1 Lucky Texan

if the other axle's boots are in good condition and it isn't making noises, leave it in place. do more frequent inspections of it and regrease/reboot when a split boot is detected. (if you want a 'project', swapping it to the other side would put infrequently worn surfaces used only in reverse, into the forward use position and could extend the life of a few of the metallic components. while it's out, you could also reboot it as preventive maintenance.) MANY people will just replace axles as the labor and cost is close to the same as rebooting but, finding quality replacements is not easy - do a search, everyone has issues along these lines. if MWE/FWE is still in business, they enjoy a good reputation for having quality rebuilt Subaru axles. Some folks have had good luck with aftermarket new axles; Raxles, EMPI, SureTrak and others - still, you can find complaints. as said, we all seem to gamble when we stray from the OEM axles. It's my understanding that the Subaru rebuilts are rebuilt for them by Cardone. If the there is no or limited grinding such that the case hardening of wear surfaces isn't compromised, they should be decent parts. I know it seems like a crazy issue,...... because it is. If we could just find a way to get NTN axles at discount prices.....

does the car sit outside? I'm trying to recall but, recently it was dew-y in the morning (I'm in DFW area) so, I'm wondering if the plug wires or coil could have been moist, and the heat drove the moisture off after a few minutes. an 06 isn't terribly old, but it could need new plug wires I suppose. Also, any sign of oil on the plug boots when you swapped plugs? did the old plugs all look OK/the same? some time when it's idling smoothly, use a plant mister to spritz water on the wires and note any missing that occurs - fairly sure sign of bad wires.

if it's already clicking, don't reboot it. they will drive a long time before actual failure so, you have time (when they start clicking going straight , that's when you begin to worry, still, they will drive a long time) you have time to get a used subaru axle from LKQ or car-part, regrease and reboot it. maybe find Beck-Arnley boot kit at amazon. Or, gamble on aftermarket new or rebuilt. Or, save-up for new OEM ($$$$) I think I've seen Febest brand outer CV joints at amazon but, that would be another gamble. RockAuto could be another source....? harder to return something bad though. Some folks have gone to a large NAPA and looked thru the axles for the green cups - likely indicating a rebuilt Subaru axle. But, if the case hardening was ground away by the rebuilder, it could be as questionable as any rebuilt.

cool idea, I have at least one story I'm gonna send you.

^^^ coolant right? that's what I was wondering - valve dropped in or rod bearing cap failed - what caused it to 'seize' if that's what happened?

it may be that EZ threads are always on my radar but, you're right, seems 'more common' than H4 failures. prompts me to schedule a fluid change - maybe not this month, but I may do it in October.

GG - what is the issue with the pinion bearing? just the 'weak link' or is the design such it isn't well-lubricated or ?????

not helpful... . . . .but FUNNY!

did you position the ring gaps correctly? maybe there's excessive crankcase pressure now? leave the oil filler cap off and check for strong pulses? I dunno much about these engines internally. very few folks seem to get past the heads. anyway, at least consider an engine from a wreck - it was probably running well before the wreck right? - put a timing kit on it and run it in the car while you go thru your present engine as a project.

car?

as said, we've seen these symptoms often and it's as close to a guarantee as you'll get for free from the internet, that you have a bad HG causing an internal leak from a combustion chamber where pressures are extremely high into a coolant passage where pressure is only 17psi or w'ever. there are 'block' tests or HG tests available that use a fluid which turns from blue to green/yellow that will sometimes show combustion gasses in the coolant. You might also be able to send a coolant sample to Blackstone or similar labs for testing. you can find youtube videos of the chemical block test.

