the control lock inside the drivers door or trace them as they exit at the kick panel. I may be wrong but I do not think there is a "unit" per say (like there is for the power windows for instance). All functions your alarm should need are in the door.

EGR solenoid is no doubt the cause. Driverside head at the rear is a metal tube going from the head to the intake where it connects to the EGR valve proper. Follow the rubber line connected to the valve - it will lead to the solenoid. Check it's windings for approx 35 ohms resistance. If found to be open (infinite resistance) any Toyota or Honda solenoid of similar configuration may be substituted. Hope this helps.

Hey porc, Please do tell some details about the scan meter system you use. I have been in the market and like the sound of yours. Name/brand/cost/available from. Thanks

Be real cool to know what car this TPS is in. I have opened one from a EA82T and yes there is a potentiometer and two switches. I dremeled the small pins protruding from the rear and then gently prized the cover off. Cleaned it with parts cleaner designed for this purpose and it was good as new. Setting the TPS is tricky so mark it well before removing it. Hope this helps.

Just a guess but you probably toasted the main fusible link (fuse box under the bonnet behind the battery) Must be checked with a multimeter. How are you planning on disabling the steering lock? Hope this helps

Setright, sorry I missed your question, as far as I know they are like Shak said as factory. Jay thanks for the input. I thought ( ?) I read somewhere that I could use the EJ25 intake? Are you sure it will not bolt/match to the EJ22 heads? I'd like to use it as I thought ( ?) it would have better flow characteristics. The EJ22 I'm using is in the car and running at this time but has a bad HG. It has the same exhaust ports / EGR and was a plug and play.

First off, I thank for all the replies and would like to add the event was the final straw for the previous owners. They junked the car as a result. ( 97 Legacy OB 175 Kmi ) I dragged it kicking and screaming from the boneyard. Qman - wish I was as near as fast with wrenches as you are, this conversion is going to take a bit longer -- nah lets say a lot longer. Thanks for the support. As for now... If anyone has tips or tricks to this conversion please let me know. (i.e. I guess I use the new improved EJ25 head gaskets, water pump, idler pulleys, rear and main seals and ?) obviously the 2.2 timing belt and cam seals Like Nipper says "as long as I'm in there". Once again, I humbly say thanks for your condolences. I hope this helps someone avoid the same catastrophe.

Just a subtle reminder to those of you that say "Oh that idler feels fine." This engine had a timing belt break around ten kmi before this failure. The first belt breakage cost two bent valves in one head. The resulting train crash (valve train) from this failure cause both heads to suffer bent valves. The belt ran while skipping/stripping teeth long enough that both heads got into the action. The engine is an MY97 EJ25 with around 175 kmi. It is now being converted to a "hybrid" EJ 25/22.

You are most welcome sir, glad it helped. I would like to clarify one thing I stated. I said " Remember the headlights get power from the ignition switch" This is more correctly stated Remember the headlights get power from a set of relays controlled by the ignition switch. Good luck with the project please ask if you have any other questions.

Sir Pisces, A fan of the size you are describing could draw as much as 10 amps when it starts up. I would not tie a load like this to the ignition circuit. Plus fans can make electrical "noise" that the ECU may not enjoy. I'd use the headlight power wire. Remember the headlights get power from the ignition switch and are turned on when the headlamp switch grounds the filament you want to illuminate. What I am saying is that it is also a power source controlled by the ignition switch. Fuse the main power to the relay from the battery. Then tie the relay coil to ground through the temp switch. Hope this helps.

Just glad to read you are hunky dory.

Thanks Gary, Any chance this gentleman has an email address? There are the other issues I mention I'd like to discuss with him. Why did he remove the hardware? Do you think any of it is for sale?

Thanks for the encouragement guys. XT - the heads are toast from the train crash, plus I have the EJ22 heads. I will use the EJ25 intake manifold so the intake runners will at least be larger. Jeremy recco's getting the cams done at Delta and I will do the Dremel dance. I have the hanging cable model that is made for this operation. Finding a EJ22T crosmember is another "hen's tooth". I may try and go under the member and up as I have read this is an option (the factory pipes go under it). Plus I have the original EJ22T cross over pipe as a position guide / donor. I will photo document this op and as ya'll mention plan on limiting the "huffin' " to 7 or 8 psi. I would like some feed back on the barometic pressure sensor and if the engine will be of the intereference varity. (I will change the belt / seals - ect) I still must contend with OBD II and PA IM tests. (PA IM tests are not rolling tests, just idle and high speed (3 K RPM) I have never had a Subaru with a good cat fail but this is my first junction with a modified OBD II unit) I 'preciate your reading this.

4) Should this be in the "Retrofitting" forum?

I have a 97 OB, T-belt idler pulley locked up and it had a severe train crash. Valve train that is, both heads. I swapped a suspicious EJ22 into the OB - it was suspicious as when I yanked the lump from the boneyard donor it had no T-stat installed. Suspicions warranted - it bubbles into the overflow after any driving. Coolant does not return to previous level and combustion smell exists in the overflow bottle. Also learned the VSS drive gear is bad so the X-mission must come out. I am going to yank the lump then the tranny, (one man band here so I have to do it in stages). So while the tranny is out of house for repair ($75 -pro installation - a man must know his limitations) I want to use the EJ25 shortblock and the EJ22 heads (using the new 2.5 OEM head gaskets). Now, I also have the crossover pipe from an EJ22T and it's turbo charger. (I make my own divorced waste gate down pipes.) I will incorporate both 02 sensors as I need it to pass PA IM tests. Questions: 1) Will the cross over pipe hit the cross member? If so can the member be modified with a BFH? 2) What will the ol' ECU OBD II think of getting "huffed" on. 3) Should I use the baro sensor from a EJ22T? I plan on using either a WCIC or TMIC - have both. I also plan on adding two Bosch CIS cold start injectors triggered by a boost switch (one for each head mounted in the intake). Wish I had a wide band. Call me loony but don't call me late for happy hour.

I go to a "U Pull It" type boneyard and get them out of Hondas and Toyotas. The winding impedance/resistance is approx. the same (don't know if they are fed a duty cycle signal control) and they last forever. Just solder swap the connector, little heat shrink tubing and as the N'yorkr's say "fergitaboutit". As for the gettin' grumpy Your "OK. I'm getting a little tired of this BS already. I still have found no good reason for the CEL to keep throwing EGR solenoid codes so the CEL stays on. .... No, the alternator's fine." And reading your entire initial question vs. the last post you made. Well I guess some of us old farts take a bit of umbrage. Sorry, I apologize.