1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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clutch all looks OK, they can feel a problem when the they spin the trans shaft - they are gonna open it up as it's 'possible' a repair could be cheaper than a full trans replacement. great -
do a search for 'frankenmotor' for some answers. I have no experience building one, but it's been discussed and you should find some info.
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it would be disappointing but, yeah, possible wheelbearing again if you say the symptoms are the same. I wouldn't 'rule out' something different - brake issues can sometimes do this, axles...etc. There have been 1 or 2 instance I've read of where a knuckle seemed to be the problem and a new or used one seemed to solve the bearings going bad. Or, if they had some new kid working the press or w'ever equipment they use, the procedure may have been botched and put stress on the new part.....? If you feel there's an issue with the dealership, you can get SOA involved but, sometimes it's just bad luck.
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got it to the shop, LOTS of soobs around!, nice guy Collin, we talked a little about my car . He said there's a divot inside where chunks of 3rd gear might collect without necessarily making it down to the magnet. called an hour after I got home, had a chance just to test drive the car, said it could be some odd clutch problem so, maybe tomorrow or saturday I'll no more. Talked about 2-3 other things while the car's there, but, need to focus on this clattering problem.
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^^^ what they said, minimal battery drain - for LONG storage, I guess just pull the neg batt. terminal to stop all dark current. But for a week or 2, maybe a month - leave it. you can get fobs from ebay. I forget, but one type of flashing is 'valet' mode.
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I'm no expert but, anyplace that sells recovery straps rated for pickup trucks 'should' have gear that will work. be careful - but remember you're towing it, not trying to lift it onto a container ship. Steering and braking are bigger concerns than getting it rolling I think.
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doesn't seem axle related at all, they aren't moving - even at the inner 'cups' and putting pressure on them /rolling wheels forward or back does not th cahnge the noise. at idle, there's a coupla clunks every 7-8 seconds or so - I can count 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10,clunk,clunk repeat. very much rear of the engine bay, no sound clutch pedal depressed. considering flat bed tow up to AWD Tuning in Flower Mound.
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yeah, I got it chocked so, I think I'll go try it with F wheels up
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I can turn on front wheel about an inch at the thread before all the slack is taken up. not sure, but that 'seems' a little excessive. I can grab the inner joint and juke it back and forth and up and down and, actually, the side (right) with the intact boot seems loose, looser than the side (L) with the torn boot. The R side axle was installed by a collision center so, not sure what brand it is. inner cup not green - looks bead-blasted, but it has those - 'scallops or troughs' and the boot on it has those extra semicircular rubber 'lobes' to 'reach in' and seal those troughs.
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I did spin the wheel, the other side spun - no noise, but I didn't look underneath or try hard to juke it CW/CCW/CW , etc. gonna go try that now I think
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I was wondering about that...was afraid to ask if that's possible in N. hmmm, I only have 2 jack stands - think it would be safe to idle the car front up, rear down to look at the axle? (in Neutral of course) I 'could' use the floor jack to lift the rear - rather not.
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oh, dang, posted OT in the thread, sorry. good to know about the driver's sides being OK. If parts don't arrive for airbags before xmas, I may get the rental.
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felt around iside the drain, didn't feel like I touched or moved any pieces, fingers cam out oily.... stuck a neodymium magnet on some pliers, ran it around the bottom of the drain pan. Got one more 'eyelaslh' piece. Honestly, they look like they could have been part of the plating on the drainplug threads. Very little 'sludge' on the magnet and just 4-5 *tiny* slivers.
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maybe inconclusive? I will try to get pics but, not seeing anything on the magnet bigger than an eyelash in total mass? long/skinny copper-ish peices? going to scrape it off on some paper - maybe pics later. dang - I thought I'd find chunks. regardless - now looks like a tow somewhere, not sure where? I have no indie soob shop very close.....
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Airbag - suppose you DO have a passenger? I guess they are parking the their cars and driving the Subaru-funded rentals. My wife's car has a passenger much of the time - they 'could' be told to get in the back seat....but we will have 4-5 people in it at Xmas time. I suppose 'soccer moms' that have the car loaded, or big families need it? And, are there no cars with driver airbags that have problems? I have no real details, just what they said.
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gonna try to get the car in the garage - if the trans is toast, another 30 feet of damage won't matter since I already drove it 1/2 mile. - need to get it level so I can jack it. pulling trans oil plug next I think. If the input shaft bearing grenades - do pieces go into the trans?
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the noise would be identical to this guy's noise I think (I assume the car is idling in neutral);
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I do see a lot of grease at the LS axle's inner joint. I was excited, at first. Checked engine oil, not empty and no odd particles. acc belts look good. Decide to idle it as I'm thinking I will probably need to get it in my garage. Starts fine, no sound. Start removing foot from clutch pedal - rattling. Confirmed, in neutral, rattling when clutch engaged, stops when pedal depressed. It's on-off right at the clutch 'engagement point'. so, I'm thinking a clutch disc issue or input shaft bearing???? it doesn't whine, it clatters/rattles. Should I look for chunks on the trans magnet next? I have no experience wrenching into the whole engine/clutch/trans area - could this be one of those clutch springs inside there? car has 63K miles. It gets 95% surface road use so, clutch is probably close to 'done' anyway (though I havn't had any noticeable slipping.) sounds bad when I'm driving - dunno if I could/should drive it to a shop.
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I like what you're saying, but this is a bad noise. Concerned it sounds worse under load and that's why it's loud when rolling. Getting light now, time to check fluids and look around for something obvious with axles. It's parked in my stupid sloping driveway - wish I had thought to pull my wife's car outta the garage and park it in there....sigh ...not thinking well after it happened I guess. Not gonna move it till I check some stuff.
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something happened about 1/2 mile from home this morning, immediately after a 'gentle' u-turn. Now there's a 'clattering' noise - seems kinda rhythmic as I went home at slow speed in 2nd gear.and related to road speed, not rpm No overheat, I don't 'think' there's loss of power.... too dark to look at anything yet. Hoping for axle problem, fearing transmission or, ....engine. The rhythmic part gets me - concerned it's valve train related.
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some folks have weak timing belt tensioners make a noise 'similar' to piston slap and rod bearing failure. There are even 3-4 youtube videos about tensioner noise.
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If I go for the rental thing, I'm keeping my cars at my house.
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if intake filter was changed recently - the tabs at the bottom of the box sometimes don't get seated and there can be a noise from that.(not positive that car is made the same way)
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if you have another car, hook up the vac gauge, start it, have a helper carefully block the exhaust with a length of wood ,push with a foot if needed, w'ever, to see what the gauge does? based on this, I thinkthe numbers you have DO indicate a possible problem - vacuum leak or blocked exhaust ? wonder if spraying some carb cleaner or starter fluid around the vacuum lines and intake manifold might show a vacuum leak? Dropping the exhaust might be best as suggested above.
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with the throttle open, vacuum will be less so, not sure that you're seeing a problem. I think the youtube video i watched showed the vacuum gradually reducing as pressure built-up in the exhaust, if THAT is your observation - could be a restriction. Knock sensor and IACV might be areas to investigate. EDIT; video below sems to suggest your vac numbers ARE too 'low'.(higher pressure than ideal)
