1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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due to ackerman angle steering geometry, the wheel on the inside of a turn is at it's limit so, stress on the cvj is maxed out. You could also try having someone pace the car on foot and pin down the sound for certain. -
in addition to the poor reliability of rebuilt alternators, there have been reports of H6 owners receiving the wrong one. The alt for the 4 cyl. will NOT work for the 6 cyl.
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what they said ^^^^^ plus, you probably know but, ATF is the only fluid you check with the engine idling. if the fresh fluid doesn't help (give it a week or 2) some folks find a bottle of Trans-X helps, but may only last a year or 2 before another bottle is needed.
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contact SOA - dealer will do nothing outside the guidelines without the OK from a Regional Rep or Mother Subie.
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you absolutely DO NOT want to shift that thing. after 04 or so - maybe depending on model, Subaru went with integrated shafts that just pop in/out. There's a springy circlip in a groove near the end of the splines - you'll see.
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after about 04 , they went with axles that have an integrated splined shaft. it is retained by a circular spring clip that will allow it to pop out.
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could there be black or other diagnostic connectors under the dash confusing the issue? but that brings to question why the dealership would miss that
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I'm sure it's been tried, but, a battery neg terminal dosconnect might be helpful. my 06 WRX wagon has gone into limp mode twice. Once it 'seemed' due to a weak battery, the other time the problem was cured with a battery disconnect reset. but your issue seems more severe...? I THINK some cars have had a wire harness become abdraded by the steering column's u-joint - as said above, worth looking around for broken grounds and other wiring problems.
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brief search seems to indicate your Innova reader should read most of the Subaru data - maybe not ABS, but engine sensor stuff should be available. My old 3130 reads my 03 and my 06 cars. if the car is older than 95, it may not read anything....
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????? replied to wrong thread
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unless done in the last coupla years, your car is due for a timing belt system service.
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I dunno how many miles are on the car, but many people would opt for a used transmission from a wreck. If you happen to have very low miles and the car has been meticulously serviced at a dealership - you could try contacting SOA and have a regional rep review the issue. I have read of more than one instance where major components have gone bad at low mileage and Subaru has split the cost or comped the labor, etc. worse thing that happens is they say no.
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- torque converter
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sounds about right to me.
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optional
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shoe huh? did it work like a seat wedge cup holder?
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what about cycling the key from OFF to ON (not start) quickly 3 times? (on some cars, maybe older models, there was a button under the dash you had to push too) might be some info at www.cars101.com
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compression/leakdown testing
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could dipsticks have somehow been swapped or be incorrect? any chance of radiator coolant being pushed thru a leaking trans cooler?
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has the car had a rebuilt alternator installed? Did the shop mention anything about the surging light or any other electrical problems?
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owners lose billions due to rust http://newsroom.aaa.com/2017/02/road-de-icers-cause-3-billion-annually-vehicle-rust-damage/
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the MT shares fluid with the front diff. GL-5 is the spec. check your manual but I believe there's actually a different weight listed for trans vs rear diff - though many folks have probably used the same fluid in both locations. Rear diff can definitely use synthetic. many people report some shifting problems if using full synthetic in the trans. supposedly the synchros spin too well with the improved lubrication. automatics do, of course have their front diff separate from the ATF.
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last line of post 16 seems to be 10mm part numbers. you should ask gd to confirm, and, when you receive the part, measure the rotor thickness.
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fuel rail is common - and I think it has it's own regulator/pulse absorber gadget valve advance system is common, but I'd expect a code other than just misfire.
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how many miles on this engine? has it been properly maintained?
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my Amsoil severe gear was put in by the shop that rebuilt my trans after 2nd gear was destroyed.(seeemingly not a wear-related failure - the shop said, and showed me, that even the synchros looked good - just that the 5mt's 2 piece case is known to flex too much, usually 3rd gear gets it, sometimes 2nd) Before that, I had Extra-S in it. Before that, I had RL LW SP. This Amsoil is in between the Extra-S and the Redline in 'feel'. But, I haven't run it during the summer yet so, kinda early to say if I prefer the Redline over amsoil. The Redline was like butter. Might not be thin enough though for northerners ??? Extra-S felt very notchy/scrape-y in the summertime. many people like the Motul though, no question.