bgd73

On the ea81's they hold the unibody together- forgot all about it.

It is most likely not the wiper engine failing. I took a spare apart thinking of the heavy snow and ice and rain winter is going to bring.Don't blame the electrical system just yet if everything is working (seemed to be number one blame over the years). The fix should take the amp draw to very minimal and increase speed of wipers. I basically took it all apart then greased the shiny ungreased stubborn turning parts- now better than ever, parts free spinning. They forgot to do a few normal grease jobs on my car in several places.The trickiest part of this is keeping the brushes and springs from falling out. There is two little "nubs" at the top of eacj brush housing. Wrap the brush cable onto it to keep the springs in place. Other than that, it goes together like it came apart. There may be some stubborn pieces, don't hesitate to pull apart or even take a small hammer to it.

Upon taking my ea82 apart I never realized until then, that the oil pump rides the seam of the block. I would guess there are failures ,not breaking necessarily, just hardness integrity,with the bolts that hold the block together and allowing vibration over the years (fatigue- starts micronically first, attacking tightest tolerances.)Oil pump needs precision vibrationless. Alot of heat and time could do that integrity in. In cold environments , the EA82's naturally run until you literally get sick of the car. I was in southern PA from Maine before I ever saw a temp guage go beyond halfway in my sube and stay there contently for any length of time. I was startled to see the amount of posts about oil and pressures and leaks since I have been hanging out here at usmb. My car had 161k a very hard life, and the only leaks were my sloppiness. I will clean up the 13 year old pump and call it a good spare part. I have bent pushrods, even new ones, for reasons I haven't figured out yet. I like the overhead cams and belts of the ea82. In a roundabout way I am certain it helped oil flows without pushrods.

very good idea. there is a popular set of four mini ratcheting straps bright orange, I found at home depot, a car parts store and even the discount salvage store- all the same brand. The bright orange is good for flag in a breakdown, and doubling up the 1000lb limit can haul the car (if not extreme). I have those in my car, forgot to mention them.

I broke a pump when my DL turned 16 years old, unpainted, rusted,and making strange noise, it finally died. A problem the soob carbed had was full of bad advice and repairs back when they were popular (can I safely say "STUPIDITY"?). My bro-n-law was a manager at a local parts store and handed me a rather large "master" fuel pump that had a rating of 3-7psi. What the heck, the price was right, especially for the fuel filter built in to the sucking side of the pump. It gave my old soob something it really deserved through the whole rpm range, including a bellow quite unique in throttle response. I tinkered with every setting for the carb via a manual, and the whole time it was the OEM fuel pump (correctly operating mind you). I further analyzed "why" there was problems with oem via the subaru manual- 3.3 lbs is what the carb needs to function. subaru by thier own cheap means to get by had an exactly a 3lb pump. It made for slow float refills, and on and on and on with strange spongy throttle etc. Now To get to my question. The master I was given just 2 years ago, doesn't exist anymore. I am assuming some kind of clearance sale allowed me to have it so cheaply. Anyway, at the same store I found this Bosch Pump. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=BOS&mfrpartnumber=69405&parttype=52&ptset=A Once I saw the old Porsche 912, capable of two carbs and knowing it needs 5psi at a passive volume (if need be) utilize the same pump. I am convinced this is THE pump to cure the old soob. Anyone use it? A good way to tell a pump doesn't keep cramming in a one way direction with no passive calm is by other cars it would fit. By passive I mean the opposite of terms like "posi-flow" that never back down no matter what your foots placement on the throttle is.A passive gives it easy, and doesn't cram when it doesn't need to. Anyway, it is a delicate subject, a mistake can do bizarre things with a carb.I am hoping someone tried this pump on thier 3lb Hitachi soob.

Yes indeed, that sucks. I have yet to do that to an old soob. The problems to go that far must be real obvious if you inspect closer to engine, like oil pump, even bad bearings lubed go a looooong way in the ea82. The cylinders all balance each other out- unlike the inline monstrosities I have annhilated simply because my foot is on the throttle. . A knock in the old soob may not even need bearings in other words.

Are you going to try them on an old sube? I was discouraged the second I looked at them 1. they open up into a windstream,is a bump going to open them? 2. does the soob hood have a flat spot big enough for truly flush fit 3. Ice and rain takes its toll - especially towards the front of hoods on any car 4. If you pop one, will one be tight? which one stays tight in the ever flexing front end.. 5. I saw this on a v8 car, the above plague never ended. In the case of 4wd soobs especially, there is enought movement to keep at least one tight a majority of the time... Using hood as more structure than OEM single middle pin is a bad idea.. unless the body was floating rubber mounted on a seperate frame. Or the hood was made daintier than oem to handle the movements, and making thingss weaker is not a good idea to accomodate a novelty.

