1 Lucky Texan

Techron is widely regarded as a decent fuel system additive. Other than that, replacement of the injectors is probably the most practical next step. I know there are ways to send them out for cleaning/testing. But, for the hassle and expense, why not just put new ones in? consider puling the covers and inspecting the timing, it isn't all that hard and doesn't cost a nickel to look and confirm. If the tank still has bad gas, consider another fuel filter change in the near future when decent gas has pushed the old stuff out. Or run the pump with jumpers or otherwise drain/pump the old stuff out. HEET or similar product might help with moisture in the fuel.

yeah, now that Extra-S is in liter bottles - hard to say no to it. If it seems to cause problems, then maybe investigate something else. The Motul 300 suggestion I think is good too. It seems to have a lot of fans. I do NOT feel scotty's cocktail is harmful to a transmission (someone posted over there recently that the inside of a trans running it looked pristine) BUT, remember that scotty is in Houston. So, I think it is wise to question how it might perform in extreme cold. Many people expect his cocktail to repair a broken trans and when they subsequently crater their trans, they blame the fluid. The idea with it is to help with some synchro clashing. It can't repair something broken or abused. No fluid can.

fine for the rear diff, but some people report problems with using synthetic in the trans. If you do to, switch to a non-synthetic and see if it gets better. The synchros spin too fast with synth. Even Subaru's Extra-S isn't synthetic. huge thread at http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=920674 you could search thru it for people reporting results using Mobil 1, Redline, Royal Purple or w'ever lube you can think of.

hopefully, one of the regular wrenchers here will have parts laying around.

well there's your problem. lol! OK, I get it. you run a lot of power? might need dogtooth 1st and 2nd! even if you can't find a cheaper trans - if the car is otherwise in decent condition and still meets your personal needs/desire - fix it. Some people have payments on new cars that hit $1000 in - what ? - 3 months?, 2-1/2 months? If it was $1K across a bunch of different rusty/worn-out/bunt-out parts, might be time to dump the car - but the next transmission is 'unlikely' to crater on you so, car might rock along with typical maintenance and minor repairs for the next 100,000 miles. But, I could understand being hesitant to drop major geeters on it if the car is a POS (or close to it)

^^^ oh, yeah, even when an old thread is bumped, it can still have good info added that might help someone else in a future search. no big deal, I've done it (bumped an old thread - not looking at the date)

what symptoms do you have with the present trans?

5spd or auto? check LKQ and car-part.com , and maybe craigslist for someone parting-out a junker.

there is some good indications they are Akebono Ceramics (good stuff), but there's the possibility supplier and specs have been different thru the the years and across models. most name-brand ceramic or semi-metallic would serve well for replacement if you find the dealer too expensive.. People of course have favorites, I like Centric Posi-Quiet Ceramic on our OBW.

uh - thread is from 2008

if you haven't, change the o-rings at the suction and discharge hoses on the compressor - they almost turn to plastic with heat and age. had to do that on my wife's 03 OBW.

any other electrical issues? any work done to the car before this began? have you checked the alternator voltage?

there's a lot of force on those - sure that's where the sound comes from? maybe you could wrap them with some thin foam or bubble wrap or ????, check the clearance, then close the hatch and drive - see if there's any difference?

has the timing belt system been serviced in the life of the car? could have slipped a tooth. knock sensors will affect performance. it's worth scanning the system for pending codes - post any numbers found here - like P0303 or w;ever (Pxyz)

glad you found it! I haven't wrenched deep enough to deal with the modern sealants, but I have read enough to know it is possible to use too much.

94 have a crank pos. sensor? some older soobs had intermittent CPSes.

checking fluid level while idling right? 2 different trans did this? did you swap old front diff onto the replacement trans?

seems more like a possible TPS problem.

yeah, I think the extended period of high vacuum just puts more than a normal amount of oil vapor in the PCV system so, the above are good suggestions. could be some slightly stuck oil control rings on the pistons, weak PCV valve, etc. or just worn parts letting extra oil past. maybe experiment switching to a high mileage oil or heavier viscosity?

year, model? maybe post a pic or better description of the location of the item. most people would just use the drain at the bottom corner of the radiator.

is the belt 9 years old? maybe it's glazed and slipping. any 'jerkiness' in the steering wheel when the PS is failing? that could be air as said above. Look in the reservoir while idling.

the CEL should be tested before start - when the key is at ON and the other lights are tested. does it illuminate then? could be a prev owner disabled that light or it has burned-out.

I've read you must be very careful tightening the VC bolts back down, easily twisted off. definitely get the double platinum NGK plugs - don't even think about another brand. if the clips holding the coil connectors break, some folks have just used small zipties to retain them. consider a new PCV valve too.

I think he replaced the rotors. one possible point of confusion, you adjust the star wheel UP to tighten the adjustment on both sides. seems weird but, there's even an arrow embossed onn the brake shield back there.

hmmm...starter was changed (probably cables inspected but...?) so, yeah, some security 'feature' is suspect. maybe the switch on the brake pedal?