1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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you might check for slipped timing, 1 tooth off? what's the general condition of the car? well maintained? new to you? when was the timing belt system last serviced? -
be sure to ask over at subaruoutback.org as well. I can't answer the question directly, but it would help folks if they knew your intended purpose/goal and how much lift. etc.
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they will cycle the fans, various relays, for the evap system, etc..... as a test. I've never used them yet, but most Subarus have them, not sure about the 'modern' ones . They are small, green connectors tucked away under the dash somewhere - I think I have read of them sometimes secured to the steering column with tape?
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yeah, go ahead and post the machine shop and if you had a good experience with them. Aside from me, maybe needing them someday, others may read this thread in the future looking for help here in DFW.
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green connectors under the dash should test the fan circuit. but maybe we're past that?
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it's a frustrating issue for all of us. IMHO; after new, 'best' is probably a regreased/rebooted used soob axle from a junkyard. next and variable in quality is new aftermarket (FEQ, Raxles, Suretrak, EMPI, etc.) most everyone agrees that the most unreliable are typical parts store rebuilds.
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magnet sludge seems normal.....
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I wish,... that's what I was asking you about. I had to have 2nd gear/rebuild fixed in my WRX's trans - AWD Tuning in Flower Mound did it. But it's quite far from where I live. I think they were VERY fair with the price, just kinda slow getting it done. Everything else I've done myself so far but, I really can't get deep into it and my age, lack of experience and lack of a 'helper', makes it more difficult to do 'heavy' wrenching. I recently had an air bag recall done (cost me $0 and I got a loaner) on the Outback at the new Sam Pack dealership in Grapevine - but their labor rate is $135/hr !!! It's an option but, pricey and still a longer drive than ideal. Dunno what I'm gonna do when I need a clutch. I might try MP Auto in Pantego - they've helped my daughter a lot and have good reviews - but I dunno how Subaru-experienced they are. I guess a clutch change shouldn't be tricky for them. If I needed an auto machine shop, guess I'd call Arlington Automotive Machine first and have a conversation, I just haven't needed that, yet.
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pretty much already diagnosed, but, you could try one of the chemical block or head gasket tests they sell. When you have the bubbling, use the fluid tester and - if it turns blue to green or yellow, that's combustion products. You can even find youtube videos of the process.
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it's still beautiful to us - but, we've been to CoSpgs a few times - just looking for an inexpensive sightseeing/tourist option.
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any 'chunks' on the diff's drain plug magnet?
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swap axles side to side, maybe it will help find a bad axle or prove the diff is the problem? otherwise - what he said, you might find a lower miles trans from a wreck - chances are decent it was running well when the wreck happened. Fresh fluid and maybe a bottle of Trans-X. reject any trans with a dent in the pan - be very careful with any torque converter that slips out of place - google it, must be seated properly.
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yeah - I think you can use an ohmmeter to test for smooth TPS transition - but the problem seems little more like a sticking throttle plate??? not sure you may be overdue for a timing belt system service unless it was done in about 2011 or so.
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what shop? yeah, the rear main seal 'almost' never leaks - I think in years of reading across several subaru forums, I read of ONE leaking, and it may have been previously replaced. Inspecting the air-oil cover is a good idea, though,the problematic ones were the old plastic covers. gd - are there spots on the crossover pipe he should look at? basically, where would you want to get your eyes to check o-rings/seals and for rust, etc.? what are the 'gotchas' to be careful about over or under torqueing?
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some reading at traildamage led me to Rampart Range Road , looks easiest/best for me. Probably try an out-and-back from the s. entrance at G of the G . If I have time, might try more of it since I'll have a week in the area.
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Might have time for an off-road drive this time in C'Springs . But, I have no mods and will be on all-seasons. Just wondering if there's anything for flatlanders that might get them a little more rugged scenery , without needing a winch or a shovel or a buddy with recovery straps. Not that I, personally, wouldn't love an adventure - but the wife would like to keep her car greasy side down - and we need it to drive back to Tejas.
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could be a vacuum leak and the culprit is still underhood somewhere. possibly a sensor....not sure
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try subarugenuineparts.com - they are in Washington I think
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have someone activate the spray while you watch underhood. I recently had low spray on our OB and it was a deteriorated rubber elbow leaking.
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in case you missed it on the radio - Trump is President.
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wow - what dealership/shop was that ? you may be making this a bigger project that needed. nothing wrong with that if you want a project. front crank and cam seals are often, not always, changed at timing belt service. If they look dry, you could wait on that. never read of rear seal change as a PM - and although I understand on the oil pickup, I dunno if it's worth doing if you aren't into the pan for other reasons. Let us know how that goes. Kinda want a Killer B on my WRX, but, I'm afraid I would introduce a leak from the pan as I have no experience with modern sealant use. if you pull the heads, it's my understanding the bolts are re-used. But, new cam cover gaskets would be a great idea. kinda out of my element so, maybe gd or others can advise you better.
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is it thin and corrugated? split down the side? - maybe related to some wiring???? prev. owner had an amp in the trunk? yeah just trace it, seems kinda hazardous if fuel vapors come from it into the trunk!
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gd is telling you you can buy a new mount for the tensioner - no hassle and no helicoil. gd - isn't there even a design change on the mount - if I recall correctly, it's an upgrade. (or maybe that's only on turbo engines, something about the steel insert the hydraulic pin rides against?) anyway - it's number 9 is this diagram (part # 13156AA052 I THINK, confirm before purchase)
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probably goes to the charcoal canister? older soobs sometimes have rusted holes in the filler neck behind the plastic cover. that will smell.
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there may be some other codes retrievable by the dealership's SSM. there may be a recall or TSB related to the issue. Perhaps even a bad accelerator pedal assembly but, I thought that was older models than 08 and usuallset a code. I'd be tempted to have the battery and alternator checked I think.