Windshield is nothing to get worked up over. I took one out in its 17th oem year (never been pulled) with a cable meant for removing windshields that cut right into the tough petrified stuff.Saw all temperature extremes prior to pulling. It even smoked the cable (it was that tough). After that is easy, get the stuff for your car. I also gooped it right in with ge sealant and permatex for reasons subaru claims does not happen. The same windshield pulled a year and half later with a broken hood cable removed from its sleeve easily. The newer urethanes are great, they toughen just a bit after the initial seal and tend to stay there. Once out get the surface of glass edges really smooth. I don't like using chemicals there, as windshields are laminated and if wrong chemical gets in between the layers, the windshield can be ruined. Soobs are easy in comparison to alot of cars, and the windshield is easy to carry, the smaller the laminated windshield the tougher, the olds soobs are some of the toughest. I have one stored in a closet in the house right now.

I was searchiug for available parts for my 87 GL with anticipation. what is the anti-backfire valve? My chiltons does not even list it. the part I found: http://www.partstrain.com/products/Engine/Air_Intake/Anti_Backfire_Valve/1987~SUBARU~GL~4~1.8~LOY-4WD-001.html I had an 87 dl that backfired through the exhaust, and now an 87 GL that does it through the carb. Does this valve have anything to do with it? where is it located? The GL is my concern now with cyl heads that have no asv ports, just an egr valve like on the spfi cars. Thanks for help. I was just going to simplify the way it is now, but want to be sure. EDIT: Woops. I searched and found it. will use GD's advice. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=62694&highlight=anti+backfire+valve FURTHER EDIT: Hey an item I really liked was the air bypass on spfi - letting off the throttle had no engine smoke, as it kept positive crankcase ventilation. I would like to use the spfi type egr valve open to clean air, open when throttle is all the way closed for clean engine braking. I will restrict it so as to not give it too much , maybe run a hose to airbox with fitting from intake after head is plugged. what vacuum line opens at idle on the carb (if one even exists)? That would really help the pcv and backfires.

The electrical is sensitive. the unpainted rusty driveshaft going to the back isn't there to eat everything the alternator has got for power. If there is just a slight problem, the 2wd lets you know. Code 34 and 35 was very common on mine. I eventually scrapped the egr part but kept the purge solenoid for the fuel vapors.If to keep things painted well, etc, even the lights are brighter than I have seen on the ea82s and the injection gets an even faster curve. I am glad you like it. The "majority" it seems, where I live is the 4wd fan club if it means bent bodies and broken parts just to keep that noisy rear end spinning 2 more tires. On another note, I just learned something about the 2wd even after it is gone. I took the gas tank out figuring the wagon I just purchased may need one (it is 20 years old). The 2wd for most of its life sagged in the back. Guess what it did for strange heavier chemicals lurking in the back side of the tank...I had never run out of fuel so a heavier than fuel chemical never left it. Anyway, Upon storing the tank near my tires, a quick squirt came out the filler neck and hit one of my tires- The next day I noticed some tread nearly missing and an oil color rainbow around the edges of the soft spot created overnight. I knew it wasn't a normal gasoline.The tread melted off my 2 month old tires right where I spilled. Draining the tank entirely with back end way up in the air wouldn't be a bad idea. I am draining it out completely while it is out of the car. It may exlain why fuel additives were dramatically improving the engines tune in mine- all while there is no water in the fuel. Woops double post.

The electrical is sensitive. the unpainted rusty driveshaft going to the back isn't there to eat everything the alternator has got for power. If there is just a slight problem, the 2wd lets you know. Code 34 and 35 was very common on mine. I eventually scrapped the egr part but kept the purge solenoid for the fuel vapors.If to keep things painted well, etc, even the lights are brighter than I have seen on the ea82s and the injection gets an even faster curve. I am glad you like it. The "majority" it seems, where I live is the 4wd fan club if it means bent bodies and broken parts just to keep that noisy rear end spinning 2 more tires. On another note, I just learned something about the 2wd even after it is gone. I took the gas tank out figuring the wagon I just purchased may need one (it is 20 years old). The 2wd for most of its life sagged in the back. Guess what it did for strange heavier chemicals lurking in the back side of the tank...I had never run out of fuel so a heavier than fuel chemical never left it. Anyway, Upon storing the tank near my tires, a quick squirt came out the filler neck and hit one of my tires- The next day I noticed some tread nearly missing and an oil color rainbow around the edges of the soft spot created overnight. I knew it wasn't a normal gasoline.The tread melted off my 2 month old tires right where I spilled. Draining the tank entirely with back end way up in the air wouldn't be a bad idea. I am draining it out completely while it is out of the car. It may exlain why fuel additives were dramatically improving the engines tune in mine- all while there is no water in the fuel.

