1 Lucky Texan

if you're always near 'home base' and/or can easily call for help, don't worry about. but fuel pump, alternator and maybe starter are some of the main things that might strand you. For some folks, it might be a good idea to get ahead of the problem. just be sure to research what you get as replacement - some folks have had bad luck with aftermarket parts or cheap rebuilt alternators, etc.

when the cam pulley is turned - are you sure the camshaft turns? just asking cause I have read of cracked pulleys - dunno if they'd turn or fall off though.... when it cranks - does the rhythm of the cranking sound even?

pressure test to make sure? - maybe a new rad cap? but, seems like the lower hose has been leaking.

find some switch cleaner, CRC or other brand and spray in there? not to familiar with Foresters - could some coffee or a milkshake have been spilled in there?

also at cars101 - begin about halfway down; http://www.cars101.com/subaru/tiresandwheels.html#outback

warranty work? if so, try another dealership. if not, ask in a new thread for a shop near you - maybe someone can direct you to a good brake mechanic. it would be nice to know if air is actually found in the system when they bleed it.

don't some folks run skinnier tires in the snow? steel rims should make it easier to do that. anyway - you guys have the experience at this, certainly not me.

I'm a flatlander in the south so, I dunno much other than what I read - I think part of it just cost, I think the design helps reduce vibration from ice build-up? maybe the salt on roads in some places corrodes the mag/aluminum alloys?

I think some TRibecas and maybe some STIs have 5x114 pattern. But yeah, Outback, Legacy ,sedan or wagon - swappable. I think some people prefer steel wheels for their winter tires - you might have a conversation with a Discount Tire shop about that.

cars101.com may have a copy of the schedule for your 99 Forry

curiously, that extended emissions warranty varies by State - worth checking into, but it didn't help me with secondary air cut valves on my WRX in TX. Would have though in CA. go figure

any CEL codes? maybe scan after the no-start. kinda seems like a fuel issue - perhaps the Engine Temp Sensor. (might be 2 temps sensors on your car, the 2 pin/wire unit would be the ETS. if you have a single sensor, it will have 3 wires) It is supposed to signal the ECU when temps are cold so the injectors can be opened more - like a choke on old carb systems. But, you said it runs well - does that include when it does start at cool temps? ever smell fuel in the engine bay? some Imprezas have had fuels leaks at cold temps - just loose clamps usually. Never read of that causing a no-start though....

hope they did good diagnosis if they are fighting P0420 - it can be a s simple as an exhaust leak. many times it isn't the cat.

even if it is LSD - it's a sealed viscous unit and the gear oil never mixes inside the unit. something like the 80w-90, or a 75w-90 would be fine. And in the rear diff, it can be synthetic or conventional. If the car was purchased with the Weather Package, it may have rear VLSD - not sure. (maybe someone here will know, or dig around at cars101.com) if you put the entire rear up in the air on jacks - spin one wheel in forward travel direction. If the driveshaft is free to spin and the other wheel moves in forward travel direction - you have LSD. Open diff; the other wheel will move in the opposite direction.

looks like, under some rare situation, you could fold-up the liner. Might take just the right sized clump of ice or mud ? you could swing by a collision center or 2 and ask if they could at least make sure the liner is still secure - they might not charge you if it only takes 2 minutes to check it - I suppose it 'could' cost $50-$100 if they actually find a problem. Check google reviews and/or yelp if you actually want to use a collision center. I'd be tempted to just drive the car. Deal with any problem when it becomes more obvious/annoying.

scan the ecu for a pending code. yes, on a 10 year old car, it could be an O2 sensor. But a little more diagnosis might save you some money if it's a vacuum leak or poor ground connection, or ??? 07 I believe are also DBW and there could possibly be an issue with the accelerator pedal.

.................snip................. and too much oil per the dipstick. That may be a red flag for some improper servicing. Have the front diff and transmission fluids checked for level and quality. It's easy for some folks to confuse themselves when draining and filling fluids on Subarus.

that would be a rare failure but, as you say, you could just take it back for the trans repair. I do wonder though - is there a chance the previous owner or the dealer put an incorrect final drive part on the car? Tires must also all match size/brand/model. (seems unlikely a Subaru dealer would overlook the obvious though, but, you just said 'dealer'......) note also - u-joints and perhaps the carrier bearing can also exhibit problems similar to TB.

what was the condition of the old pads? any sets with uneven wear? were caliper hoses changed?

^^^ true, best braking upgrade is to run stickier tires. But some folks don't want to trade-away treadlife for that. do you tow or run with max load in the car? race or bomb down mountain roads? those 'could' be issues requiring a fresh look at braking gear.

I think there was some transition to built-in igniters around this year. Some info says it's built into the coil, other says the module is on the firewall. maybe some infor in this thread will help; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/43911-99-legacy-wont-start-no-spark.html

any oil on the plug wire boots? can you swap wires around to see if the problem folllows that wire?

I may not be able to help much with the ID issue, but I'm jumping in to suggest you keep the rotors if possible. If they are in OK condition and above the minimum thickness stamped on them, keep them. Of course, if they are untrustworthy slabs of rust, that's a different issue. Subaru OEM rotors are fine quality.

sure you used the right timing mark - the dash on the tab at the back of the crank sprocket? not the triangle?

scan for trouble codes?