bgd73

I think I am ending up on a mission of sorts. There is my cars twin up the road needing exactly what my 2wd did in the beginning...I earned my current sube because of work rendered and would receive nothing but cash in return... not a profit, but a paralelling to another. I knew a mechanic who saw one of his heavily chored rebuildables years later running. I bet it is satisfying, especially going different than oem on problems, on your own learnings and hates and likes put into something a stampeded poverpaying railroad doesn't know at all. All my previous cars sold are all junked forever. I would love to change that. This place is quite spoiled on what is good due to the fact new england annhilates every make and model. To see these old subes still out there is a good thing to pursue, all so forgotten and cheap. I learned not to get attached to a car, there are very realistic lines drawn, (especially the older I get). I will always remember the subes, most every detail -

you're going on your third oil pump? holy crap. I find these old soobs with 200k and clean oil stopping tod. all else fails try drilling and tapping clean patiently?

One reply is good enough for me.. I have had 1700 buck total disasters - this 2wd sure as heck isn't one of them. An important note is the 2wd was not normal (had problems the starship 4wds rarely had)- I fixed all of it and it became beneficial beyond my expectations. I like it better than my 4wd I had with same engine (I don't believe they were powerful enough to do what I do -alot of highway, defensive driving, in *any* situation. My 4wd proved to be hair raising slow response in some -handling/takeoff/braking). I recently did 75mph up the highway in torrential rain- I would never have attempted it in the 4wd similar.The back end cradles like a damn porsche or beamer and some mercedes- all unpremeditated by Subaru themself: it is basically the axles taken away from the shell of what held them to get the 2wd rear suspension.Handling surprised the heck out of me.I'd like to grab all the poor bastard 2wd standards and know damn well what I built with confidence.Nothing expensive, just time and thought with common sense. I personally want to go attack another one, if I should sell this one.

tie rods too long equally from center of steeering rack can bring top of tires in because wheels are toed out and dragging forcing it to. From the sounds of it, somethin isn't right with the tie rods.can adjust them in?

A tight intake can make a torque monster at expense of high rpms acheived not so quickly. Timing advance is quite simple not to be overthought.Strong fire and disty spinning off the cam correct- thats about it for spark. The spfi is about as tight as it gets -- the carbs are tight new but get sloppy. mpfi? don't count on low end torque until higher rpms. If the curve you're refering to is whole range and timing advance is set correctly, target fuel/air ,even exhaust system, not spark curve. fuel/air is most complicated part of torque and when it gets it, and when it gets rid of it. - so many variables change every run. The larger the cfm, the more errors you will have. The best snappy torque and keeping it I have encountered is by far a good running spfi- they just aren't very fast.

I'm not one for putting chemicals in the base besides good oil, but I do grab those miracle fuel system cleaners once and awhile-- some work the sube for months on end into better(just one use). My latest go was with some discount stuff called suv fuel tank cleaner (who in heck came up with that one), but anyway- it does degum (where valves have the prob over years if heads overheating are ruled out, etc). The crap making top end noise came through intake -- feed fuel some good stuff and go with it.

If to sell I have no clue about the worth of my 93 loyale 2wd 5spd SPFI - A/C, power everything, that rally blue interior, 185/70/13 higher performing 13 inch on specially painted straight steel oem wheels (claims to "bake" in, so far so true)... there is not a shake, wiggle wobble bang clang pop or vibration all the way to 100 mph. This site has alot of TLC I did http://93loyale.50megs.com it made it a bit peppier than any loyale spfi I have been in, among other things subaru really should have taken better note of. Interior is tear free and gets no repulsive engine odors. loves the highway forever @ high 30's to 40's mpg in the mid 70's mph comfortable. 159k .Normal repairs not at site include: rotors, pads, rear bearings (all), transaxles, bug lenses , normal tune up stuff, very thorough pro degreasing of engine bay (links to photo below) and synthetic in tranny, castrol gtx high mileage always in engine. Sound and stable - with a hint of perfomance in very mellow bellow exhaust (quite unique). Strong aftermarket front fenders.I feel I could drive it forever comfortably (and I am a bone-aching disabled mechanic). http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=12422&cat=500&ppuser=12611 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=12423&cat=500&ppuser=12611 Knowing work done, I would pay 1500 to 1800 US The a/c may need a high pressure switch, works most of time (hot weather keeps it working). heater switch 1 & 2 no function as well as clock I won't be replacing (its on radio). Forseeable normal maintenance may be rear hubs and rear quarter panels (27 bucks a piece) in a few years.I was all over every nook and cranny about body repair. I got rear wheel wells with expensive chassis paint for a tractor trailer as a preventative (no probs at all right now) and that is truly all I can think of about that :-\ Be honest and stab at my efforts to keep me humbled A buyer could go several years without doing anything but oil changes.

