1 Lucky Texan

coin toss but - I'd be tempted to find an engine from a wreck (might have half the miles and no overheat events, still would need gaskets and TB though) to rebuild - or drop a 2.2 in the car.

I'd want to inspect the fuel pump's cap and o-ring could be anything that throws-off OR confuse the ECU about A:F ratio. MAP, front o2 sensor, vacuum leak.....

maybe a dropped valve guide? they can even shift around if loose I think.

typical inexpensive shop lights put out a lot of green/'cool' light. whitebalance will help , not sure if that's an option on a phone or even all digital cameras.

93 huh - some older soobs had intermittent crank angle sensors - but they would usually fail 'hard' when warmed up. (uh - 93 doesn't have a disty right?) does it have a MAF - those sometimes are intermittent. maybe tap on it and see if there's any change in idle? might need a cleaning too?

well, one possible test for fuel starvation might be to spray some carb cleaner into the intake when it is stumbling/missing. If it seems to smooth out - could be starved for fuel ? kinda wonder what the plugs look like and if they all look the same.

some tires might be less compliant I guess. In the 'old days' nylon belted tires would even take a 'set' and would bump for a few minutes. but, I'm a southern flatlander so - yeah, snow packed in the suspension sounds bad.

um - make sure the stub axle didn't pop partway out?

I assume you mean just for a few weeks? I doubt there would be any permanent damage - but I have no experience doing it. from what i've read, generally speaking, you want a smooth, equal-size internal path to propagate the pressure pulses - it aids in cylinder scavenging and helps with low rpm power. Changes to larger/smaller diameters or odd shapes can cause issues.

any diagnostic codes stored? some older MAFs get intermittent - that might throw the a:f ratio so far off to choke the car. doubt EVERY injector is bad - doesn't mean the ECU isn't confused and keeping the injectors open too much - intermittently.

the risk with turbos - while never zero - goes down quite a bit if they are; A. never associated with a person who abused the car (racing, 'tuned', 'teenagers' ,etc.) B. have been well serviced C. Low-ish miles . But, you would want to ASSURE yourself that it's good buy - as said, turbo or turbo seal failure is gonna be expensive. AT LEAST have a reputable Subaru-experienced mechanic drop the pipe and inspect the turbo's shaft play and look for leaking seals.

original belts are 'probably' getting old for most of us at 60K miles or so. Start with belt replacement and go from there. Get Gates or similar quality - on stuff like belts, brake pads, etc.('consumables') , never ask for the cheapest the store has, it won't last long.

how does the belt look? how many miles?

could be - check ATF level when warm while idling(good idea to run it thru the gears with foot on brake first) - if not idling, it will show high.

not sure I follow, did you SEE bubbles before? anyway, if air in the system is not the problem, then the belt or possibly the crank pulley are suspect. 2011 may have those stretch belts - if the belt has been changed - was the correct type installed?

possible broken ATF pump. If the TC slipped forward, then, if you use the bolts to pull the case up the last 1/2 inch or so, the pump can be cracked.

engine temp sensor may be bad - pretty sure on your car, it is a separate unti from the gauge sender - look for the 2-wire one on the crossover pipe. it may be bad - keeping the car in 'choke' all the time.

you may need to swing by a dealership when they aren't too busy and see if a salesman would do it for you - maybe offer him a coupla lottery scratchers if he's successful? I don't know if there's a big difference from your model, but I had no problem doing it 2-3 times in my wife's 03. does the horn work? Make certain the security system is not enabled. (cycle key 3 times quickly if not sure) make sure you are going past ACC to ON (but not start) , and back past ACC to LOCK (off). I THINK you have to have a ffoot on the brake pedal too so, if the brake pedal switch were bad - it may not work.

very brief glance at a few websites yields a rule of thumb close to - a drop in temp of 45-50*F ill cause a drop in tire pressure of about 4psi. So, if you were in the middle of the 'range' - temps only need to drop 25*F or so to trigger the light. http://www.tirerack.com/winter/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=73

I've been happy using a 78% Nitrogen mix.

dunno the thresholds/hysterisis you're fighting physics when the temp drops a lot; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ideal_gas_law

I have had 2 of the remotes for our 03 OBW go bad. They would work sometimes if I 'pinched' them in the center while pushing buttons. Sometimes the red light would stay on dimly....replacements from a Forum and one from ebay are what I'm using now.

it's cheap if you DIY, might help diagnose - swap axles side-to-side. See if the sound changes - moves to the other side or gets better or worse....? also, sometimes failing wheel bearings will get hotter than their mate on the other side - use infrared remote therm after a highway run. more than - um, maybe consistently 20-30 + degrees difference after several tests I'd guess would be suspect? lift each corner - try to 'rock' wheel up-down - 12 oclock to 6 oclock. any movement is suspect wheel bearing. Compare sides. I had a rear bearing bad in my WRX - moved about 2-3mm. other side was solid. did you do the oil change yourself?

any recent service done? Not unheard-of for the diff to get incorrect fluid put in.

DIY or independent mechanic are both reasonable, and cheaper, options for replacing a starter. you can find some on-line procedures for DIY re-lubrication of the starter but, I have yet to try that myself. an intermediate option 'might' be, to pull the starter and have a local rebuilder re-furb it for you. Probably too inconvenient for many of us.