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Very nice job thanks for sharing. me bets that puppy "BARKS" You have the wastegate opening just vented to the atmosphere!!! Very nice job on the IC ect instal. Exactly what I am doing to my 88 RX (aside from I'll be using a WRX by pass valve) Can you email better pictures?

So the very sweet lady that owns the 78 Brat I just bought was nice enough to send me the factory owners manual (still in it's plastic holder, looks like it was never opened in anger) along with the all the service records from back when it was purchased by her father. I was "thumbing" through the manual and ..... WHOA!!! What's this?? "Adjusting the ignition points.........." Anybody wanna guess how long it has been since I had to adjust the points in a vehicle? Now where did I put those go- no go feeler gauges- arf arf I have a feeling this journey back in time is going to be a real trip - if you catch my drift.

Ted, My thinking on the matter, lame as it may be, was that I didn't want to remove the oil pan or risk chips getting sucked up by the oil pump Now, it has a mesh screen filter but..... That is why I removed the drain plug and did all the work on the bench. I used a drill press and vise for the hole. You would have to get a metric tap if that is the what the thread pitch is on your sender. Mine was NPT, for oil changes, I have a quick disconnect plug on it's wire (as you can see). I didn't want the plug extending out too far, with the adapter you have it may (if the adapter is the same size as the drain plug hole? your method may work.)

Jim, The blower relay is under the dash above the ECU,. not under the hood. You might try this. Look under the glove box where the resistor pack and blower motor is. The motor will have a two wire connector. The wire colors are green with white and blue. When the key is on the green with white wire should have battery voltage on it. You can test it with a test light. or set the fan blower speed on high and put a jumper wire from a 12 volt sourse on the green with white wire by inserting it in the back of the connector. If the test light does not light the jumper wire will make the fan run Do not discount a furry creature jammed in the blower's squirrel cage. Here is what you will see under the glove box

JW, Snow worries mate Raven make mine prozac please here is Willy's cockpit, red display almost centered is the lab digital readout

The FSM shows the FI "coolant thermosensor" is located in the lower water passage manifold under the intake manifold. It is beside the pipe for the heater hose, and is threaded in almost horizontal with it's leads facing the rear of the vehicle? The one GG is speaking of is called the "thermometer" it is for the dash gauge not the FI system. There is one in the rad called the "thermoswitch" The FI thermosensor can be tested I'd check/replace the ig amp first

JW, chill brother, you said gauge gauges have sender units not thermocouples Sounded like you had your mind set on a gauge simple as that. You're welcome for the idea, drawing and the picture. Frank, temps range around 20 degrees higher than the coolant (~210 - 220 deg F) (I also have a TC in the thermostat housing) Summer high boost runs up large hills can elevate it to the 240 range. I do not have an oil cooler.

Mary, you may want to give Mill Supply a call http://www.millsupply.com/ It has been said they have more parts available than the catalog shows. Here is a .pdf file of their Brat parts page ftp://www.rustrepair.com:24/subaru.pdf

I suspect the spark problem may be your ignition amplifier This devise is just a power transistor mounted on the coil bracket It is directly below the coil. Bone yard model would be my choice.

Well it probably wouldn't interest you. I now have a lab digital Fluke in my dash array. It uses thermocouples (TC). These are just TC wire with the end welded together forming the TC junction. So I simply run it down the dip stick hole. It locks in place with the dip stick.

Rh, The B1800 engine is a stout unit (you must have the model with the 5 main bearing config as you say single Stromberg) I put a Roots super charger (boost pressure 7 psi.) on a TR 3 once. These have basicly the same "tractor engine" derivitive. The engine ran great for about 15 seconds. The top ring on each piston was pulverized into ant sized chuncks. Just a thought. I had several "B's" still have the driveline from a 69 sitting in the basement. I am partial to TR's but MG's are kewl to.

Mary, congrats on the new Brat Good luck with the mods and paint hope it turns into the M...mobile you want. Paul, Todd and Mick have all mentioned this split personality that the 78 Brats had. Does anyone know the month that the production semantics changed?

Possibly the plug wires are reversed Swap the wires you have going to cylinder one with cyl three.

