1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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I'd try using a propane torch to warm-up the bolts, then spray them with a penetrant (Kroil, PB Blaster or even home-made ATF/Acetone 50:50 - careful not to catch fire!) When the bolt cools from the spray - maybe some liquid will be pulled in. Then, if you have no luck budging the bolt, try tightening slightly first, then re-try removal. but, I really don't see how Blue Devil can work from the coolant side of this type of HG leak. -
someone did that for a reason so, be prepared to troubleshoot the system and repair properly.
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That might be a good start , I don't know if the factory service manual might have some tests in it you could perform. It may, you can usually find FSMs on-line if you search around.
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take the knuckle and new bearings to an auto machine shop and have them remove the old and press in the new bearings. No HBAs until about model year 06 I think. so many things 'could' cause front end shake; check inner tie rods for certain. Sometimes sticking calipers can drag. move tires front-to-back see if it's a bad tire. all 4 tires MUST be the same model and close in wear-level or AWD/drivetrain problems can occur. search here for questions about specific systems on the car - lots of threads on common questions. RockAuto, Amazon, and online dealers like subarugenuineparts.com or fredbeansparts.com and others are good sources for parts.
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hmmm...try locking and unlocking the car with the fob. also, try 'popping' the brake pedal - quick step-on/step-off - a coupla times.
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^^ yeah, just some experiments lol! just unplug that coil and toss it into the spares box! also, what if you twist the rad cap to the safety position? Run with no system pressure? would it push less coolant out IN TOTAL if the gasses can bubble out of the rad neck? It would be a mess, but coolant may 'linger' longer in the circulation circuit. Especially after you got an inch or 2 of space at the top the radiator. of course, there'd be no vacuum to pull any in from the overflow either - but constantly refilling 'some' amount of coolant is gonna be necessary either way..... FOR SCIENCE !!!
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well, that sounds legit - wonder if the actuators are interchangeable, see if the code follows after swapping them?
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vacuum gauge might be helpful here. does run OK when cold? maybe engine temp sensor is bad - choking a hot engine?
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oil pressure sender may need to be inspected too.
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clear the code and see how quickly it returns.
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how about trying one of those miracle repairs? Blue something or maybe there's others? I suppose it would have to be put in the bad cylinder and 'pushed' into the cooling jacket somehow? Or, unplug the injector and take the plug out! 5 cylinder boxer!
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any fluid around the ABS pump? does this car have a hill holder? something with that?
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260K is not a bad run.
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check CCR in Colorado for short block. sometimes, weak TB tensioner can let the belt sound like rod knock.
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might be a stuck blend door - I think hot coolant goes thru all the time? (not sure on older cars) and it's just modulated/blocked by a flap.
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^^^ gotcha - thanx for your experienced comments. I picked up some of the self-sealing silicone tape and watched a video on the permatex product that is similar. her car isn't quite the pos that I have driven for myself decades ago - but it is no spring chicken either. And Texas heat is tough even on low miles items made with grease or rubber. The car has done this trip and others before, but soon I think it will be better to rent a car.
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sometimes, getting the nose of the car up helps purge air.
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I haven't pulled the undercover but her car has an oil drip - likely from vc gaskets which are original. I will probably combine new hoses with that work - maybe in October. no way I will find time to swap any hoses before we leave for Colorado. Hoping the lower miles will make up a little for the age. would you guys do every single hose, just rad, rad + heater ? arent here some on top of the engine? I'll research all that later I guess.
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yeah, I got one of those 24mm sockets. good tricks on the other suggestions.
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try starting in neutral. brake pedal I think also has a switch that might lock-out starting - pop the pedal a coupla times. scan for pending codes.
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OK - definitely try holding the pedal to the floor next time you think it won't start normally. when the ECU thinks the engine is cold - like from the temp sensor that is dangling in the air right now instead of bathed in warm/hot coolant - it 'chokes' the car. If you you run it only for a short time, too much fuel could build-up and 'flood' the cylinders on an immediate re-try. but waiting a few hours or overnight may allow enough gas to migrate into the crankcase and/or evaporate to allow a normal start. you might consider an oil change after this gets sorted.
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look in the fuse box under the hood, make certain there is NO fuse in the FWD slot. make sure all 4 tires are the same model and wear-level make certain you see the CEL 'tested' just before you go from ON to start. drive the car in tight circles on dry hard pavement - it should idle, or maybe just above idle - thru the turns with no jerking/bucking. check the sticky threads here for the most common issues; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/
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I understand there is risk - just tryoing to get some data points on quantifying it. heading to CoSpgs this weekend - hoses are 13 years old, but only 80K miles. is there a decent little kit to take in the car that might repair a pinhole leak or ? something I could grab at O'Reilly ?
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crank position sensor can be intermittent with temp. Many old soobs have run with holes in the filler neck - just throws a p0440 or w'ever code. how hot is it getting though with no radiator hooked up? when it fails to start - will squirting starter fluid or brak cleaner into the intake make it fire? maybe it's a fuel problem. also, try starting with the gas pedal held to the floor - that is the clear flood procedure for flooded engine.
