1 Lucky Texan

^^^ yeah take care of YOUR pump first!

were any tires changed recently?

ran across a mention that the low-tension coated piston rings was Toyota technology. thanx Toyota!

gd is definitely the expert here, but from reading, it seems to me, rod knock always is progressively worse with increase rpms. Tensioner noise may smooth-out, then might come back in at a different rpm 'range', then smooth-out again. to me, you have tensioner noise. the more recent noise might be caused by water in the spark plug tubes???? If the car is new to you, I'd do a full and 'proper' timing system service - not 'just' the tensioner. I suppose slapping a tensioner on first though, as a diagnostic test, could tell you if you want to procede. GD - does that engine have a 7mm oil pump? anyway, at those miles, I'd consider getting an engine from a wreck with maybe half the miles, put MLS headgaskets on, a timing system service, maybe a 10mm oil pump and swap engines.

there's no other term that describes it? hissing seems like it could only be caused by a gas, air or exhaust wondering if a caliper could be dragging, clutch slipping or....?????

is it a crack? chips can be repaired.

double check the 'bottom' of the air filter box - both my cars have broken slots wher e those tabs go. (right now, I have zip ties holding the box halves together) Even before they were broken, easy to misalign the box after a filter change. vacuum gauge testing might be a good idea.

how long did the OEM axles last? maybe get some used rear axles, regrease and reboot, and run them until they need replacement? Heri makes an axle with extra articulation - you might check into those.

what have you been driving? what did you like about it? what do you want in the next car that you didn't have? without more info, my knee-jerk reactions to your post are one of 2 responses; 1. which one did you like during the test drives? 2. get the Impreza.

holding the gas pedal to the floor while cranking is the 'clear flood' mode.

also look at any 1157-type bulb. turn signal/marker/brake combo or w'ever. The dual filaments occasionally 'sag' and odd things can happen when marker lights or turn signals are on. also look in the bottom of each bulb's socket for corrosion. also, longshot but, test for a change in the problems with the tailgate up - maybe wiring problem inside the 'boot' from the body to the hatch.

battery cables. Sometime they seem OK externally, but corrosion can 'wick' under the insulation.

^^^^ and, when they say it's normal, be prepared to point to another one and have them demonstrate it.

seems normal? you might check the manual about Valet mode - but I think that's a different blink pattern ???

is the check engine light on? have the code(s) read at a parts store and post them here. does the car start and run OK? if not, what symptoms do you have? what year and miles? new to you? well maintained or unknown history on car?

defroster ?

nvr md, read post wrong

if you want a triple check before firing it up, find the tooth count for your engine. With the marks lined up as you are showing, count the teeth between the marks. that's what I did on my wrx after pulling the tensioner pin, cranking-thru twice, but before starting.

o-ring on the hose adapter on top (well, on top of my 03 and 06 soobs) goes bad a lot. common problem that lets air in. I have read of bad hoses and hose clamps causing air entrainment as well.

how many miles on this beast? how old are the plugs? not unusual to get a couple more disabled functions anytime the CEL is on - standard nowadays to disable cruise and traction and maybe some other features. get the misfire under control and go from there.

There are folks that warn against using full travel if using the pedal to bleed brakes on older vehicles. It's evidently possible for some corrosion in the MC to cut into a seal or o-ring. It doesn't seem common in practice, but has been mentioned. if the pedal drops, that's different than feeling 'mushy' so, make sure you're chasing the correct problem. I only know about adjusting p-brakes on some rear disc cars. You may have some adjustment under the console but, that is probably meant to take up slack in stretched cable.

rear springs are much easier than fronts. sometimes, you get better clearance for a socket if one compressor's hex-head faces the opposite direction from the other. doing struts is why I bought my corded electric impact wrench from Lowes - should have bought one 35 years ago!

did you keep the MC topped-up? are you sure? if it sucks in air - may have to be 'bench bled' . but, it isn't unusual for folks new to Subaru to complain about the brakes feeling soft. On a vey old car, the caliper hoses might 'balloon' and replacing could help. Other folks claim a master cylinder brace helps.

^^^ now I think of it, I had the EXtra-S, flelt notchy/scrape-y in the summer. guess they have something different now - HPGO ? probably worth a look. the tech that did my rebuild felt everything, including the synchros looked fine. said it's just 'bad luck' .....? I dunno what to think, but, this is likely my last manual - I just love the car, can't really afford another 5spd disaster....but, I guess it either happens or not..... stupid glass transmission......

my 06's 5spd ate 2nd gear. I was told the case flexes too much and 3rd or sometimes 2nd gets destroyed. one of the reasons I waited so long to get it back from the shop was, there was ,evidently, some part that must be specified at a point during assembly (a shim? washer?...?) that was sent that was the wrong size. maybe whoever rebuilt your trans didn't get a good measurement on that shim? many people report clashing with full synthetic gear lube. NON-synth GL-5 seems the best. There is a walmart synth blend that is cheap and has had some good reviews. At present I have Amsoil Severe Gear in the trans - dunno what it will be like for a full year, but it is a little notchy, but less than the Subaru oil. Best I've had in there was Redline Lightweight Shockproof. Motul has a lot of support, maybe I'll try that in the future. but, really leaning back to the Redline. Temps in Texas may mean our 'best' fluid wouldn't work well in a Kansas winter though! have you pulled your drain plug? maybe the magnet will show you something? (but, it sits next to the diff and some bulkheads/webbing in the trans probably keeps 'chunks' of gear teeth from getting to it) GD is the expert here, just relating my 5spd horror story - $2100 for a rebuild. under 70K miles, no power mods.