1 Lucky Texan

intended primarily to use with 'donut' spare tire use.

look around at www.opposedforces.com for illustration of the system - you may need to get a window 'regulator' and maybe motor from a wreck.

possibly worn inner tie rods, uneven pad deposits on rotors, maybe some other brake issue (sticking caliper or ????) are you running good tires?

^^^ that you need experienced hands to drive the car and push-pull on the suspension, steering and drivetrain parts. you could open a new thread asking for a shop recommendation near your city - someone may know a soob-experienced mechanic.

is the car manual or auto? if auto, use the FWD fuse and monitor for any change. if manual - do you notice it only happens after the car has warmed-up?

maybe someone knocked the nub off, then returned them for refund - and you got them as new? do you recall anything unusual about the packaging? Once, I bought some wiper blades that were supposed to have been new, but they had used blades in the package! I also know someone who (years ago) bought used oil - new off the shelf at a walmart! (I always inspect the ring or inner seals now when I buy fluids)

fairtax mentioned the rear bushing for the lower control arm - I also think it needs inspection. also, could someone pace the car, each of you have passeneger/observers on cellphones so the pace car could know when to circle your car when the vibration happens? maybe they could spot some wheel hop or other visible problem. just to be clear, this is a repetitive noise that seems to begin above 60 but varies with speed? do you also feel vibration? seat of the pants, or in the steering wheel? any 'jerkiness'/bucking in the car?

but isn't 2 the 'buddy' of cyl 1 ?

assuming all sensors are working normally, the ECU can adapt to changes in fuel in a coupla drive cycles.

were the plugs gapped before installation? very easy to damage the little iridium 'nub'. NGKs come pre-gapped and any use of a gapping tool 'could' have damaged those 2 plugs.

meh - inspection should include the tires so...it's all good.

I'm not sure lye would be safe on aluminum - maybe heavy castings would be OK, not sure about sealing surfaces. They may etch.

Hmmm - I don't think the binding would go away if the discs were hung-up on a grooved 'basket'. has the trans or rear diff been swapped on this car? any cel codes? pending codes?

oh, gotcha make sure to get the 'real' OEM style filter - it isn't built the same as an engine oil filter.

I always check Amazon and RockAuto, there may be slightly cheaper sources, but probably none with better reputations for customer service.

was there a change to exhaust routing that created interference?

my 2003 doesn't have it - it has a 'remote location' behind the fog light. Dunno about an '08, but maybe it's somewhere else? most people say it's a 'life of the car' item. I wouldn't change mine unless I opened the case of the trans or maybe if incorrect fluid had been put in my trans.

you could dig around at www.opposedforces.com , but maybe someone else will reply with experience on this.

I think at one point on my car, I had to use my scissor-jack to push the control arm down? I THINK - it's been a while. maybe read here; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/16297-rear-shock-replacement-2000-outback-wagon.html http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/146578-trying-to-get-a-rear-strut-back-into-my-subaru-legacy-1999/

hmmm - inner tie rods may be very worn - I could see them worn enough to possibly clunk, just not repetitively with tire rotation. But, they would directly affect toe. On a 99, many suspension/steering parts could be worn. rear bushing for lower control arm, strut bearings, sway bar mounts/links. maybe take your mechanic for a test ride and demo the problem for him?

swap tires front-to-back and see if the symptom changes.

lines to the cooler in the radiator? - thise might not be pricey to replace. Still, kinda wonder how much of the remaining lifespan of the trans was sacrificed when it lost the fluid.

spline count , compressed free-length, and tone ring if applicable would be the 3 main factors.

try a new thread asking for help with a swapped engine - might get someone with experience to reply.

I'm not sure - I know 'limp mode' on the turbos cut the boost. maybe it limits rpm on the na models? VSS will cause problems but, seems like you already have this bypassed? guesswork again. can you scan the ecu for pending codes?