1 Lucky Texan

I do think the CPS code needs investigating. but, anothe culprit could be flooding. The next time the problem occurs, HOLD the gas pedal to the floor. This signals the ECU to cut-off fuel ('clear flood' mode) because, , on many cars, a cold start followed by - say - backing the car out of a garage, shutting it off, getting out to close a garage door, OR any similar procedure, can cause the car to flood. Or, leave the car running if safe to do so.

tortured it driving in the worst conditions imaginable

bajamikey - what gear oil is in the trans? some folks report synchro 'clashing' with full synthetic lube. dino GL-5 or maybe the walmart synth blend usually work better.

you should confirm that a thermostat is in place that is OEM or conforms to the OEM specs.

There may be some full synthetics that don't work well in the MT, I have read of many people that have 'clashing' because of the difference in synchronizer speed over the use of conventional GL-5 in the MT. some manuals have a different weight listed for the rear diff than the MT, but many folks use the same fluid so, I guess it's what you're comfortable with. Synthetic is fine for the rear diff BTW. Subaru trans oil would be fine, many choices of course. There's a very affordable synthetic-blend at Walmart that some folks use - , I've used Redline Lightweight Shockproof and really like it in my WRX, at present it has Amsoil Severe gear which seems OK - no clashing this winter that I noticed,( but feels more 'notchy/scrape-y' than the shockproof did), all the way up through Motul ...., lot's of fluids/prices.

check sway bar end links and mounts too.

possibly a wiring problem in the hatch harness boot?

possible dragging brake pad, possible debris between rotor and shield... bearing still quite likely.

I would say 'quite likely' . But, personally, I'd have enough doubt to try a quality rad cap and a soob-style t'stat (there ARE aftermarkets with the larger capsule so, depends on what you actually installed) before condemning a 2.2 often, when the car is overheating from a bad HG, there will be visible bubbles in the rad or overflow. if it was an early 2.5, yeah HGs. there are other guys here though that could guide you better I think.

personal preference, the autos are JATCO but have front diffs and rear wet clutch packs added. If well cared for they are robust. seems to me, soobs that have been thru several owners are more likely to have had one their 2-3 oddball features screwed-up by some owner that didn't care for them well. They must have matching tires, they must have a thermostat with a large wax capsule, it's seems easy for folks to drain and fill the wrong fluids at times, etc. If they have ever overheated or been operated with mismatched tires - their lifespan can be compromised. buying a one owner from an individual can work out well. Or, if you want a project, making a good one from a coupla wrecks/part-outs might get you a nice ride. you might check the classifieds here and over at subaruoutback.org

did it overheat when she was at a light, waiting for a train, or parked idling? fan could be intermittent have you checked the coolant level in the radiaotor? is coolant being pushed into the overflow? do you KNOW the car has a Subaru style thermostat?

cars101.com may have some info for you. while not common, a Baja might be a good choice for you. looks like you're near Horne Subaru so, there may be some vehicles there to test drive - or head into Phoenix?

maybe under the console? that's where the switches are on my H6 03

not sure about 98, but there are 1 or 2 'transition' years where there is easy confusion on which brake equipment fits.

don't some soob models have higher tow limits in other markets?

can you remove shafts on the SVX? also, that car is likely gonna need struts and springs all around

if the Forester is like our Outback, you'd go under the rear seat. Pump and it's float is on the right side (US pass.) and the second float is on the left. You can probably find images and youtube videos , if not for thr Forester specifically, for some similar soob model to get an idea of what to watch for, searching for a schematic would be a good place to start - if the problem is an abraded or rodent-chewed wire somewhere, that means you wouldn't need to pull the access off the gas tank. and be careful about fumes. - it wasn't bad when I inspected my fuel pump (for a different reason), just something to be aware of. on the smell, most likely thing, Impreza-based models of that vintage have fuel clamps in the engine compartment that leak in the winter - many people have solved the leakage by just tightening them. Other possibility would be a rusted filler neck or evap system problem - but those usually throw a code. when it indicates empty - is it really empty?

it really seems like a float or wiring problem.

I guess you're confident it isn't a wheel bearing ? anyway, no one can say you didn't try!

2-3 things; any other electrical problems or new alternator recently? could be a ground somewhere is intermittent. there are floats on both side of the tank, one of them seems to be sticking (most likely) I suppose there could be an issue with the jet pump - but this would only be true if, when it measures empty, it only takes 6 gallons or so, instead or 12 or w'ever (this seems least likely problem)

I completely understand on the impatient wife thing. too bad, hoping for a cheap/easy solution.

could a u-joint be broken?

it is over-filled with refrigerant and the H tube or orifice w'ever can make a hooting noise like that. read of it 2-3 times.

you might check for slipped timing, 1 tooth off? what's the general condition of the car? well maintained? new to you? when was the timing belt system last serviced?

be sure to ask over at subaruoutback.org as well. I can't answer the question directly, but it would help folks if they knew your intended purpose/goal and how much lift. etc.