Not to doubt subes -- but I saw a 1.8T logo on the back of a newer Audi as it blew by me in a whisper of wind- left me frowning and what sube could have done on a perfectly balanced equivalent. I am willing to bet the 1.8 sube would outrun the audi in longevity (of course) but it did get me thinking on what performance could be acheived, modern like, on the ea82 - that I can't seem to kill even in my own lack of discipline at times.

Oh No. Are you having an American automobile owner relapse? Just the aluminum heads were made under 6 tons of pressure (If I'm not mistaken American cast iron didn't even go that far). I have had some crazy runs in old subes -- and not once have I encountered a catastrophe. Your build sounds disciplined enough as well. I did find a place on the web for EA81 and EA82 forged stuff, very expensive. I personally have gone to rpms "not likely" in just an n/a. My doubts are gone. Mistakes with your build snapping something is a mechanics prob no doubt.I was a v8 breaking fan for several years and *sighed* relief at this 3 main bearinged wonder called the "EA82".Exceeding oem numbers for performance is all over this board. Below is an interesting site: http://ramengines.com/_wsn/page3.html

That is a good note about poverty and loyales -- that is where I find them undying after years and years of neglect-- STILL RUNNING. I've also been personal with my old sube through a life's extreme (very) that left me with nothing in a DL wagon that wouldn't ever pass inspection again without serious help.The law could have hauled it away if I were pulled over. It is strange to say I cried over a car after I got what I needed (9 years later) and let it go. I am far from an emotional person. With times better now and to be-- I still seek the Loyales. There are imprezas and legacys out there that I still pass by to go for the EA82. Incredible engine/durability/economy that never got truly glorified like the other subes.All people need a car more than once- I will never prejudice the sounds and sights that go with a neglected old sube ever again. If a car were a saint saving a few impoverished lives.....A loyale would no doubt be one of them.

Cheers to that one-- no doubt about it Can't you just get bearings, ignore plastiguage if you know what your putting it into? Manufacturing original didn't use it.

case it in aluminum sheet with silicone inbetween thin layer -- I bet it stays cooler than in the car

So there is in fact 20 year old ecu's out there running.... I feel better about a few more years and not doubting it. I am still startled at seeing a 1988 with mpfi -- some folks and thier areas must have been in on the cutting edge of subaru evolution (west coast perhaps?). It is not where I am at all. In fact to go to the dealer now is to find a pile of plane jane wagons and even the hood scooped turbo subes are mellow-- I have yet to see the blue wrx sti anywhere on the lot (I have never seen one up close - unless I was towards southern new england, or someone passing through my area). Ahh to live in the hicks - one man's junk is yet another's treasure.

Hey speedo synch question-- what is 4800rpm in 5th gear on 3.7 final gear? My speedo sticks, and hangs, I already got a speeding ticket because of it. Another note about the ea82 sucking thru a 30mm spfi straw- that is less than 1.25 inches (1.18).It started cooling down around 90mph (on my bad speedo) as I was accelerating to gain noticable throttle, and climbing faster to who-knows-what for top end. Incredible- it was actually cooling to nature even tho the demand was greater to perform.I have never encountered an engine that did this under high demand for any length of time- especially to note 158000 miles on just about all original engine parts. Where is that new EA82 getting manufactured again anyway

no 1986 here had it. My 1987 was considered the last of the mechanics car (simply carbed)- as 1988's were first around here to get ecu's and injection from there on out. I am assuming to blame demographics/economy for low population of maine getting the first of anything.If it had the bug lights it was ecu originally, four headlights- always a carbeurator original, thats how I learned them. Interesting sube info about 1986-

I was simply stating I had a heavy clock (large physically for a clock) at similar speed- just a bit faster, for repair if need be. That generation didn't have the micron level nor precision of today, however minimal it may be different now- 20 years for a clock in my car that starts at -25 F, had 2 bad alternators, all the battery changes in 13 years and outright short circuits zapping ECU resistors, got me thinkin... An ECU permanent disaster is imminent. Something to think about...I agree about no upgrade. After checking on "new ECU" for a loyale @ 700 bucks...my soldering gun and old pc parts are standing by like they have already to bail my ecu failure out on my own. My pc had a clock that "swayed" and verified with an age old unix prog and comparison to nuclear time servers. The car and its extremes, including all the different speeds it travels and stops must be torture on the clock in comparison to a pc.How the 88's or late 87's with these ecu's are still running must be fantastic engineering that I hope I am doubting for my own pessimism.