Congrats. you have the fastest secret high speed EA82 known to very few...neglected, prejudiced against beaten and left for dead in the homeless man's gutter. Don't tell anyone it is worth more than all of them when you add dollars to common sense... The 4wd struts are too short for your 2wd. The 2wd already has longer struts. It is a goofy look until you drop the front.Do not raise the back end. My whole web site revolved around the 2wd for the 18months I loved mine. Maybe you can get something interesting out of it. Below is the front suspension hack cheaply. there is much better ways to do it. I did it as an experiment at first. http://93loyale.com/clock.html I did it the cheap way, it is a must have for handling. the droopy back end will reveal it to you soon enough if you drive in defensive places. It will cruise in the 80's for 400 million flawless miles. The 2wd is seriously is my favorite with an ea82. I used to hop in the car and drive and drive and drive anywhere, anytime. How's the lack of rear diff noise and stiffness? Another thing I loved about my 2wd. The unibody realistically should last forever in the back end. wanna swap my gl d/r for it?

Determining the beating that thing took from the photos, the "rusted" subframes are in better shape than what I fix here to go down the road for my daily errands (j/k -really. I don't cheat inspections with a fancy outer appearance). I agree with loyale2.7turbo. where is that dual range tranny headed when your done beating the lucky soob that had one, someday to be a collectors item? I am glad you have fun- couldn't you use an old delta 88 or some other relic that won't ever be a classic because it is truly broken in the frame rails? The sight of that car reminded me of what a friend and I did to an old IH Scout with a v8 now worth who-knows-what. Don't scrap everything, there is some good stuff for us junk people . Upon rebuilding an old sube, I realized what I let go of as no good, and I am truly mistaken.

I just bought it in August, thanks.Bald tires are a huge peeve to me. That is newer than my photography makes it look for real apparently. non-snow treads. It is definately a chemical on the tire- it is localized and mushy and I can scrape it off, strangely. after a quick web search and question asked at yahoo it appears to be methyl ethyl ketone. The odor that goes with it matches description as well. Modern tires can take brake fluid, battery acid, etc. The chemical mentioned is used to dissolve synthetic rubbers. Now that I'm back to a hillbilly wagon some knobbier treads are going to be fit.The dump site nearby has been a source of wild chemistry for years. Total loss like bangor maine (I am not joking). Time to pack up the rust bucket- this place killed the sube. This forum has many photos of northwest hills.. I am intrigued.

The plot thickens to reveal lies and deceipt... I was moving my car tires, the tires that were on my wrecked sube.Something has eaten the rubber! I stuck my hand in it! The accident scene was right next to a giant landfill next to the highway. I clearly remember smelling it horribly- I even leaned towards my window cracked open to cram at least a few molecules of air in the car.What kind of chemical does this to a tire? Can it be found in a landfill site intentionally? Would it explain the flat tire on the 20mph Honda going down the highway with a dead battery? According to my insurance company I am paying for minimal damages. There is a truth missing and it is really bothering me. This is photo of the rotting spot- completely odorless. Bizarre. As a post mentioned there was a very slow Honda in front of me, and I found she had a flat tire after she pulled in behind me at the accident scene. She also had a very low battery.My car, nor the accident caused it. Was there something in the road attacking cars? Would it explain the weird driving on the camaros behalf? The exhaust of the camaro was also climbing into my car- clearly a catalyst convertor burn problem. I was almost dizzy with the bad air. The mystery goes on...

a bic lighter for smoke signals and/or cellphone.

I like thermodynamics. Could I sum it up with bgd73's law of thermodynamics: "If you have enough power to create another energy from an even greater energy source, Just Do It." I don't want to mess with lines and hoses and noisy clutch. and heat generated for the EA82 engine already straining.A nice tight system with a smart electric pump like my house a/c running on a 10 amp shared circuit at 115 volts(+/-) without even flickering lights for a total of 11,500 btu.All on its own, its heat in a different locale than a car would have it. A 9000btu tight electrical system a/c would be a quick alternative for nearly 2500 dollars and some roof space taken. I wouldn't ever spend it, but I really like the idea of it.

