xoomer

I use that spot between the seat and the e-brake.Wedge it in there!

I know, But I Work in Parts for a different brand and we use the aftermarket for axles all the time. and we havn't had this problem. but we are talking KIA and Nissan. I thought I'd give em a shot.

Well, O'Reilly's is going to Refund me on the axles and I'm going to put a Rebuilt set in my Subaru from My local suby shop.

Hey, So What's the Deal with Axles? I've put 3 sets of O'Reilly New, one Set of Autozone Axles, and a set of Napa Axles. All I get is Clickity Click click. Its all intermittent and kind of getting on my nerves. I know this has been covered before but my Search-fu is not good.

I'm having a similar problem. does you're car stumble occasionaly when cold on the road?

even at 25 its worth it. I might pick one up.

In my fatigue and anger I managed to swap 1-4 and 2-3 so on the cap it was right but on the plug it was wrong.

figured out that it isn't a timing issue. It will start sometimes and then Immediatly die. it seems as though I've got an Electrical problem.. I'm going to start unplugging sensors to see if I can get some change somewhere. If I cant get it I'm going to have Tom tow it to Superior.

I've got it 1-3-2-4 on the cap to the plugs. I'm going to rotate the crank one more turn and try again.

I thought 1-3 were passenger side, and 2-4 were on the drivers side.

Installed a known good motor this weekend, got everything hooked up. it has fuel and has spark. (At least some spark.) I can't get it to start... The best I can do is get some coughing and a backfire out the carb. I followed this Any ideas? I've also replaced the distributor and plugs... I don't believe I have it 180 out. any suggestions? What is the 100 percent accurate way to get this done. I have this problem every time I have to pull a distributor. Edit: I'll bet I have it 180 out. I'm an idiot... I havn't thought to pull the distributor and turn the crank... then re drop it.

I'm expected to train people at much less than that.

What are EA82's running? edit... N/M.. I might still be calling you shortly as I can't find a decent replacement any where.

I worked next door to a Subaru Dealership ( probably the worst Subaru Dealership in Seattle) And I had my Uniform on with my dealer logo, and pulled up in my 2nd Gen Legacy (which was lowered, had HID's and a system) but still looked quite respectable. and even though they had two BRZ's on the show room floor they refused to show me one. Oh well.. I'll wait until my dealership gets one. Then I'll take it as a demo.

Well it dawned on me after I wrote this post that the Driver side head bolts were a bear to break loose, and the passenger side ones were not that tight. (nowhere near 65 ft pounds) I came to the conclusion that someone has probably been in this motor before and did a botched job. I'm still replacing the motor with one I found for sale because I don't want to risk it right now, but I will probably get these heads machined and checked as well as the the rest of the motor resealed and keep it around/sell it because it appears to be low miles. Thanks!

So, I've got a 92 loyale that started to smoke coolant at start up, (and only at startup.) So I looked at it and it seemed to be seeping coolant at the intake gaskets, So I replaced those. and afterwards it would sometimes start but it acted as though it had lost compression on one bank. and then started smoking really bad (all the time) So I was resigned to finding a motor and replacing it. Fast forward a couple of months. I finally found a motor thats available that I'm going to throw in so I pulled this motor out and broke it down, for what I call an after action report.. so I know how it failed and to see if the parts are salvageable.. but I can't find the leak. The heads are not cracked in the usual places (that I can see, and those cracks have always been noticeable before.) and the gaskets were surprisingly intact. The only thing I saw was that #1 piston & sparkplug was clean. So, My Assumption is that the problem lies in #1 valves or in the Head gasket. Does this sound right? Thanks for reading with me.

did he have a tree fall across the back of it? if so he also bought my brat.

Hey all, I'm back. After spending some time on a bike, and having a bad streak, I've acquired a 92 Loyale- That should be a good car for me. I thought I had given up on subaru after selling my brat. and loaning out my 95 legacy-- Stats on the loyale. SPFI JDM Engine (unknown install) 201K Miles Red 5spd 4wd I saw it and fell back in love. Just in time for the Christmas tree run!

I'm still mad at wongleflute hannah.

I've learned that the epa doesn't mean anything when it comes to mileage... The manual I had got high twenties.. I'm getting high teens and the highest I've gotten is 20.5 mpg in my auto.. it doesn't like the way I drive it.. lol!

I'm doing this because my Gas mileage sucks... and because I want the power and control over my car.

Thanks GG, Your both a gentleman and a scholar.. I was pretty sure I had read about both, but my local Suby shop told me neither was good :-\ I will do some more research!

Ok, So I have a 95 Lego with an automatic trans And I hate it. can I convert it to a manual with relative ease? or is it gonna be wiring and computer swaps? I'm willing to put in the work.. What is a basic list of stuff that I'm gonna need besides Trans, clutch, flyweel, pedal assembly.. cables? or hydraulics? shifter assembly, (do I need driveshaft or diff?) also Can I swap an outback hood (the hood scooped one) onto my lego? Thanks

Superior Service in Burien

I would avoid East Valley auto. I have heard good things about Rob & Steve in Burien at Superior Subaru, or there is a subaru shop on lake city way I can't remember the name of but I still recommend them