1 Lucky Texan

it's cheap if you DIY, might help diagnose - swap axles side-to-side. See if the sound changes - moves to the other side or gets better or worse....? also, sometimes failing wheel bearings will get hotter than their mate on the other side - use infrared remote therm after a highway run. more than - um, maybe consistently 20-30 + degrees difference after several tests I'd guess would be suspect? lift each corner - try to 'rock' wheel up-down - 12 oclock to 6 oclock. any movement is suspect wheel bearing. Compare sides. I had a rear bearing bad in my WRX - moved about 2-3mm. other side was solid. did you do the oil change yourself?

any recent service done? Not unheard-of for the diff to get incorrect fluid put in.

DIY or independent mechanic are both reasonable, and cheaper, options for replacing a starter. you can find some on-line procedures for DIY re-lubrication of the starter but, I have yet to try that myself. an intermediate option 'might' be, to pull the starter and have a local rebuilder re-furb it for you. Probably too inconvenient for many of us.

kinda feels like the oil seal at the turbo are gone - major source to foul the plugs. (were all 4 plugs in a similar condition?) maybe look for excessive oil in the intercooler. (one or 2 drops might be normal - minimal is best) the PCV system on boosted cars is odd and I suppose there 'could' be some kind of PCV valve problem leading to too much oil going in the intake. dropping the downtube I think can allow you to check for turbo shaft play too - might need a good shop/dealer for that inspection.

different problem than the first. almost certainly the same problem many of us are having with the planetary Mitsubishi starters. My 06 makes that scratching/rattling noise reliably if temps are under 45-50* or so, rarely above 55* or so. if you want them to experience it, leave it with them overnight but keep the keys, then drive over there in a loaner/different car, get a tech in the car and start it.

there are drive shaft shops too - not common, but there could be a shop in Toronto that could refurb your drive shaft or source one for you. EDIT - here's one; http://www.patsdriveline.com/index.php/products/driveshafts.html

car-part.com or LKQ would probably know what's compatible.

make sure the inner joint's spline is fully popped into the differential. get the CEL code read and post it here - might still be stored in the ECU.

I have never used them but, for temporary use, you could try; http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009JC42JU?keywords=coil%20sumosprings%20subaru&qid=1452522153&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

man! what a beast - ultimate sleeper, folks won't know what you got until the boost hits! power/weight ratio must be nuts. kinda surprised stock fuel pump can keep up - hope you're not leaning-out at high boost. you should consider a brake upgrade lol!

well, there seem to be several videos at youtube that would be helpful to some degree. hopefully, someone will respond that has done a replacement.

what is the symptom? MANY people have fixed their PS pumps with one or 2 o-rings and 1/2 hour of time. That's how I fixed my 06 WRX and our 03 Outback.

dang - you , like, resurrected a dead car ! good work

needs timing belt service.

What were you driving or what are you driving now? How old is the offspring? not sure, but the Tribeca with the 6cyl 'may' also need premium fuel.

any codes stored? how many miles? has maintenance been kept up?

buying a used car is always risky - risk goes up by a factor of ten if that car is a fairly inexpensive sports car. Those have often already been mistreated by 'kids'. yes, there can be exceptions (I'm probably one - how many 61 year-olds drive WRXs ?) but, the risk is real. honestly, parting it out or just getting away from it some how may be your best move. You might also consider donating it to a vocational school or even a 'cars for Kids' or similar charity and take a tax deduction.

first - suprised the dealer didn't find a stored code. In a new thread, ask for a mech recommendation near your city. Someone may know of a good independent shop. when was the timing belt system last serviced? A skipped tooth can make a car run poorly. Other tune-up services in good shape? original plug wires could be a problem when moist with condensation/dew too. Or oil leaks into the plug tubes....

get another opinion - post your city in a new thread asking for a shop recommendation. maybe there's a cracked ring land and the heads are OK? you need precise info to decide how to proceed. If you still like the car and it meets your needs - fix it and drive it until the wheels fall-off. If you're ready for a new ride - consider parting yours out or sell it to someone for a project. basically, either bail-out, or buck-up.

triple check breather hose routing? triple check cam timing? measure oil pressure? does kinda seem like an intake valve problem - too tight? dropped guide? just wild guessing

live data. Get a laptop and tactrix cable and you can log boost, avcs percent, throttle position, etc. there MAY be a way to get a similar set of data with an elm327 BT adapter and a smartphone. here's an older video of the process;

any codes stored? you may need to find a performance shop with a dyno or try to get some live data during a failure. boost, AVCS issues would be suspect I think.

spray some carb cleaner in the intake to see if it even fires. sometimes crank position sensors fail.

if original - your struts are certainly quite worn. not sure on other stuff - rack bushings could tighten the steering....? look for Febest bushings at Amazon if you replace the rear bushings on the front LCAs. maybe the little parking brake shoes in the rear rotors ? inspect them at least.

wonder how long it sat? how old the timing belt and rollers are? you might consider inspecting for slipped timing, and dropping the exhaust to look for 'dropped' valve guides.