1 Lucky Texan

CEL on? scan for codes - could be in 'limp' mode?

make sure to NOT use the triangle/arrow on the front of the crank sprocket. MUST use the dash/line on the tab at the back. I suppose a weak tensioner could allow slipping, seems like you'd see/hear something when you cranked it over by hand ???? timing marks on pulleys and tooth-count are your friends. marks on belts are only a guide for initial placement.

is there lot of reddish buildup around the a/c comp? if so, could be your tech is correct. also, I have read of people replacing the a/c comp relay due to it dropping out or being unable to carry enough current due to worn contacts. an intermittent rad fan might cause issues - but you'd probably have overheating too. Double check that they are both running when the a/c is failing. this is a stretch but - might be a good idea to check the crank pulley. It's a 2-piece unit and sometimes can slip if the rubber is degraded. Not common, but possible.

make sure the hose didn't get twisted.

if you decide to use the 'blue wrench' - you may not need to apply much heat at all. I got a SEVERELY rusted/frozen axle to slide out of an Impala with just 10-15 seconds of heat (each - at the 12 oclock and 6 position) from a propane torch. Doesn't need to glow red. I bought an electric impact from Lowes and wish I had gotten one decades ago - if only for removing wheels. Maybe try to borrow an impact? fairtax I think has suggested heating a problem part, then immediately spraying with penetrant (uh - be careful of flames) and letting the cooling part draw the penetrant deeper into the 'interstitial' space. Seems like an awesome idea. I may have done that accidentally when I was fighting that axle.

PCV system clogged? might be a good idea to check oil pressure - maybe the relief valve or a clog is increasing oil pressure?

did the 2.2s get magnetic drain plugs? engine oil right? what size are those parts?

um - 'valet mode' should do it. check the manual or dig around at cars101.com . why not use the fob and the security system?

hmmm - first thing I would do, is try using the security fob - lock and unlock it 2-3 times. Then try to start it. (symptoms don't really make sense - but the security system may prevent driving the car sensing the battery change as tampering.) second suspect might be a fuel pressure leak somewhere....?

when you start it, does it crank longer than before the problem developed? that is, if it originally went; Rrr, Rrr, VRRROOOMMM does it do the same now, or is it ; Rrr, Rrr, Rrr, Rrr, Rrr, Rrr, Rrr, Rrr, VRRROOOMMM---OFF. do you smell fuel? You could try starting with the gas pedal all the way on the floor - that signals the ECU to shut-off fuel. It's the 'clear flood' routine. did the problem begin after refueling or a wreck or any repair/maintenance? is the cel on? if not, scanning for pending codes may still be useful.

not sure, plus, i suppose it's possible for a Denso starter to hang - maybe if the solenoid contacts 'fuse' to the plunger? Not psitive which starter you have - my 06 WRX is m'ishi. anyway - you can find info, threads, complaints about the issue if you do more general searches - and i think I've seen a youtube video of someone tearing-apart a starter and lubing it.

my 06 WRX has been doing this for several years - guaranteed to drag under 40* or so, usually won't if temps are over 50-55*F. Subaru went to a mitsubishi planetary starter in 05-06 i think and i have read several similar complaints. Might be a lube problem. I keep thinking I'll pull mine and try to lube the pinion spindle/axle w'ever but - just lazy i guess.

if you can reach it safely, try loosening it when it's hot from driving. try heating it - even with a propane torch, then spray with a penetrant like Kroil, PB Blaster or even ATF:Acetone 50:50 ,wait, try again, repeat, etc.. be careful of fumes/fire.

you might read here; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/6881-how-to-replace-fuel-temp-sensor/

bummer in a new thread, post you city and ask for a shop recommendation near you. maybe someone will know of a good mechanic.

on-line discount dealers, eBay, Rockauto and even Amazon have served me well overall. Just understand that varying from OEM can 'occasionally' be a problem. no harm in asking for specific opinions here - it has helped me make some tough decisions. Some of the gurus here have used more parts in a week than I will in a lifetime.

It varies, the cheap knock sensors all seem to be well-regarded. some inexpensive timing belt system kits seem to have no-name belts that won't last over 60K. I'd say proceed cautiously, try to use dealers that specialize in car parts and have both 3-4 digit or more number of sales and a rating over 95% or so. Always double check returns policies and if the part is stocked in the western hemisphere - or takes 3 weeks from overseas. be aware, there are on-line dealers that discount OEM parts too - subarugenuineparts.com , fredbeansparts.com , etc. And I have successfully had a local dealer match and 'almost' match prices from on-line dealers when challenged.

Since it seems a Subaru dealership is involved, I'd like to think you are driving on 4 tires all the same brand/model and wear? no - 'donut' spare - right?best thing, find a way to demonstrate the problem with a body shop guy inside. next, you could have a different dealership diagnose the car - document and save you receipt to show the other repair shop. a severe hit to the front side COULD damage the front differential or other internal trans parts. I'd suspect examining axles, lower control arm bushings and even exhaust parts would be in order. you can also contact the insurance company and take the adjuster for a test drive to demo the remaining problems.

normally I'd say yes but, i can't be certain how good the above diagnostics are so, i wouldn't rule-out some other kind of electrical problem. Are you sure you don't hear the pump? It will only cycle on for a few seconds when the key moves to ON. Just long enough to pressure the rails.

could just be time for a starter. They can be removed and tested at some parts stores i think.

do the headlights dim a lot when it fails starting, while cranking? does it always begin cranking or, sometimes, just click? If so, maybe the solenoid contacts are worn in the starter. Try whacking the starter with a piece of 2x4. If the car starts, you just need to rebuild the solenoid. Contact/plunger kits from ebay are affordable. check the cables - sometimes they corrode inside the insulation. Refresh the ground from the neg side of the battery too. Even feeling of them to see if they get hot, wiggling them a little while cranking to listen for changes in crank speed, etc. there are voltage tests you can do while idling, starting, etc. If nothing else, have a parts store double check the charging system - it may not be charging the battery. I'd expect a fuel supply problem would keep you from accelerating or driving up a hill - not just start.

I gotta say, it reads more like a bad battery or a charging issue. does it start normally if jumped? how old is the battery? can you take it, or the car, to a parts store and have them test the charging system?

not certain about black - but good chance those are only used for some type of diagnostic/reprogramming routine. (TCU ?) You may also find 2 green connectors - those are definitely used to cycle relays and fans as a test, and are 'normally' disconnected. someone will have better details.

^^^ tooth count is your friend. that's a shame that Mizumo put those kits out. There's a lot of pressure on suppliers to chase that guy that is flipping a car or claims they MUST have the cheapest parts. If you don't offer 'economy' parts, they take their biz elsewhere.