dropped the Outback off for pass airbag replacement - they said it's a 3 hour job. Got a Forester for a loaner. Lots of unfamiliar electronics in the car. Kinda disappointed that there's wind/road noise at the level there is, we have some moderate and gusty winds out of the north today, seemed to push the car around slightly - maybe adding to the wind noise. Expansion joints in a nearby road are transmitted thru somewhat harshly. Almost as bad as when I tried polyurethane bushings on the Outback's lower control arms. tight steering seems nice, peppy drivetrain doesn't really sound or behave 'weird' at all to me. kinda bouncy/busy ride, maybe a little more body roll than I expected - but only 850 miles on the unit, might settle-in a little more? Sight-lines kinda busy too with the little triangle at the front of the windows and rear seat headrests, rearview mirror seems oddly shaped for the actual view available? - all that would probably be easily accommodated after a week or 2. Just 'unfamiliar car' type stuff I guess. nitpicking I guess but, really, was expecting a car that feels more 'advanced' than the 03 Outback.

yeah, our 03 had a very loose-fitting dipstick for a long time. I may need to check my replacement again.

yeah, if fluid was pushed into and perhaps overflowed out of the overflow tank - most likely a headgasket problem.

OK, here's a subtle test. If you ere to disable the ignition and crank the engine over - would it sound typical ; Rarr, Rarr,Rarr,Rarr,Rarr, etc, OR, more like Rarr,Rarr,Rarr,REER,Rarr,Rarr,Rarr,REER? that would indicate low/no compression in one cylinder - possibly a burned valve? anyway, compression test should find that as well.

^^^^ what he said - kinda suspicious of ring land or other failure when running, take the oil filler cap off, if there's a lot of pulses coming out, maybe ring problem? pcv valve at least seems to need cleaning/changing but.....? just wild guesses.

so, do you still have the original; starter? - it's solenoid can be rebuilt - new contacs and maybe plunger are cheap for Denso starter - amazon,ebay have parts. or, maybe move the solenoid or its internal parts over to the old starter for testing? also, many parts stores can bench test a starter. if it spins, maybe get a wrench on the crank puleey and confirm the engine isn't seized? battery cables can have a lot of 'hidden' corrosion. it wicks under the insulation over time. the 'smack it with a hammer' trick can work well, but hit a modern starter too hard and the magnets could crack I guess?

does the starter have any kind of warrranty? Rebuilt parts do not have a great reputation - sometimes you go thru 3-4. Sometimes you get a good one first time.

if you swap tires around - any change? Rims OK and straight? if the car were on 4 jack stands and run, would it still vibrate? just thinking this 'might' help point towards bushings/axles/brakes - vs, engine transmission drive shaft. because some components would still receive 'close' to typical stress, while others are spinning mostly stress-free. I know it's a longshot/oddball idea, but it is cheap to try

sometimes you have to take a service writer or tech for a ride to demo the problem. And when you pick the car up, do a test drive nearby so you can leave it if it isn't right.

user botenredwolf at subaruoutback.org is a car sound guru - sign up over there and message him.

dunno why it wouldn't be similar to this;

that kind of difference is not ideal - much worse too if the tires are not all the exact same model. Could be an indication of prior abuse. Subaru want the tires to be the same model and size and within 1/4" in circumference. if you do all the math, 2/32" is over that spec a little.

yeah, it's a balancing issue, don't want to severely limit the ability of someone going into business for themselves and end-up protecting big companies from competition, but , the consumers need to know that, a business can be 'found' and held liable for any issue with fraud that might come up. A guy here at work got busted for flipping too many cars too quickly. He's a really good guy and actually kept some cars from going to the junkyard while helping some relatives and friends get cheap transportation. As long as it's fairly easy to get 'registered' or w'ever - I'm OK with some regulation in this area.

if someone responds here, that info would be great, otherwise, for an iPhone, I would just read thru some reviews at amazon, if you scroll down on the screen, usually on the right side there's a search window for the reviews and you can specify Subaru, or iphone, etc. there ARE some reports of very cheap harbor freight and ebay units not linking with Subaru s, but I think most folks have good luck in general - just make sure you can return a problematic unit I guess?