I have done it two ways My first method was to drill and tap the oil pan drain plug

just another thought the ECU for the T engines has a special fuel map when the engine is fed above atmospheric pressure.. This "fatten's" up the mix to cool the combustion chamber, this aids in the prevention of the dreaded detonation. A way to do this is to add cold start injectors from Bosch CIS system (2 - one for each head) mounted in the intake runners. They could be triggered by the same pressure switch the T models use for turning on the dash "Turbo" light. This switch should also trigger a by pass for the FI coolant sensor. Thus telling the ECU to go into "open loop" and disregard the 02 sensor's output.

one over above the master cyl this does not count the sock on the fuel tank pick up I am sure you know it's a "fuelie" the pressure is over 35 psi so no cheap-0 plastic jobbers. I saw a turbo sedan in a bone yard once - reason it was in the boneyard? Guy put a plastic carb type filter on it how they say "KA- BLAMO"

many thanks Mick, most excellent link

It has been stated the early Gen 1 Brats (circa 78) when in the GL guise.. came equiped with a tachometer. I am asking if this is true as my 78 has the quad head lamps and the 4WD grill badge but no tach

This new forum is the mutt's nuts My congrats and thanks to all that pushed for it's creation. I am new to the Gen 1 and have embarked on a seriously steep learning curve. Any one having a FSM for the 78 series and would like to sell it - please PM me. I would kindly ask What years were the "Cyclops" third eye "passing lamp" available? I do not want to add anything to my 78 that was not factory original equipment. The sales brochure does not list it as an option in 78. Carfreak thanks for the way kewl .pdf link.

I am at a total loss in reference to Buddy's comment? Unless he is referring to somehow loosing compression through the stripped threads, say what?? N-Knee Ways Your problems can be associated with several crucial elements in proper engine operation. Air/fuel supply spark for ignition compression Any which can cause your problem. Does you car have an 02 sensor and thus a feed back ECU controlled carb? The 02 sensor could be to blame as could the coolant sensor for the ECU. Air cleaner is not on your list Ambient temperature is not mentioned Try a can of "SeaFoam" (any good auto parts stores) in the petrol tank.

The sound the intake makes when you give it WOT (Wide Open Throttle) is a dead give away. If it gives a deep whoooooo but does not accelerate like it should, indicates a rich condition. A lean condition normally results in a backfire through the carby. Black soot on the sparking plugs will result also. A cheap air fuel ratio gauge tied into the 02 sensor will also show you this.

Please be aware that the ECU can throw "ghost codes" It can do this if the engine ever stalls or fails to start. Recommend you follow the procedure in the USRM and clear the codes. Drive and if the CEL illuminates. Check for the new code asap. I would change the F.I. coolant thermosensor myself. It is located below the gooseneck (upper rad hose connection) as 85 Sub says. It points horizontally toward the pass. side. Has a wire permanently attached to it. Is item no. 9 (circled) in the below illustration They cost more than 10 GWs I'm afraid. That would be the cost for the dash gauge unit - the wrong one. (Item no. 8 below) Use an OEM if possible. The code for the ACV (Air Control Valve) effects the idle. Hope this helps.

Js2, The resistance you quoted for the WGS is still too low. When the green connectors are connected there is a series of self testes the ECU puts the engine controls through. The WGS may be in the loop, the fuel pump is for sure. I would retest the WGS or find a substitute.

The WGS is a solenoid valve, the valve part is NO (Normaly Open) The resistance reading you are getting is too low, the FSM says 17 to 21 ohms. But if the coil were shorted it wouldn't show the ground point connection you mention. I will assume you checked the coil to see if it is internaly shorted to the body of the unit, this could be causing the ground short you speak of. The BW wire to the WGS is connected to fuse #11 so if the wiring to the unit was shorted to ground you would see battery voltage across the the connector, but this might also be the control system in the ECU showing you battery voltage. You could unplug the ECU and retest, the battery voltage should not appear across the terminals when this is done. But the BW wire should still show +12 Vdc when tested to ground. Hope this helps

Mick, I guess you mean this one? You're right, there may not be room in the shed for both of them. I'll keep you on the top of the list, as I see you need another for your collection ;^)