1 Lucky Texan

user botenredwolf at subaruoutback.org is a car sound guru - sign up over there and message him.

dunno why it wouldn't be similar to this;

that kind of difference is not ideal - much worse too if the tires are not all the exact same model. Could be an indication of prior abuse. Subaru want the tires to be the same model and size and within 1/4" in circumference. if you do all the math, 2/32" is over that spec a little.

yeah, it's a balancing issue, don't want to severely limit the ability of someone going into business for themselves and end-up protecting big companies from competition, but , the consumers need to know that, a business can be 'found' and held liable for any issue with fraud that might come up. A guy here at work got busted for flipping too many cars too quickly. He's a really good guy and actually kept some cars from going to the junkyard while helping some relatives and friends get cheap transportation. As long as it's fairly easy to get 'registered' or w'ever - I'm OK with some regulation in this area.

if someone responds here, that info would be great, otherwise, for an iPhone, I would just read thru some reviews at amazon, if you scroll down on the screen, usually on the right side there's a search window for the reviews and you can specify Subaru, or iphone, etc. there ARE some reports of very cheap harbor freight and ebay units not linking with Subaru s, but I think most folks have good luck in general - just make sure you can return a problematic unit I guess?

after-cat sensor will throw a code. but has zero affect on a:f ratio. Other sensors are VERY important. did you use an oem style t'stat? also, a new rad caps, and a tiny clamp or a coupla small zipties on the little overflow hose at the nipple on the rad neck are good ideas. Also check for crud blocking the o'flow hose's end in the o'flow tank. I cut mine at a 45* angle. You can pull the o'flow tank and shake some ice cubes back and forth inside it to clean it out if required. Bad cap or blocked o'flow hose could lead to collapsed hoses from vacuum.

low usage is considered 'severe duty' - new fluids everywhere would be a good place to start. details on vehicle? also, if you have a smartphone, an ELM327 BT (less than 20-40 bucks) adapter and an app like Torque can get you reading your own codes +more.

aside from mentioning that EZ engines are much less common than EJ and are experiencing 'some' HG issues (not sure about HG 'rate' of failure) I otherwise agree with this. mmboys07, are you the original owner of the '14? did the '14 experience any overheating from a different issue that led to the HG failure?

I don't think everyone has had quite the same 'garbage' experience you have. But, I admit, I'm not happy my WRX needed a transmission rebuild at 65K miles. - however, if I had quit Honda when my first one dropped a valve in cyl 2, I wouldn't have had 19 years of reliable service from my second Honda (well, except for no a/c the last 10 years). My BIL thought I was insane for buying a second Honda. I knew it was a one-off event. easy to find people with anecdotal problems with any brand.

seems like a remote chance but, I didn't see carrier bearing on the list. is there any noise with the vibration? feel it in the steering wheel or 'seat of the pants'?

short answer is, they have a space for a cabin filter, but having it installed was an option. cars101.com will have instructions for cabin air filter.

could be as simple as a poorly re-connected wiring harness.

do not get cheap aftermarket, they are known to not work reliably on Subarus. OEM is best. NGK or Denso will probably be $25 to $50 on am,azon depending on what part number you need.

you might check crutchfield.com too.

GD - do those short blocks need the oil pump upgrade? any concern about his heads/cams being oil starved?

next time you feel it will fail to start - cycle the key from OFF to ON (not START) , several times(4-5-6 ?), wait 3-5 seconds at ON each time. then, try to start it. If it reliably starts better, somewhere you are losing fuel pressure - maybe tighten fuel line clamps.

could some kind of snow/ice build-up contribute to this happening? but, as said above, the initial problem was likely left-over from the bearing work.

clogged a/c drain ? maybe blocked cabin air filter? have you checked your coolant level? look in the radiator - don't only trust the line on the overflow tank. does the inside of the car smell sweet-ish, like toasted marshmallows? if so, heater core might be leaking.

while it's wamed-up an idling well, you could use a plant mister to spray water on/near each plug wire and see if it causes stumbling. Some folks say if you do that at night you can see arcing. seems like plug wires or coil. the moisture is driven-off after the engine bay warms up.

have you considered getting a key fob? probably get one from a forum member with a WTB listing in the classifieds ,or check ebay.

oil pressure sending until would be my first guess.

all 4 tires the same size,brand, and model? check the rear bushings on the front lower control arms too. will the car idle smoothly thru tight circles on dry pavement of does it jerk/buck?

^^^ what FF said dew/moisture on old plug wires can cause issues. Failed Engine temp Sensor could as well.

love my Lowes corded electric impact - wish I had one 40 years ago if only to buzz lug nuts off. Centric rotors are good value replacement discs. I also run Centric Posiquiet ceramic pads on our OB - most any name brand or NAPA Gold - type ceramic will serve as well as OEM. Go slow and take it easy. try to find a helper to run tools back and forth for you. get a stool or upturned 5 gal bucket to sit on. No need to rush it.

3 drain and fills are required to get about 85% fresh fluid because of how much is left in the torque converter. Unless you changed your fluid in a manner that got all of it out. some folks have had good results with a bottle of Trans-X for things like delayed engagement - but it won't fix a broken a transmission.