My 1993 did same things, same codes. A bizarre event happened every time I sprayed the radiator at the local car wash... The CEL light would go out with a click. The radiator only has the thermosensor and fan... I never did decipher it, my car is wrecked now. But to pursue this annoyance, that may be a route that is affecting the egr solenoid. I had 2 functioning "noids" and same code kept kicking in with an audible click. My fuel mileage was great, started great in cold, and idled down decently. even after dismantling the car and seeing every inch of wiring. the only thing close to loose wires was the electric fan on the radiator. Maybe a shared ground within ecu is finding a way to other daintier things like the solenoid valves. I did find some crazy clumped up shared grounds all over the place- one cluster was 5 wires all clamped together and wrapped in oem electrical tape by oem manufacture. To experiment- I was going to put ground from that area in a different spot,from fan side or the the thermosensor, or both, but then I scrapped the noid valves and said to heck with them, along with egr valve. and left the cel light on forever.

I need one too. I saw a belt driven fan by flex-a-lite.( http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/index.html ) they have electric and belt driven. I dismantled my wrecked soob, and piled my stuff in a bin. I went outside to grab the clutch fan for a/c to lock it to spin permanently, and it was gone! I even had paranoid thoughts the paperboy ran off with it! I did have a prob with water pump, it seems the oem belt fan is heavy. The flex-a-lite is an option, or maybe two oem electrics. A bigger fan doesn't necessarily move more air. It is in the blade design.

I searched when I thought my cars overthought engine draining a/c was all done forever for a 12/24 volt system you may see on the roofs of campers and trucks. I think the link below is what I am thinking about, and can testify that it really works on a 24volt (powerfully!), but my question is - will it on 12? particularly the 39 amp version. I was even thinking ahead about a second alternator, but fear the second ground interference. It is a cold fall where I am right now, but thinking ahead for an old sube without a/c.I want to be able to take my car anywhere anytime. I remembered My DL manual steering no a/c gave me symptoms of a heatstroke, after several hours of slow crawling on hot tarmac. and get this one GD: The EGR was 90% percent of top end heat problem! But anyway.. I don't ever want to be in a traffic jam in the 5 o'clock sun at 95 degrees ever again.without a/c. My wrecked Loyale was perfect only for the last half of summer with factory a/c. I am sad.If an engine can turn that crazy inefficient setup- what can electricity do? Again, I only saw the 24v in action and it was quite impressive for a tractor trailer with large bunk. The 12 proportianately would be nice for a little sube wagon. http://www.sailgb.com/p/12v_air_conditioners/

I finally remembered the probs from my other 87. The linkage broke in two spots trying to adjust,one was choke the other a kickdown to slow idle- both in same area of left side of carb (passenger) and a needle valve was dirty, and there was a backfire problem thru carb caused from something that was hellbent on loosening up on its own. I went by the chiltons version of setting float- adjusted the weakened choke- and wow. A freakin masterpiece in all weather.40mpg+ on the highway was the result. The total cost was nothing but my time and a coat hanger (a very strong metal one mind you- my 20guage snips wouldn't cut it ). I may run into a prob without the super duty coat hanger. what am I supposed to purchase to replace the linkages? wire guage and density ideas? I just assume hand make another if the metal is good. The oem stuff went "brittle" lost flexibility. I just got this one going on twenty, I am counting on it needing all of it, and then some.maybe a whole gasket kit for carb.

utility knife. ! Don't forget spare blades! electrical butt connectors carb cleaner for the water kills (if that is where I may be headed) - never use starter fluid. I did have some strange encounters where normal tools aren't normal- even then it is something that just needs persuasion.a hack saw of some kind is something I forgot to mention. I always have one. A portable sawz all zzz ? That would be nice for the seemingly annual mid-summer muffler explosion If going on a long trip, as if to be prepared for crossing the impossible- jack stands gas tank fuel pump (if you have an original- it was one of only two break downs since 1997- timing belts was the other.) I also had rubber gas hose large and small (small was for cooling line near intake and vacuum).clamps to match. I have 4 bright orange straps for things on the roof, can use as a flag on breakdowns and doubling/tripling the 1000lb limited small straps can hold the car. Then theres the spare fluids... I go gallon size for coolant and oil.

That is good to know, thanks. I did take a hard hit and the engine kept running on 2 cyls. Didn't know if they were pressed on or keyed (locked).Will proceed to tear apart with confidence about it. Would like to have spfi heads on the 100k carb engine. 100k isn't much- so it will all line up then without any doubts.

just grab it. All the goofy stuff I found with my absolute favorite ea82 sube (2wd 5spd sedan) is on my website. I may sell 1 4x4 for 2 sedans 2wd It was just enough in all situations, including inevitable accidents. handling, power, and low consumption. A very quiet back end if it has good bearings, and it feels like it is on rails.Very simple to keep things going. I hope you get a good deal.

Holden jackaroos and mazda bongos.