1 Lucky Texan

that lack of additional codes may be another symptom of 'limp mode' but it's just a guess on my part. most 95s were already OBDII I think. even though it wasn't required until 96.

folks swap in transmissions often. just confirm the final rive ratio is the same as stock. (must match FD of rear diff) LKQ and car-part.com are some comon sources

well, I CERTAINLY am no expert. maybe some ECUs are fine because they revert to a base map that is 'close enough' ? hopefully, someone will chime in with 'swap' experience. If not, try checking at NASIOC.

yeah - MAP sensor is gonna be critical. either the car is in 'limp mode' without it - or the A:F ratio is too far out to run.

maybe several small issues - all working against you. oil may be diluted with fuel - so, it runs off the rings quickly. what weight oil are you using? have you tried a heavier grade or one of the high mileage oils? I suppose, to help prove the problem is the rings, you could pull the spark plugs and find some way to spray oil into each cylinder after it has sat long enough to exhibit the problem. Then see if it behave the same way.

i'd check timing - probably OK. if no fire with ether, could be a no spark issue - especially if the car turns over with what 'seems' like normal compression (this "Rrrr,Rrrr,Rrrr,Rrrr" repeated. and NOT either ; "rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr" fast, nor, "Rrrr,Rrrr,reeer,Rrrr" with one fast like a dead/low comp. cylinder so, basically severely messed-up timing or , no spark. I suppose an intermittent, now bad, Crank Position Sensor is possible.....

seems unlikely the system could pull enough timing to cause as severe a problem as you have - but, changing the knock sensor is cheap and easy - may relate to the prev. problem of pinging. scan again for codes - might be a more-useful 'pending' code. try a squirt of starting fluid or brake cleaner to see if it fires. 'dropped' valve guide might cause a severe but intermittent problem - they can shift back and forth...vacuum test might spot that.

meh - if you used the recommended NGK plugs, they actually warn against using anti-seize. I wouldn't pull them. crush washer already crushed and the more you handle them, the more likely to bend an electrode or crack porcelain.

maybe some size 12-pt socket of appropriate size - that is, slightly too small to drop over the plug, could have the 12 'points'/'lobes' filed/ground to create an 'entry' or ramp - on each lobe. Them, hammer it onto the plug. Might grip well enough to extract the plug. This is similar to how thieves defeat security lug nuts.

I THINK (not certain on this engine) they are 'shoulder bolts' and not 'typical' at all.

lots of info here; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/43428-diy-c-air-conditioning-leak-refrigerant-repair-5-less-15-minutes-less.html easiest is often as said above, (if repairs have been made and the systems is empty) put in the volume the system requires.

doesn't have one. In the US, I don't think any soob had one before 2000 or 01 or so.

"It's more fun to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow."

good posts timing belt system is a priority. another sensor worth investigating is the knock sensor - but symptom more closely matches engine temp sensor.

My wife wants a new (well, different) car badly. But I really doubt I will be able to let her Outback go. So, kinda wondering about having 3 cars myself.

there's also this; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/297977-another-wind-noise-solution-cheap-easy.html

did it smell like toasted marshmallows or like oil? any fluids low? any chance the smoke was drifting up from lower dow, near the exhaust?

I had a similar issue with my WRX, almost 9 years old, but under 60k miles. I changed all the pulleys , kept the waterpump, kept the cam and crank seals. Ebay kit from, I think , mizumoauto. (may have been theautoexperts ? - I looked at several sources). I got a mitsuboshi belt in my kit. I would trust gates as well. glad I did it. my toothed idler was very loose and wobbled a little. another pulley was very loose.

does a 94 in this market have a knock sensor? could be cracked/bad.

I have read several posts of people having to replace leaking lines that run over the gas tank. I think the use the old line to pull the cupronickel (?) replacements through?

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/41182-symptoms-fuel-pump-o-ring-problem.html

check voltage too - ABS seems most sensitive to charging/battery problems on some older cars.

yeah, possible cap/o=ring problem

I re-read the thread - does it seem to only happen after the car warms up? wotdsm mentioned the coolant temp sensor (might be one 3 wire device onyour cat, if not, it's the 2 wire one, not the single wire temp gauge sender. anothet thought, hook a vacuum gauge up and see what it does before and after the problem exhibits itself. Maybe a valve is sticking or ....?

I have definitely seen ground wires on my intake mani.