1 Lucky Texan

does it have a MAF? maybe tap around on it while idling - some soobs have intermittent MAFs. scan for codes after it happens. could be a 'pending' code that would be helpful.

can the #2 plugwire be swapped with another cyl? same for plug and injector. if the misfire doesn't move with any of those parts - compression and leak-down test next???

don't think CVT came until '12 but. check cars101.com

might be worth checking the wiring for rodent or other damage - otherwise what they said ^^^^^

isn't there a special type end wrench for those too? I bet it would approach form the side so, maybe clearance would'nt be bad? but, I think they can still be troublesome - maybe start spraying with penetrant now (PB Blaster, Kroil or 50:50 acetone and ATF) might need to try loosening it while it's warm too.

still kinda seems like either timing or a sticking/dropped/cracked valve. hoping someone else comes along with a good idea did this begin after fueling? I have recently seen bad fuel causing problems. interesting

subaru has sourced filters from multiple manufacturers in the past, so, probably not a problem. Should still be built to Subaru specs. (I do miss the Roki filters....)

Interesting, you might call them and ask. It probably is benign overall, but even a little unusual shifting can often be cleared-up with just fresh fluid. Did you complain about slow engagement or shifting problems? In older or negelcted cars, and additive like Trans-X can often help with poor shifting. You seem to have half the expected miles on your car - there is a TIME side on the maintenance schedule. If you continue to just put 5-6K miles on per year, use the time side of the schedule. That 30K service should probably have been done in 2013 or 2014.

if you have a smartphone, investigate Torque and other apps that use an ELM327 BT adapter.

Subaru has been making turbocharged vehicles for - what? - 30 years or more? problem is, you're shopping used and the turbo adds another expensive and risky item into the formula (along with the engine and transmission) for finding a 'good' used car. probably finding an experienced shop that could do a prepurchase inspection would be worthwhile - I think a tech can drop the pipe and at least check the turbo shaft for play. Any tubo car that has been abused (poor maintenance or lead-foot behavior) will be more risky than an NA. If turbo parts are ingested by the engine - it's very costly to repair.

consider a turbo Forester? my one-owner 06 WRX has only had a major issue with the 5MT - so far. But I think a USED WRX would be the riskiest of all turbos, likely some kid has already reamed it out.

I don't think you can trust any part of that engine parts car or maybe throw in a new engine but, gotta wonder, what kind of maintenance was missed on the rest of the car?

nice offer

odd ok - crazy idea; any weird sounds when you rotate it CCW? kinda wondering if a broken/loose rod might act like a 'pawl' and lift up on one direction, but block the crank in the other direction? maybe confirm compression on the driver's side cylinders when turning backwards - is that even possible?

I have no knowledge of that, sorry I bet someone else with experience will respond. at 142,000 miles, I might consider a compatible lower-miles trans from a wreck before taking the pan off. But, a '91 may not be worth that effort/expense. fresh fluid helps with gummy deposits and may freshen seals and lubricate better. But, it takes 3 drain/fill/drive cycles to get about 855 new fluid, not just one drain/fill. and trans-X seems to help old seals work better.

I found the tooth count to be a good last-ditch check for correct timing, find the tooth count for that engine.

some folks like tha additive Trans-X for older trans with shifting problems.

CEL on? if so, post the codes here. you might try disconnecting the neg battery termin al for 'a while' (overnight might b e convenient) then, test the car after reconnecting. that should reset the TCU and, if you notice much better or much worse behavior - perhaps a trans problem is the culprit. did the dealer say WHY they suspect a valve body? some folks have done transmission fluid changes and experienced better trans performance - mostly with delayed engagement however. I THINK you cars has the 5EAT trans? if so, it need s the Subaru ATF-HP fluid.

I think it's used in motorhomes

saw this nice pdf about the CVT on "another Forum" www.atra.com/Webinars/Import/Subaru_Lineartronic_CVT_Introduction.pdf http://www.atra.com/Webinars/Import/Subaru_Lineartronic_CVT_Introduction.pdf (ugh - don't seem to be able to edit spelling error in thread title)

^^^ that would be a good idea. I suppose though, the kits are a 'moving target' with reports of some stuff that was made in the US or japan now being made elsewhere.

is the store very close? such that the car has not warmed up?

roughness at idle could be aftermarket front axles - annoying but benign. (if the engine feels smooth in P or N but rough stopped in drive, many people experience that with rebuilt axles. - a few people seem to think transmission mounts contribute to the problem) if it is still sluggish - chances are w'ever is causing that, may cause the P0420. bad knock sensors, vacuum leaks, old plugs, maybe clogged PCV and certainly exhaust leaks 'could' cause that code - in addition to wring problems, bad rear sensor or a bad cat conv. NEVER jump to the converter as the first thing to try - especially on a poor-running car. Fix the running/idling issue first. on a plug change - research that, double platinum NGK is what you want - vary from those at your own risk. NGK Iridium 'may' be OK. I found it easier to change them from under the car. look at the 'sticky' threads here; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/

take it to a different dealer?

if there's unswitched voltage going to the hatch, maybe chafed/shorting wires in the boot from body to hatch?