Upon same question-- I found this 3 year old thread My blurry pic is 100mph even @4800 rpm in a 2wd 5spd on tall tires and fresh rims. Going uphill downhill and corners on highway I didn't know were sharp.. I chose to keep it there at 100 even, at 1/4 throttle for 10 miles (it seriously could have cruised to 120mph on the 3.7 final gear).I really wanted to know how casually fast after stiffening the rubber intake boot (it was very responsive to my fix). I absolutely knew they were way underestimated.I wonder what would a turbo high comp mpfi do to get to top end.. this 2wd would do the same but take longer to get there. I swear I could have done this speed for 100 miles (do not try at home kids- I'm a lunatic sometimes on my many many repairs and hacks and confidence)

I have had absolutely no problems with bosch platinum- not the crazy platinums, the regular looking spark plug platinum. I checked after 30k and they look great- white hot ends, no wear anywhere. I did save gas like thier ad stated as well, but I did notice engine runs a bit warmer.Where spfi starts closing off fuel due to heat, the plugs aren't necessarily burning more efficient, but making the spfi dish out less fuel-- either way, it is all good for me. There is a distributor cap that ends up horrible, I got it at advanced auto- brown in color. It refused to be normal until old cap was back in. May have something to do with the photosensor for fire not liking the material cap was made out of (our only guess). Bizarre. I am still on 7mm wires - they are 1mm quicker than the hotrod 8's full tune-up needs good fluids - synthetic in tranny (like valvoline) is very good stuff, takes awhile to synch, but it is worth it when it does. Degrease the hell out of the engine bay - especially if you still have EGR. Alot of electrical anomalies go away - took mine 3 times over a year to see how bright my white engine bay really is with stuff like "bombs away" truck degreaser being high pressured from a flame throwin K1 burnin steam cleaner. the best tune up my car engine had yet. The spfi didn't get bothered all that much after drenching the bay for 45-60 minutes straight.

Some of these ecu's will be turning 20 soon. There is in fact things to tinker with. A newer clock isn't a bad idea on the old monster micron chips. I inadvertantly stopped constant pinging even on bad gas, with a 10ohm resistor at R1 (lead resistor - first thing to get zapped while playing with gadgets under the hood )on the board. Clock gets shaky at first, then dead-- when? the older ecu's will tell for sure. If to increase the clock hertz, I would be confident on a bigger resistor at r1 to get away with it (try at home at your own risk -- I think I am going to). All wiring taking more than 60 hertz is taking a beating. I proved it to myself with killing speaker wire on a big radio (similar beating as ECU circuitry).Time will reveal it...

I had one apart to get close look.. they seem to be .23 micron chips (last quite a while-- like an early 90's PC). The clock seems to be replacable if right hertz is found. To get a new "shaker" with more modern discipline would be interesting for longevity, precision. there has been changes on our own modern pc after the loyales were built on the "clocks" allowing for huge multiply (lots of gigahertz). I would assume it to be the a nice upgrade for a simple ecu. I found the similar hertz on an old diamond sound card for my pc from 1997-- got me thinking ,a 4 year newer clock on .23 micron chips . If ecu is not .23 micron chips, could someone inform me?

Sounds like quite a ride-- exactly what I want to put together, except I want to keep oem small turbo. Must be very powerful-- hope this build stays together for you. Do you ever plan on having a pro track time for reference?

I went with fast reacting "stant" thermostat . It is smaller than oem-- "lasting longer" is not something I can say just yet.Did stop my yo-yo prob with the oem thermostat (absolutely refused to stay ambient at engine full warm), of course my OEM was 13 yrs old with miracle radiator goop stuck to it, so having a good OEM one may have been better choice.:-\

Is just water enough? I found some slime in my system as well as the dreaded miracle sealers that clog radiator. After new radiator, I don't want any cruds in there. Is the bottles I found at the part store labeled for system coolant flush nothing good? I would just assume keep a garden hose on it until it was cleared out, but would take extra step if the flush fluid works.. anybody used it? The last time I used garden hose it completely clogged a few more rows on the radiator-- I guess 15 lbs water pressure is a bit much , after seeing the release pressure on radiator cap (0.9?) :-\

The one cores love to clog in the exact wrong places - where the most air hits them consistently. Will be getting brandy new 2 core this week-- it is ashame it is already getting into the 40's at night, so I may not know true test until I drive to hot weather, or wait til next year . I am guessing 195 thermostat still opens in normal time, and really hangs on to a steady ambient for the engine - another plus along with cool enough.That MPFI turbo parts car is still sitting there tempting me at this moment..I am ready to play around with the old ea82's more than I have been.